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Cost Effective Cable Kickdown Solution for 727/904 - OEM Mopar parts

AndyOpi66

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Hello all,

I just wanted to share my solution with to the dreaded kick-down setup when you are performing an engine or carburetor swap and do not want to modify the existing rod and pivot setup. I know for a fact this works for Holley carburetors, but may work for Edelbrock/Carter carburetors as well. The core parts of this solution (The kick-down cable and brackets) are OEM and were designed to work with the later overdrive variations of the 904 and 727, the 42RH/E and the 46RH/E. So they do bolt right up to almost all 727 and 904 transmissions.

The only transmission that the setup wont bolt up to is, I believe, very late model truck 727 transmissions that are missing a mounting ear on the bell-housing. For all other transmissions this will work.

For how everything goes together I am linking a video at the bottom the page, it is easier to understand when you can see everything moving. The total cost I have in this setup is right around a $100, which is very competitive to the Lokar setup. However, this setup uses a more durable OEM designed cable and has the proper spring to pull the kick-down lever back forward when the throttle is partially open or closed.

Some brief details on what is needed is the cable, corresponding brackets, kick-down lever, and spring from a 1994-2001 Dodge Ram 1500 or Dodge Ram Van (These are sourced from a local pick and pull and are priced cheap. I paid $20 for all this).

The next items needed to connect the new cable to the carburetor are a Holley 20-7 Throttle Adaptor, Edelbrock 8018 kick-down cable stud, Bouchillon Performance kickdown cable bracket (mounts kick-down cable under throttle cable on throttle cable bracket), one standard length 1/4 Coupler nut, and lastly one 1/4 bolt that threads into the coupler nut.

Below are the pics of the cable, lever, and spring and of course the video.

Kickdown Cable.JPG
Lever and spring.JPG

In the next photos you will be able to see the bottom bracket and the last small bracket which is attached on the bell-housing ear of the donor vehicle. The small spring which retracts the kick-down lever arm is also attached to this.
Bracket.jpg

Bellhousing bracket.jpg

Now explaining how this all bolts to the carburetor and transmission is a little difficult with text and pictures, so please reference the before mentioned video in the link below. Please let me know if you have questions and I will do my best to answer them!

 
Last edited:
I'm looking for a solution for a missing kickdown setup for a project. I saw the BPE
setup and had some sticker shock, and am thinking I can make this stuff. Long story short, had a 2001 Dodge van I sent to the scrap yard with these parts still on it. I swapped the transmission into another van so I didn't need it. Only a couple weeks later did I pick this new project... although we usually try you can't save everything. Maybe I can still find my old van at the local Pick and Pull.
Thanks for the heads up.
 
Last edited:
Hello all,

I just wanted to share my solution with to the dreaded kick-down setup when you are performing an engine or carburetor swap and do not want to modify the existing rod and pivot setup. I know for a fact this works for Holley carburetors, but may work for Edelbrock/Carter carburetors as well. The core parts of this solution (The kick-down cable and brackets) are OEM and were designed to work with the later overdrive variations of the 904 and 727, the 42RH/E and the 46RH/E. So they do bolt right up to almost all 727 and 904 transmissions.

The only transmission that the setup wont bolt up to is, I believe, very late model truck 727 transmissions that are missing a mounting ear on the bell-housing. For all other transmissions this will work.

For how everything goes together I am linking a video at the bottom the page, it is easier to understand when you can see everything moving. The total cost I have in this setup is right around a $100, which is very competitive to the Lokar setup. However, this setup uses a more durable OEM designed cable and has the proper spring to pull the kick-down lever back forward when the throttle is partially open or closed.

Some brief details on what is needed is the cable, corresponding brackets, kick-down lever, and spring from a 1994-2001 Dodge Ram 1500 or Dodge Ram Van (These are sourced from a local pick and pull and are priced cheap. I paid $20 for all this).

The next items needed to connect the new cable to the carburetor are a Holley 20-7 Throttle Adaptor, Edelbrock 8018 kick-down cable stud, Bouchillon Performance kickdown cable bracket (mounts kick-down cable under throttle cable on throttle cable bracket), one standard length 1/4 Coupler nut, and lastly one 1/4 bolt that threads into the coupler nut.

Below are the pics of the cable, lever, and spring and of course the video.

View attachment 1396009View attachment 1396010
In the next photos you will be able to see the bottom bracket and the last small bracket which is attached on the bell-housing ear of the donor vehicle. The small spring which retracts the kick-down lever arm is also attached to this.
View attachment 1396020
View attachment 1396019
Now explaining how this all bolts to the carburetor and transmission is a little difficult with text and pictures, so please reference the before mentioned video in the link below. Please let me know if you have questions and I will do my best to answer them!


Does using the Holley 20-7 allow for a longer pull on the transmission cable? I have a Sniper on a 318 and an trying to get the right pull on my Lokar cable.
 
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