Clearance issues with 7 blade "hemi" clutch fan and my radiator. Need another fan choice.

[Sinitro]

Check out various internet sellers for an FC-28 short height clutch fan made
by TRW and sold as an OE replacement for Mopars. It also has a closed hub mounting
like the original Mopar OE clutches unlike the universal slots as found on the Hayden
Jaguar parts...

Just my $0.02...

 

[Nxcoupe]

Check out various internet sellers for an FC-28 short height clutch fan made
by TRW and sold as an OE replacement for Mopars. It also has a closed hub mounting
like the original Mopar OE clutches unlike the universal slots as found on the Hayden
Jaguar parts...

Just my $0.02...

Got a link to somewhere that sells it? Google search produced nada. Thanks.

 

[Sinitro]

Got a link to somewhere that sells it? Google search produced nada. Thanks.

I bought my last (2) on E-Bay for $75 each...
They show up randomly...
Most sellers have no clue what they are.

Just my $0.02....

 

[52 Bone Speed]

Appreciate the Great advice here!!. Need fan advice.... I'm sold on the Hayden shortie, but what's a good fan option with this clutch and fitment challenge? It has to be narrower than the "Hemi" re-pop 7 blade I bought which has about 3" depth to each blade and about 20" diameter. I only have about 3.25" of clearance from the back of the radiator fins to the snout of the water pump and about 4" to the belts for the alt and the damper pulleys. I want at least 5 blades and wonder if the steel 7 blade 18" has less depth blades than what just took me out. If I can't find a good fit I'll consider removing the clutch but would prefer one.

 

[440 4 speed]

Why are so many people changing what the factory did for ever. If things were that bad Chrysler might have gone bankrupt! As I have have mentioned in different posts, we have stock numbered radiators in our cars. Did 3 core a 22 inch, doesn’t have a shroud, runs fine. Have a completely stock original 26” shroud and clutch fan again runs very well.
They have been run in 100 F.
A fellow that used to have a rad shop years ago, told me that if you change your coolant every two years things would last longer. (This was in daily drivers at the time). If the whole system is clean/flushed things should be fine.
These are my experiences.

 

[68BabyBlue]

Why are so many people changing what the factory did for ever. If things were that bad Chrysler might have gone bankrupt! As I have have mentioned in different posts, we have stock numbered radiators in our cars. Did 3 core a 22 inch, doesn’t have a shroud, runs fine. Have a completely stock original 26” shroud and clutch fan again runs very well.
They have been run in 100 F.
A fellow that used to have a rad shop years ago that if you change your coolant every two years things would last longer. (This was in daily drivers at the time). If the whole system is clean/flushed things should be fine.
These are my experiences.

I put over 150,000 miles on my two 1960s Imperials when I was daily driving them in the 90s. Both cars were completely stock, with re-cored original radiators. Never had a cooling problem, even when I ran the '62 in New York City traffic in July.

 

[52 Bone Speed]

I'm not against using an OEM style radiator, shroud and fan set up but I don't have an OEM rad and not even sure if they are less deep towards the fan. If they are that would be a plus, but I really don't know where to buy one or if we are talking about rebuilding a 57 year old rad? I guess they make reproductions?? When I put the reproduction hemi clutch fan in it didn't fit, buy maybe it would if I had OEM sized radiator?? This car was originally a small block car and now it has a 440 so pretty sure the OEM rad that fits my small block core support may not be enough anyway. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel so to speak, but this car is very far from it's original 318 born day. I like the performance of an aluminum rad, shroud, and clutch fan. Just gotta get one to fit well enough to work. But I do appreciate those that keep as much stock style as well. But this car isn't that.

 

[Nxcoupe]

I used one the aluminum ones off ebay that they paint black and use stock appearing tanks on. It fit fine but I had the wrong viscous clutch on it and it didn't fit correctly. I went to megaparts and way overpaid for a repo fan clutch that worked. No regrets, at the point they said they had one,I was at my wits end and would have paid anything to get it right. With new fan shroud, it works perfectly. Stays cool with the ac blowin cold.

 

[moparedtn]

I have a Griffin 3" aluminum "exact fit" 26" radiator in Fred the GTX; this took some modifications, since the
car came with a 22" from the factory (which was wholly undersized for the car, given the engine power increase, etc.).
I run it with a factory shroud and a straight drive 8-blade fan from Summit that some folks on here (FBBO) recommended;
it's a very good quality fan for the money.

No clutch (not even the famed "shorty" (Jaguar) one from Hayden) was short enough, though - so I chose the 8-blade
direct drive fan along with a small spacer to get the fan-to-radiator, as well as the fan blade to shroud spacing, correct.
I even went to the extent of opening up the radiator support to fully utilize the 26" radiator width.
My thread on the whole exercise:
Cooling issues - and a weird question

 

[52 Bone Speed]

Alrighty, I ordered a new rad (which should be 1/2" less deep than my current damaged one), an 18" 6 blade fan (with blades not as deep as the big hemi one that took me out), shorty clutch and an OEM style plastic shroud. It'll be about 2 weeks till I get time to mock them up for fitment checks, but I have high hopes and renewed confidence thanks to y'all here and reading how you navigated the struggles.

 

[not so famous bob]

I transitioned from a not impressive 4 blade 18" steel fan with no clutch to a 7 blade "Hemi" repop fan with a thermo clutch I got new at a Mopar swap meet for like $100. I have a 26" aluminum radiator and a 1975 RV 440 motor. There was almost no clearance, but I did some bending on the blades and thought it was all good. It was moving lots of air even though I don't have a shroud. Temps stayed at 180. I was happy. Drove it 200 miles. Then I got on the go petal pretty sporty and the fan flexed a blade into the rad and stuffed it open. Dang it man!!
Today I looked for 26" aluminum rads and only the $1000 ones with two electric fans seem like they will clear to my water pump snout. And they suck up 2x the amps of a single fan. Single fan units seemed likely to not clear the pump.
So now I'm back to maybe just going back to a regular fan and hopefully on my clutch which survived. Is there a fan that has more clearance then a hemi fan but still flows good air? I'd probably be OK with a flex fan like I had many many years ago as well. It's not a numbers car but it does go to local shows etc. 1968 Dodge Coronet.

I have an 18'' fan with a jaguare type clutch , bitch to install (clutch is very short) , but have clearance on a 28x19 griffin 2 core 1 1/4'' tube rad....68 barracuda<small engine bay...
others on here can probly tell the exact number of the clutch . I forget t the moment ...

 

[Butch Harley]

52 bone speed what's the reason for the engine tilt? Ever had front end damage to core support?

 

[mopar 3 B]

Why are so many people changing what the factory did for ever. If things were that bad Chrysler might have gone bankrupt! As I have have mentioned in different posts, we have stock numbered radiators in our cars. Did 3 core a 22 inch, doesn’t have a shroud, runs fine. Have a completely stock original 26” shroud and clutch fan again runs very well.
They have been run in 100 F.
A fellow that used to have a rad shop years ago, told me that if you change your coolant every two years things would last longer. (This was in daily drivers at the time). If the whole system is clean/flushed things should be fine.
These are my experiences.

Same here. But you know it was in that rag mag that's main purpose is selling aftermarket. It's s big trap to buy more not needed stuff. Some have figured this out.

Original post stated 75 rv motor and engine size. No mention of car, water pump housing.
I don't think I ever have seen an original hemi with a clutch fan of any type. The angles some will use to sell things.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Same here. But you know it was in that rag mag that's main purpose is selling aftermarket. It's s big trap to buy more not needed stuff. Some have figured this out.

Original post stated 75 rv motor and engine size. No mention of car, water pump housing.
I don't think I ever have seen an original hemi with a clutch fan of any type. The angles some will use to sell things.

The later hemis had clutch fans.

 

[JPrusinows]

The later hemis had clutch fans.

Hayden shorty jaguar clutch and factory fan. Even fit behind a max cooling core

 

[Nxcoupe]

Hayden shorty jaguar clutch and factory fan. Even fit behind a max cooling core

Why did you quote me?

 

[52 Bone Speed]

52 bone speed what's the reason for the engine tilt? Ever had front end damage to core support?

Turns out the engine tilt was not really engine tilt. It's that the radiator is wider than the original for the 318 engine and the larger rad top tank welds ride against the core support and the radiator in turn is angled back slightly at the top. I actually shimmed it to take up the bolt gap on this latest refit project instead of cutting the core support.

 

[52 Bone Speed]

Alrighty, I ordered a new rad (which should be 1/2" less deep than my current damaged one), an 18" 6 blade fan (with blades not as deep as the big hemi one that took me out), shorty clutch and an OEM style plastic shroud. It'll be about 2 weeks till I get time to mock them up for fitment checks, but I have high hopes and renewed confidence thanks to y'all here and reading how you navigated the struggles.

Finished install yesterday. In the end, I'm happy so I'll post what worked FOR ME. Everything fits great and she's staying at 180 degrees in 97 degree heat.
Parts:
26" Wide Core Aluminum Radiator 375 For Dodge Plymouth Mopar V8 1968-1973 AT/MT
US $137.59

Derale Black 18" Standard Rotation Mechanical Cooling Fan Dual Clutch Pattern
US $69.82

OER Reproduction Fan Shrouds 2998326
Part Number: OER-2998326 $129.99
I used the clutch which I already had. It's not a short shortie, and it's not too long either. It's snout is about 1"

The only real work I had to do this time was: Cut the 90 degree aluminum rails on the rad that the shroud is supposed to bolt to. Turn them to flange outward (new shroud mount tabs are just wider) and TIG weld the 90 flange rails back to the radiator. Drill flange for the new shroud. Installed it all and the clearances are just where I like them. There is a minor gap at the shroud sides but it's fine for now. I'm happy and only spent like $300 for the whole setup.

 

[RJRENTON]

What radiator do you have, a generic cross flow style?

Everyone seems to have the same issues......close clearance from front face of clutch unit to radiator core.......WHY DOES EVERYONE installs an aluminum *** core radiator whose centerline encroaches on the engine side of the core support. This forces you to use a cheese ball Hayden clutch....that just looks incorrect. WHY NOT duplicate the origional MOPAR HD cooling option.......a # 2998956 GlenRay max cooling radiator (or equilivant to your car) then use the TORQUE DRIVE CLUTCH, # 2806070, Hemi ot equal 7 blade aluminum fan, # 2863216 with shroud and appropriate water pump sheave, #2946716. Almost everyone complaints about the price ,...but after all the: this try this, try that combination, you'll be further ahead and have a better performing system, rather than spending the $$$ up front.....it's not "cheaper".....in the long run......but real cost is a perceived amount.......just my thoughts.......
BOB RENTON

 

[440 4 speed]

Everyone seems to have the same issues......close clearance from front face of clutch unit to radiator core.......WHY DOES EVERYONE installs an aluminum *** core radiator whose centerline encroaches on the engine side of the core support. This forces you to use a cheese ball Hayden clutch....that just looks incorrect. WHY NOT duplicate the origional MOPAR HD cooling option.......a # 2998956 GlenRay max cooling radiator (or equilivant to your car) then use the TORQUE DRIVE CLUTCH, # 2806070, Hemi ot equal 7 blade aluminum fan, # 2863216 with shroud and appropriate water pump sheave, #2946716. Almost everyone complaints about the price ,...but after all the: this try this, try that combination, you'll be further ahead and have a better performing system, rather than spending the $$$ up front.....it's not "cheaper".....in the long run......but real cost is a perceived amount.......just my thoughts.......
BOB RENTON

I really don’t enjoy beating a (dead horse). I have commented on this before.
I usually only comment on what I know. If not I relate what I have heard from people I respect.
Our personal experiences.
1993 we decided to attend a TDC Meet in Aurora Missouri.
Our son has a 67 383 PP1 Charger white hat 383 auto. 22” rad. We had it redone locally and had it 3 cored. 4 blade stock fan. No shroud. Engine was just finished.

We had our L code 67 auto Charger, 26 inch rad. 4 blade fan, no shroud. Pulling a crank up camper trailer.
We went through Kansas City, sat in long line ups to cross the river. We drove in heat around 100 degrees. Neither car overheated.
Many years ago a very well known rad shop owner said that the vast majority of overheating problems were caused not changing the antifreeze often enough. Block gets partially plugged. His recommendation at that time was. Use distilled water and change the coolant every 3 years. Flush the block.
This applied to daily drivers.