Center links with intentional bends in them?

[fullmetaljacket]

Who here runs a custom center link with intentional bends in them to clear obstacles underneath?
If the link is fabricated to have a few bends in it to clear stuff and has the correct length and OD of the original, will it work?

 

[j-c-c-62]

Yes, only performance downsides might be is it still stiff/strong enough with the bends irrespective of the OD, etc and is it able/likely to catch more road debris.
This is assuming the link ends are in the correct position.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Yes, only performance downsides might be is it still stiff/strong enough with the bends irrespective of the OD, etc and is it able/likely to catch more road debris.
This is assuming the link ends are in the correct position.

Road debris? It hides behind the oil pan sump mostly. Yes the links would end up exactly in the original positions.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Road debris? It hides behind the oil pan sump mostly. Yes the links would end up exactly in the original positions.

So "might be" not in your case.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

440 source has dropped center links for 62-70 B bodies.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

440 source has dropped center links for 62-70 B bodies.

Yes, but the 440 dropped link is longer by an inch compared to my stocker. I got one brand new and haven't touched it other than measuring.
I'm asking because with my new oil pan came the new problem of clearance issues. It is deeper on all sides aside from the sump. That being said, If I fabricated part of the link in chromoly 1" OD X .120 wall while using the link ends, I would need to make some bends to enable it to clear certain obstacles such as one header tube and the oil pan itself.
I know that bends make for a stronger tube, but what other dynamic and torsional forces should I be concerned with?

I'm going to keep y'all posted as progress or regress happens.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

The dropped link is obviously longer than the stocker, in their own picture. In the description they say they are identical to stock except for the drop. Go figure.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Yes, but the 440 dropped link is longer by an inch compared to my stocker. I got one brand new and haven't touched it other than measuring.
I'm asking because with my new oil pan came the new problem of clearance issues. It is deeper on all sides aside from the sump. That being said, If I fabricated part of the link in chromoly 1" OD X .120 wall while using the link ends, I would need to make some bends to enable it to clear certain obstacles such as one header tube and the oil pan itself.
I know that bends make for a stronger tube, but what other dynamic and torsional forces should I be concerned with?

I'm going to keep y'all posted as progress or regress happens.

Fabricated meaning any welding on a non-redundant critical CM suspension/steering component will at the minimum should require final proper heat treating, or at the least use a lesser steel and gain back your needed physical properties thru a more robust design. The loading mostly on a tube here is only compression/tension, and any bends or load paths off axis begin to initiate bending loads. I don't see torsion loads as a concern here. Your noted material choice seems undersized IMO. The length of the item greatly determines buckling factors, IE "slenderness", length to diameter ratios.

The link "length" centers is supposed to mimic the distance of the LCA pivot centers to reduce among other things, bump steer.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Jcc62. I can not argue against your words. You make some really solid points.
As a note, the two links below are the new 440 source and Mancini distributed dropped link and my own lightweight link made with Chromoly 1"OD X 120 wall tubing. Never a problem for the last 15 years or so. Then again, there isn't much of any bends in it for the most part. Never thought that it needed any kind of heat treating.

Take note of the difference in lengths below. Stock OEM specs they claim? I don't think so. mine is to the hair as far as stock measurements.

I'm going to make a drawing diagram to show an example of what I want to do. But you have some really valid points.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Jcc62. I can not argue against your words. You make some really solid points.
As a note, the two links below are the new 440 source and Mancini distributed dropped link and my own lightweight link made with Chromoly 1"OD X 120 wall tubing. Never a problem for the last 15 years or so. Then again, there isn't much of any bends in it for the most part. Never thought that it needed any kind of heat treating.
Take note of the difference in lengths. Stock OEM specs they claim? I don't think so.

I'm going to make a drawing diagram to show an example of what I want to do. But you have some really valid points.

View attachment 1825515

Probably should have asked previously, what are the diameters of the solid links pictured.
That length difference is puzzling.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Probably should have asked previously, what are the diameters of the solid links pictured.
That length difference is puzzling.

I'm out of town at the moment, but will take measurements as soon as I return on Wednesday.
Yes, the difference is almost a whole inch from center hole to center hole.

 

[weedburner]

How about bending the longer one for more offset to reduce it's length?

Grant

 

[fullmetaljacket]

How about bending the longer one for more offset to reduce it's length?

Grant

Hard to bend solid bar as apposed to tubing.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Hard to bend solid bar as apposed to tubing.

However, being more than likely a 1020? grade steel, heating it and letting it air cool after bending should be acceptable.
It appears to be OEM a forging?
It doesn't have to be pretty as long as bends are not abrupt, no pronounced stress risers are introduced, and the correct dimensions are achieved.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

However, being more than likely a 1020? grade steel, heating it and letting it air cool after bending should be acceptable.
It appears to be OEM a forging?
It doesn't have to be pretty as long as bends are not abrupt, no pronounced stress risers are introduced, and the correct dimensions are achieved.

Nah. Not enough length to enable the bends needed for achieving the clearances not to mention the harder it would be to bend solid bar without heating. It would have to start with a fresh center tube with a 1" OD or 1-1/16th OD.

 

[weedburner]

If I didn't want to bend to shorten, I would cut it in half, chuck the pieces in my lathe, and turn them down just before the bends with pilots to accept a piece of tubing of the appropriate thickness. Basically use the original bends and just replace the straight solid center with a shorter piece of straight tubing.

Grant

 

[Tony Tee]

Hard to bend solid bar as apposed to tubing.

I bought a used centerlink. At a swap meet for cheap, because it was bent. And I straightened it out on my cheesy hydraulic press. It wasn't at all difficult to straighten. In other words, easy!