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Clearance issues with 7 blade "hemi" clutch fan and my radiator. Need another fan choice.

Just wondering who would drive a 750hp 1969 Coronet on the street? Doubling the hp doesn’t make sense, especially if you go on long road trips.
I do not have any idea what changes are needed to the cooling system when a lot of modifications are done.
I can only tell you what has worked for us.
 
To answer the original question.

GM fan clutch mounting is the same as Chrys. There might be a 'short' clutch that will do the job.
 
No one has answered my question in post 51.

What did your R/T have for a rad? Did you have antifreeze in it?
Let’s try to make it simpler 275x15 on a 8 inch rim. 3:23 gears. Factory 4 speed or auto. No a/c. Driving at 2600 rpm.

bone stock from the factory , was young and didn't have the knowledge to change anything , OR THE $ , after buying the car !!-----LOL
 
Captan Jean-Luc Picard was muttering to himself, the famous or infamous expression: MAIRD.......a French expression for __________ translate yourself.........a phrase I've used myself....frequently........
BOB RENTON

myself ,I couldn't stand Piccard , he used to spout off things that were wrong with America , and was dam Frenchman !!
Never got into the second or third startrek shows either ...
 
It's obvious that you cannot do the required calculations....
.perhaps you don't understand what's involved.... given dentical circumstances and conditions nothing will.be different....explain your conditions....and numbers ..Your tirn....
BOB RENTON



.

Get real dude , I`ve had 100% agree with me in my statement ... except you ! Life experiance is a great teacher , u must not have any , DONE WITH THIS !
 
Or just do what I've been preaching. Stock 26" radiator with stock fan clutch. It's affordable and it works.
That’s what my ‘68 Bee came with. Works great, no clearance or cooling issues.
 
generally a lot cooler up there than here , 383`s didn't have as big problem here as a 440 either .. had both ..
My Bee has factory air and I lived in the Mojave desert for 30+ years where it was 100+ every day from mid June to end of September. The factory system with 3 row radiator, 3” pitch fan, and oem fan clutch got the job done. It amazes me how many guys try to “reengineer “ these cooling systems with aftermarket crap and then end up with all sorts of cooling issues. BTW it’s been in the 90’s here lately. As for the 440 argument, my dad had both a ‘70 and a ‘73 imperial in the same desert town. Both 440’s with every option you could think of. Weighed 200lbs more than 3 Honda civics of the day. Factory 3 row radiators, fan clutch , and 7 blade fans. Never overheated even in 100+ weather.
 
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To answer the original question.

GM fan clutch mounting is the same as Chrys. There might be a 'short' clutch that will do the job.
I have run a “re-drilled” GM Eaton thermostatic fan clutch in my 383 until I could find a NOS mopar one. Length was same, but re-drilling was a PITA. I think it was off a Buick. Looked identical to the mopar one except for bolt pattern.
 
My Bee has factory air and I lived in the Mojave desert for 30+ years where it was 100+ every day from mid June to end of September. The factory system with 3 row radiator, 3” pitch fan, and oem fan clutch got the job done. It amazes me how many guys try to “reengineer “ these cooling systems with aftermarket crap and then end up with all sorts of cooling issues. BTW it’s been in the 90’s here lately. As for the 440 argument, my dad had both a ‘70 and a ‘73 imperial in the same desert town. Both 440’s with every option you could think of. Weighed 200lbs more than 3 Honda civics of the day. Factory 3 row radiators, fan clutch , and 7 blade fans. Never overheated even in 100+ weather.

still doesn't compare with twice the h.p. being cooled , on a stock system or ,
dont mean squat to a bone stock a 1969 440 that was barely adequate back in the day in heavy city traffic in the summer time , back in 1969 !
those big cars were actually lower h.p. versions too .
 
still doesn't compare with twice the h.p. being cooled , on a stock system or ,
dont mean squat to a bone stock a 1969 440 that was barely adequate back in the day in heavy city traffic in the summer time , back in 1969 !
those big cars were actually lower h.p. versions too .
The OEM cooling system is/was designed for a given set of conditions. Your premise of doubling the engine's output is faulty in that the engine IS NOT producing the "published hp output" all the time or 100%, but a smaller percentage. That number is the extra cooling loads. What IF the engine produced 1000 hp. Would the cooling system need to be 3x or 4x bigger?? Circular reasoning does not apply. Show us your calculations to support your premise....not guesses......
BOB RENTON
 
The OEM cooling system is/was designed for a given set of conditions. Your premise of doubling the engine's output is faulty in that the engine IS NOT producing the "published hp output" all the time or 100%, but a smaller percentage. That number is the extra cooling loads. What IF the engine produced 1000 hp. Would the cooling system need to be 3x or 4x bigger?? Circular reasoning does not apply. Show us your calculations to support your premise....not guesses......
BOB RENTON

like I said everyone that commented to me agreed with me , EXCEPT YOU , real life experiance is the best teacher to me , not you or anybody elses theory about formulas or B>S>

you ever around pipeline engines ? Hoards of low speed h.p. , and a radiator that has to be hauled on a wide load semi ...
 
like I said everyone that commented to me agreed with me , EXCEPT YOU , real life experiance is the best teacher to me , not you or anybody elses theory about formulas or B>S>

you ever around pipeline engines ? Hoards of low speed h.p. , and a radiator that has to be hauled on a wide load semi ...
Your situation apples to you...only....pipe line engines of what size and hp?.....temperatures and pressures and volumes involved? Size of radiator hauled on wide load semi...means NOTHING without NUMBERS....sizes...dimensions, materials of construction.....Have you ever been around high temperature high pressure heat recover heat exchangers??? For instance, heat recovery heat exchangers with 2000 degrees wast gas (volume and composition of heat to be recovered) to 1500 degrees preheated temperatures at 150 psi pressure, flowing 3000 cfm flow using Inconel 800HT alloy stainless steel pipe and plate, to ASME Section VIII, Division 2, fired/unfired pressure vessels?? It is highly likely that you do not understand thermodynamics or to be able to perform the required calculations. Your argument is about apples and oranges and doesn’t apply to your reasoning. If you want to debate qualifications or design and installation experience, send me a PM. Your initial comment "everone that commented to me agreed" except me is correct......how many or those people you polled, understand the principles of thermodynamics.....I would guess zero. Premises without substantiantion is nothing more than guesses or hearsay.......punt......
BOB RENTON
 
Your situation apples to you...only....pipe line engines of what size and hp?.....temperatures and pressures and volumes involved? Size of radiator hauled on wide load semi...means NOTHING without NUMBERS....sizes...dimensions, materials of construction.....Have you ever been around high temperature high pressure heat recover heat exchangers??? For instance, heat recovery heat exchangers with 2000 degrees wast gas (volume and composition of heat to be recovered) to 1500 degrees preheated temperatures at 150 psi pressure, flowing 3000 cfm flow using Inconel 800HT alloy stainless steel pipe and plate, to ASME Section VIII, Division 2, fired/unfired pressure vessels?? It is highly likely that you do not understand thermodynamics or to be able to perform the required calculations. Your argument is about apples and oranges and doesn’t apply to your reasoning. If you want to debate qualifications or design and installation experience, send me a PM. Your initial comment "everone that commented to me agreed" except me is correct......how many or those people you polled, understand the principles of thermodynamics.....I would guess zero. Premises without substantiantion is nothing more than guesses or hearsay.......punt......
BOB RENTON

RR_Trust_Me.png
 
Since the radiator is being replaced, install the clutch and fan, hang the shroud over the fan/clutch, then lower the new radiator in place onto the rad support bolts. Easy. Then attach the shroud to the radiator.
"Easy..." hahaha
I've done a few of these on my motor with just that method. The non-easy part with a tight clearance radiator/fan clutch combo is getting the bolts lined up and in with the radiator in the way!

One trick I do is use a shortened wooden chopstick or dowel in one of the holes to hang it in place so you can then let go with one hand, insert 3 of the bolts, then break the wood stick off with 1/4" protruding so I can grab it with needle nose pliers and remove, then insert the last bolt.
 
Finished install yesterday. In the end, I'm happy so I'll post what worked FOR ME. Everything fits great and she's staying at 180 degrees in 97 degree heat.
Parts:
26" Wide Core Aluminum Radiator 375 For Dodge Plymouth Mopar V8 1968-1973 AT/MT
US $137.59

Derale Black 18" Standard Rotation Mechanical Cooling Fan Dual Clutch Pattern
US $69.82

OER Reproduction Fan Shrouds 2998326
Part Number: OER-2998326 $129.99
I used the clutch which I already had. It's not a short shortie, and it's not too long either. It's snout is about 1"

The only real work I had to do this time was: Cut the 90 degree aluminum rails on the rad that the shroud is supposed to bolt to. Turn them to flange outward (new shroud mount tabs are just wider) and TIG weld the 90 flange rails back to the radiator. Drill flange for the new shroud. Installed it all and the clearances are just where I like them. There is a minor gap at the shroud sides but it's fine for now. I'm happy and only spent like $300 for the whole setup.

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OP - glad you got it sorted. I know what a relief it can be to finally get something to fit and work as planned. Where did you source the radiator, fan with clutch, and shroud?
Can you please remind us what vehicle this was installed in? Different cars have different clearances, especially up front.
 
"Easy..." hahaha
I've done a few of these on my motor with just that method. The non-easy part with a tight clearance radiator/fan clutch combo is getting the bolts lined up and in with the radiator in the way!
Please read my post again
Since the radiator is being replaced, install the clutch and fan, hang the shroud over the fan/clutch, then lower the new radiator in place onto the rad support bolts. Easy. Then attach the shroud to the radiator.
It IS an easy job.
 
YES......IM GLAD I AM AN ENGINEER......for without us, 95% of the FBBO forum members would not have a classic car to show, tinker with and just enjoy having it.....instead, they would be either walking, riding a horse, traveling by covered wagon or living in a cave.....without the ability to text or tic-toc or Facebook, or what ever is the venue du jure. Chastising is the typical adverse comment.....but without the engineers of the world, where would these critics be????......."just my opinion of course".....
BOB RENTON
 
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