FWIW.....when I built the engine in the GTX (too many years ago), this is what I did....
Crank bearings....I used Clevite 77 tri-metal (steel backed babbit with a copper-tin overlay...not the new stuff with the polymer coating ), and used 2 sets of upper shells, to get full groove main bearings (remove tang on bottom shell), for 360° rod bearing oiling, set clearance at 0.0025", torqued cap bolts (ARP) to FSM specs + 15 lb-ft additional torque for better crush. The rod bearings set with same type/brand as mains. Used ARP hardwear at FSM specs. ALL bearing clearances measured with OD mics and ID snap gauge with bearing cap bolts/hardware at torque specs, with the differences between OD journal and ID bearing being the clearance, checked in several spots to show zero taper. I also use a high VOLUME pump, Wix filter and 10W-30 Mobil One oil, windage tray, MOPAR Rear seal. Running oil pressure (hot) @ 3000 RPM = 70-75 PSI. Good or bad, right or wrong, correct or not, its been this way for many years.....this is what has worked for me. The car is just a cruise car/show car.....no racing only an occasional stop light contest at the Woodward Ave Dream Cruise...... Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON[/QUOTE
Anything from Clevite, Federal Mogul/Sealed Power, Durabond or King Bearings will be just fine. Of course everything is on national back order these days. However, on my last several builds I have found and used King Bearings due to them having many more std and undersized options available and in stock for many of our older Mopar engines over the others.