Connecting Rod Bearings

[charge70]

I'm starting to assemble my 440 short block.Crank is in and rods and pistons are next.My question is,can you use a standard size insert on 1 half of the rod and a .001 under on the other side to adjust clearance.If so,where would you put the larger shell.I'm not saying I have to,just want to know if you can.Thanks.

 

[69L48Z27]

Yep

 

[dvw]

Yes you can. Conventional thinking is the tighter shell goes on the loaded side. On a rod bearing it would be the upper. How much clearance do you have with standard bearings?
Doug

 

[charge70]

Doug,haven't got that far yet,will know this weekend when I get into it further

 

[yella71]

I wont do it but there are many who do. Your choice. That said I have seen it done with no issue

 

[RJRENTON]

I'm starting to assemble my 440 short block.Crank is in and rods and pistons are next.My question is,can you use a standard size insert on 1 half of the rod and a .001 under on the other side to adjust clearance.If so,where would you put the larger shell.I'm not saying I have to,just want to know if you can.Thanks.

A couple of curiosity questions.....
What brand of bearings are you using? Clevite or equal
What type of bearing are you using? Tri metal type or strictly babbit or?
Are you using full groove / partial groove main bearings (to promote 360° rod bearing oiling)?
Installed main bearing clearance?
Engine's intended use?
Always interested in the decision making matrix..... Thanks in advance for your help
BOB RENTON

 

[charge70]

A couple of curiosity questions.....
What brand of bearings are you using? Clevite or equal
What type of bearing are you using? Tri metal type or strictly babbit or?
Are you using full groove / partial groove main bearings (to promote 360° rod bearing oiling)?
Installed main bearing clearance?
Engine's intended use?
Always interested in the decision making matrix..... Thanks in advance for your help
BOB RENTON

Bob,
The standard bearings are Sealed Power and the .001 unders are Fed Mogul.
Both sets are Tri-Metal
The mains are 1/2 groove,OE Mopar
Clearance on the mains is .0025
Restored car,Street driven,no track time

 

[Challenger340]

Common problem.... and IMO, an all too commonly used fix.
just say'in, IMO
right way is to have the Crankshaft reground to 'lowside' or small end of the tolerance, so the Rods(or main Bores in the Block) can be ReSized(line-Honed) and "taylored' during sizing to provide adequate Vertical Oil Clrc using 2 same-same bearing shells.... while maintaining good "Crush" on the Bearings in the Housings.

But I guess these days we just take whatever we can get ?
The real "FUN" will occur when you check all 8 Rod Bearings and find the Clrc's all over the Map because of Crank size variance or Rod Big End Size variance ?

 

[bm02tj]

How are you checking clearance. With a note plastigage is not 100% accurate

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Not a problem, some it many times.

 

[RJRENTON]

Not a problem, some it many times.

FWIW.....when I built the engine in the GTX (too many years ago), this is what I did....
Crank bearings....I used Clevite 77 tri-metal (steel backed babbit with a copper-tin overlay...not the new stuff with the polymer coating ), and used 2 sets of upper shells, to get full groove main bearings (remove tang on bottom shell), for 360° rod bearing oiling, set clearance at 0.0025", torqued cap bolts (ARP) to FSM specs + 15 lb-ft additional torque for better crush. The rod bearings set with same type/brand as mains. Used ARP hardwear at FSM specs. ALL bearing clearances measured with OD mics and ID snap gauge with bearing cap bolts/hardware at torque specs, with the differences between OD journal and ID bearing being the clearance, checked in several spots to show zero taper. I also use a high VOLUME pump, Wix filter and 10W-30 Mobil One oil, windage tray, MOPAR Rear seal. Running oil pressure (hot) @ 3000 RPM = 70-75 PSI. Good or bad, right or wrong, correct or not, its been this way for many years.....this is what has worked for me. The car is just a cruise car/show car.....no racing only an occasional stop light contest at the Woodward Ave Dream Cruise...... Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[6PKRTSE]

FWIW.....when I built the engine in the GTX (too many years ago), this is what I did....
Crank bearings....I used Clevite 77 tri-metal (steel backed babbit with a copper-tin overlay...not the new stuff with the polymer coating ), and used 2 sets of upper shells, to get full groove main bearings (remove tang on bottom shell), for 360° rod bearing oiling, set clearance at 0.0025", torqued cap bolts (ARP) to FSM specs + 15 lb-ft additional torque for better crush. The rod bearings set with same type/brand as mains. Used ARP hardwear at FSM specs. ALL bearing clearances measured with OD mics and ID snap gauge with bearing cap bolts/hardware at torque specs, with the differences between OD journal and ID bearing being the clearance, checked in several spots to show zero taper. I also use a high VOLUME pump, Wix filter and 10W-30 Mobil One oil, windage tray, MOPAR Rear seal. Running oil pressure (hot) @ 3000 RPM = 70-75 PSI. Good or bad, right or wrong, correct or not, its been this way for many years.....this is what has worked for me. The car is just a cruise car/show car.....no racing only an occasional stop light contest at the Woodward Ave Dream Cruise...... Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON[/QUOTE
Anything from Clevite, Federal Mogul/Sealed Power, Durabond or King Bearings will be just fine. Of course everything is on national back order these days. However, on my last several builds I have found and used King Bearings due to them having many more std and undersized options available and in stock for many of our older Mopar engines over the others.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

@6PKRTSE I am using King rod bearings in my 440. Not running yet, cheaper than Clevite, and packaged better IMO.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I do it from time to time. Wasn’t an issue when I had a machine shop at my disposal but when that’s not an option you do what you have to.