charging issue

[funnycar]

having a issue where my alternator is not putting out charge.i have the one terminal
i put on the 6 o cklock fld location and nothing on the 9 postion.parts store said alternator passed and they said has a 2 wire hook that goes to bother terminals.
do i run a jumper kinda not sure what to do .
goes to 63 dodge polara factory loom.
thank you

 

[Red63440]

The extra field gets grounded to the case, the main lead for the battery and other field connect to your harness.

 

[Moparnocar]

After that, make sure regulator is grounded, and you have close to battery voltage at the IGN terminal. Mine was 1 volt lower! Bad fuseable link

 

[funnycar]

thank you guys .give it a shot first thing tomorrow

 

[Nacho-RT74]

That's a 70/71 roundback dual field modified to work as a single field alt. The 9 position brush must be grounded with a metallic washer down the screw, hence why terminal was clipped off to prevent you conect your field wire there what handles positive.

 

[Red63440]

That's a 70/71 roundback dual field modified to work as a single field alt. The 9 position brush must be grounded with a metallic washer down the screw, hence why terminal was clipped off to prevent you conect your field wire there what handles positive.

So you are saying that the 9 o’clock terminal is already grounded internally?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Not internally, but externally. While the 6 o'clock brush it gets an isolation washer down the screw ( it is visible there ), the 9 o'clock should get a metallic washer instead to ground it propperlly, emulating the single field alt system, where the brush is directly attached to the alt case at the opposite spot.

While that brush is propperly grounded and the field gets the voltage coming from regulator ( green wire ), the alt should work.

Regulator gets ignition voltage on blue wire and must be also propperly grounded to work.

of course the black wire at stud must be propperly conected everywhere between alt and ammeter ( good bulkhead conection and amm studs ) to get the alt correctly feeding everything. You could get the alt working but power going anywhere if the bulkhead path is not in good conditions along with ammeter conections. And that could make you think alt is not working, when really is.

You can also full feed the alt brush with batt power to check the alt is working but maybe not the regulator.

 

[Red63440]

So because of the metallic washer no further grounding is needed on his case. He will connect it right out of the box to his existing harness.

Let me ask this, if you wanted to update your early system to a newer style electronic voltage regulator what would you have to do with the alternator in the OP photo?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I can't see the metallic washer down the 9 position brush, but I'm assuming is there, because the isolation washer is way more visible. And if wasn't there wouldn't be a reason to clip off the brush prong to keep safe from connect the field wire there saving from a short as soon you put the key in RUN.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Let me ask this, if you wanted to update your early system to a newer style electronic voltage regulator what would you have to do with the alternator in the OP photo?

View attachment 1116978

You edited the reply after I replied last one.

Having the dual field alt and wanting to upgrade to the stock electronic setup used since 70 just will need to replace the brush ( due the cut prong ), propperly isolated with its isolation washer, get the later regulator and pigtail, and get the extra blue wire for the dual field wire setup running up to alt.

couple of splices, reg pigtail, one extra blue wire, and reg

and of course as mentioned, replace the clipped brush with a new one and install the propper washer

assuming the brush case ( left set on pic ) is not damaged of course. just brush and washer should be enough to get it back to dual field setup

 

[Red63440]

I’m no electronic guru so I would need to purchase a different alternator which already is built in the configuration I need.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I’m no electronic guru so I would need to purchase a different alternator which already is built in the configuration I need.

added more info on the last reply.

On the dual field setup both brushes need to be isolated from chassis because the alt fields circuit running throught the alt rotor is closed to ground through the regulator since is the regulator what controls this ground circuit side, hence why both are/need to be isolated. On single field setup the ground is constant and regulator varies the positive side of the circuit, and the grounded brush doesn't get any isolation housing but directly attached to alt case

On both cases the green wire indicates the regulated side of the circuit... positive on single field, negative on dual field

I'm predicting critics to this reply in

3

2

1
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[Red63440]

I have never had an alternator apart and don’t have the needed parts. I had purchased a slightly larger amperage alternator but it’s the same as shown in the original post.

Thanks for sharing the info, greatly appreciated.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

there are roundback alternators casted to accept both setups which can be correctly matched with just the required brush setup per the car needs, removing the other one.

for example on this one assembled to dual field setup, can get removed the 9 position brush and install this brush on the 3 position and call it done ( correctly done ) for single field setup

 

[funnycar]

well no luck on what i thought was grounding case to the 9 location pin.im sure im not doing someting correctly im sorry im not good at this .

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Jump out both regulator wires. This full field the alt and will discard the regulator.

Check also the black wire is going throught the bulkhead with nice and clean terminals.

 

[funnycar]

found out the ballast res wasn't getting 12 volts cause it wasn't wired to voltage regulator correctly
works great now.
thanks to all your input

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Ballast even linked to the same circuit ( ign 1 ) is not related to the charging system.

HOWEVER if you for whatever reason weren't getting 12 volts at regulator blue wire ( &/or reg is not propperly chassis grounded ), it won't work and won't feed the alt field, as you noticed.