Meep-Meep
дворянин
Long ago when I had the 4 spd in my 68 RR the clutch began to chatter so I pulled the tranny to investigate. I was running the Borg and Beck pressure plate (OEM style used on MoPars) and found the three fingers to be at various heights. It seemed obvious to me that was the problem so I readjusted the fingers and that seemed to cure the problem. FF to present and my 66 hemi Charger is acting up the same way.
Friday night I pulled the tranny to swap in a Passon OD box I just built and to look at the clutch. The pics show what I found. This P plate is pretty new and you can clearly see the wear pattern is not even. Heat marks on one side and nearly untouched machined surface on the rest. The fingers were uneven as well.
So I decided to get scientific and do some measuring. I mocked up the P plate, disc and flywheel on my mill and with a faced off piece of steel acting as a TO bearing butted up against the quill, I moved the table up and down to actuate the clutch. A feeler gauge was used to check the gap all around and it was not even. I adjusted two of the 11/16" nuts until I got an even drag of a .005" feeler gauge between the disc and plate then tack welded them to lock in place. One nut took 1/4 turn and that is significant. I'm hoping this will do the trick but if not Charlie and I will be back under the car pumping iron and wishing for that brief moment I had a Muncie.
...Just realized pics are in another computer so I'll post them later.
Friday night I pulled the tranny to swap in a Passon OD box I just built and to look at the clutch. The pics show what I found. This P plate is pretty new and you can clearly see the wear pattern is not even. Heat marks on one side and nearly untouched machined surface on the rest. The fingers were uneven as well.
So I decided to get scientific and do some measuring. I mocked up the P plate, disc and flywheel on my mill and with a faced off piece of steel acting as a TO bearing butted up against the quill, I moved the table up and down to actuate the clutch. A feeler gauge was used to check the gap all around and it was not even. I adjusted two of the 11/16" nuts until I got an even drag of a .005" feeler gauge between the disc and plate then tack welded them to lock in place. One nut took 1/4 turn and that is significant. I'm hoping this will do the trick but if not Charlie and I will be back under the car pumping iron and wishing for that brief moment I had a Muncie.
...Just realized pics are in another computer so I'll post them later.