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Carb problems 340 Carter 9626

Tunis

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Hi,

I have some problems with my Carter 9626 on my 340 engine. The problems started last autumn, when I drove the car and let it idle down when down shifting, the engine would die. The only way to get it started was to give WOT and crank. Otherwise it would just stand there and do nothing. Gas was dripping from the carb at the location shown in the attached picture.

I pulled the carb and changed the gaskets and the needles using a rebuild kit. Went for a drive today and the car is really not fun to drive. It hesitates if I don't give it enough throttle and it stumbles when I let go of the throttle. I drove home to adjust the idle speed screw as it was too high. At idle, with the engine running for some 20 minutes, it runs roughly - going up and down in rpm, hesitating etc. I unscrewed the idle screw some and let it run at what I thought was a good idle speed. After a few minutes it died on its own and gas started dripping from the same location as before.

What is causing this dripping and is it running too rich, that causes these problems with the engine not running as it should?

I really wish to get this fixed now as driving season is approaching fast.

Thank you!
 

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did you do a full rebuild?including adjusting the float levels.also,did you check for any cracks in that area?
 
Thanks for the reply! I only changed the gaskets and needles but I did a full cleanup as it was really in need of one.. I didn't check for cracks and I didn't adjust the float. Will check the float level. The dripping didn't start before it suddenly died at idle.

Thank you!
 
This may seem like I dumb question, but how should the float be set? What I mean is, is there one float level that fits all engines? How do I know when the float level is set to the correct level? Does I only affect the risk of flooding or is there anything else that is affected? I don't know that much about carbs and I know even less about tuning them..

Thankful for all the help!
 
there are two float settings on carter carbs,upward(or closed position for needle and seat)and drop(max hang down position)a rebuild kit will come with references(a bit different for each carb by #)and the kit will also come with a paper tool to measure with.you may be able to go online or get some help from someone here.i am at work all day so i cant help with any #'s.also check for throttle shaft where.could be leaking fuel out where shaft goes into body of carb,and also flooding carb internally.(would cause your problem.see if you have any frount to back or up and down movment where you linkage hooks up.you may have a bit of inward to outward movment(towards carb)but you should have no movement in other directions.
 
Sounds like your float level is too high, or the needle and seat is leaking. Also remove the float and shake it to see if any fuel has leaked into the float chamber. I have seen this happen. Follow the directions in the re-build kit closely. It will say how to set the float level. It works like the water level in your toilet. When the liquid rises to a certain level, the float rises up and shuts off the flow at the needle valve. Good Luck!
 
Got some time to work on my car today. Removed the carb and adjusted the float level. According to my rebuild kit, the float should rest parallel to the casing. There was no other information. I adjusted it to be parallel, by bending the float down a little, which I think means it was too low to begin with. Anyways, the car started up and ran very good and steady. I went for a drive and there was no longer the signs of hesitation that was obvious earlier. When I got home and the engine was warm, I adjusted the idle speed. It now runs like a clock!

Nothing is like the feeling of hearing a Mopar rumble at idle :icon_fU:

Thanks for the help guys!

Per
 
It's always nice to hear when a problem is taken care of. Glad to hear that you've fixed your carb adjustments.

-=Photon440=-
 
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