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Changing 4 spd Hurst Shifter arm in 69rr

68bee70rr

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Does anyone know the secret in getting the Shifter arm out (not the two bolt, the slide in)? I put some liquid wrench where the shifter arm goes into the mechanism. I then put filler gage blade between the shifter and the clip on the drivers side and pulled a muscle in my shoulder. I don't think it should be this hard to remove. Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Brad
 
Sounds like you are doing everything right. Are you sure you have pushed the feeeler gauge (.010 I think) down enough to release the clips? They do sometimes come out hard after 44 years. Wiggle it back and forth while pulling.
 
Its my understanding the clip only works on the drivers side. They put the same clip on the other side but there is no place for the shifter on that side to catch the clip. I pulled and wiggled back and forth. I am having no luck. Stubborn!
 
The catches are only on the drivers side. It will come out. Maybe get someone to help pull while you tap the feeler gauge in? I would hate to hear that you pulled any more muscles over a shifter handle.
 
Does anyone know the secret in getting the Shifter arm out (not the two bolt, the slide in)? I put some liquid wrench where the shifter arm goes into the mechanism. I then put filler gage blade between the shifter and the clip on the drivers side and pulled a muscle in my shoulder. I don't think it should be this hard to remove. Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Brad

this is a child like drawing that i hope helps. if not and it probably won't since it's so crude ... PM me with you phone and i'll call and explain.

how to remove hurst shifter in a mopar non-bolt in.jpg
 
if you are on the drivers side there is a flat spring clip between the shifter housing and the shifter on the drivers side. the spring clip has a nub that fits into a hole in the shifter. you stick the feeler gauge in between the housing and the shifter from the top left down to the center of the bottom of the housing/shifter while keeping the feeler guage tight up against the shifter, (shouldn't be hard to do), then pivot the feeler gauge from left to right while keeping the bottom point of the feeler gauge centered in the housing so the feeler guage lines up vertically with the shifter/housing, then pull up on the shifter. it should pull out very easily. if it's hard you are doing it wrong :) / don't have the spring clip released.

the object is to slide the feeler gauge in between the spring clip and the shfter to nudge the spring clip out of the hole in the shifter. Don't go straight down. Go in past it from top left to center below the nub on the clip from your left to right then slide between the nub pushing it out of the shifter.

hope this feeble attempt to help works
 
No not yet. Haven't made it back to the garage yet. I am anxious and will 2morrow
 
Here`s a few pics, Look at the pencil head. That`s the tabs that have to be moved out of the hole in the handle ,but any shifter handle i`ve removed has had the tabs on both sides, like this one. Two feeler guages are required , one between the clip & the handle on both sides & if it`s factory, the handle will lift straight up & out. Good Luck
 

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Very helpful. I've been doing the filler gage on just the drivers side. Yes its factory. That explains why I have been having such a hard time getting it out. I will try both sides tomorrow, Again thanks 6pktgo, and to everyone else with the helpful comments.
 
IMG_20130305_200727_996.jpgIMG_20130305_200706_304.jpg Here are the pics completed. Took me just a couple of minutes to complete with the filler gauge on each side. Thanks for all the comments guys! You've been a great help.
 
congrats on completing the project and thanks to 6pktgo as i'd completely forgotten this had to be done on both sides!
 
Glad to hear, You Got It!!

Brad : That`s great that it worked out. Just a quick question. What is the 4 digit number on the side of your reverse lever, on the mechanism? I see your grip is awfully close to the dash! When Mopar introduced the pistol grip in 1970, they made the mechanism levers noticably longer then previous years & stamped 7174 on the reverse lever, for identification. They did this because the pistol grip handle ,was so much taller, then previous handles & if you have the 69 mechanism, you will be smashing your knuckles against your dash board, on a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd. And it doesn`t stop there, the shifter rods are different from 69 to 70, again to work with the 7174 box & pistol grip handle. Try it and see ,but if your knuckles end up skinned ( they probably won`t as your dash is padded & on the 70 ,it`s hard plastic), you will need to change the mechanism & rods. The first pic is 69 rods ,the second is 70.
 

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congrats on completing the project and thanks to 6pktgo as i'd completely forgotten this had to be done on both sides!

I don't remember having to use a feeler gauge on both sides either. See - that's what happens with old age.
 
Nothing like a pistol grip to row the gears with! I always felt the press in handle had to much slop in it. I pull out the press in stuff and drill a couple holes and bolt it in. I also drill and tap the housing and add the positive stop bolts.
 
There isn't a tab on both sides. Moot point now but what I do is push down on the handle to make sure it's all the way bottomed out then insert the feeler gauge. Some oil helps too.
 
is your mail box full 68bee70RR? iv been trying to reach ya for a while..pm if u can thanks
 
There isn't a tab on both sides. Moot point now but what I do is push down on the handle to make sure it's all the way bottomed out then insert the feeler gauge. Some oil helps too.

Yeah - I just removed my handle from the Charger last night, and it only took one feeler gauge on the drivers side. I guess I'm not so forgetful after all.
 
Correct all three of the rods are different on a B-Body from a 68-69 to a 70 and not just the reverse one

Brad : That`s great that it worked out. Just a quick question. What is the 4 digit number on the side of your reverse lever, on the mechanism? I see your grip is awfully close to the dash! When Mopar introduced the pistol grip in 1970, they made the mechanism levers noticably longer then previous years & stamped 7174 on the reverse lever, for identification. They did this because the pistol grip handle ,was so much taller, then previous handles & if you have the 69 mechanism, you will be smashing your knuckles against your dash board, on a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd. And it doesn`t stop there, the shifter rods are different from 69 to 70, again to work with the 7174 box & pistol grip handle. Try it and see ,but if your knuckles end up skinned ( they probably won`t as your dash is padded & on the 70 ,it`s hard plastic), you will need to change the mechanism & rods. The first pic is 69 rods ,the second is 70.
 
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