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carb question

dodgeman

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Hi there. just joined. i have a question to ask, maybe someone can help. just put a 440 motor back in car and tried to start it again tonight. the motor felt like it was going to start, but wouldnt get past starting crank. everything is new and it ran before. is there an electrical switch of some sort on the carb that won't let it start after cranking over. it starts for like a second, and feels like it will start, but does finish. Can anyone help? Also everything is new and/or rebuilt thanks all
 
If getting fuel, can be checked by looking in carb and moving the throttle lever.............Check for spark at the plugs, remove the wire and install a plug then ground to a clean metal area on engine then crank watch for spark, should check all to be sure all are firing. If you have both fuel and spark, possibly timing not correct..To check, make sure timing marks are lined, providing the timing chain cover is the correct one for the application, the rotor must be very close to the number one plug terminal cap, possibly exactly on it or very (slightly) past with dampner at TDC........The previous info are basic needs, engine must have decent compression as well..............
 
One other thing...if it does start, but quits when you release the key (ignition switch goes to 'run' position), could be the ballast resistor. It's on the firewall.
 
check plug wires to be correct for firing order. If distributor was removed check timing
 
One other thing...if it does start, but quits when you release the key (ignition switch goes to 'run' position), could be the ballast resistor. It's on the firewall.

Like he said if it fires then dies after releasing the key from the crank position then it's likely a bad ballast.
 
Just had the coil go bad on my coronet it had weak spark and acted exactly like yours
 
Thanks all. It is getting gas and spark. When I did get it started. The smell of exhaust smelled like u burnt fuel. It does crank get going, then stops when the key is turned back. Some said it could be the resister tried againthis morning same thing. Could it be the starter relay?
 
If you have a service manual, it tells you how to check the ballast resistor. Real simple thing to check, or replace. Just don't get one at autozone. Their's have a habit of going south real quick. Get good 'ones', meaning get two, one for the glovebox. Those resistors can put you on the side of the road.

Be sure the wiring is in good shape, going to, and from it, too!

Sure, it's possible on the relay, but more likely that resistor. Cheap insurance at any rate.

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Dang! 1000 posts! Getting mouthy in my old age.
 
Everything your saying screams ballast, put a jumper wire across the ballast and see what happens. The resistor allows direct voltage to the coil while cranking then once the key is returned to run it energizes the ballast meaning..... bad ballast, no run unless cranking. Be positive that the ballast isn't the problem before moving on by trying it with a ju.mper wire
 
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