Cotter pins in castle nuts.

[440 PHIXX]

I installed new lower ball joints, and on the drivers side I was able to get the cotter pins to go through the castle but. On the passenger side neither one lines up with a slot. Aside of taking it back apart and trying to get the right size washer to shim it... what have you guys done?

 

[OH71RRunner]

I've always tightened or loosened the nut depending on which way is closer.

 

[dvw]

If the slot is to low. Check the taper and make sure nothing was worn. If that's good remove the nut add a washer, retorque and install the key. If the groove is to high you need a thinner nut.
Doug

 

[Photon440]

If you're using a nut with slots, you can encounter the problem you described. That's why Chrysler used these stamped sheetmetal locks to fit over standard nuts, it's easier to get close to the desired location.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I believe the FSM calls for the nut to be tightened to the next usable slot. But that would mean some engineer at some time had seen this as being a problem and had allowed in the torque setting a solution. I would be no means simple loosen the nut.

 

[R413]

The instructions are to torque to spec, then tighten to line up the next groove for the cotter pin. Never loosen a tapered stud on the suspension.

 

[ckessel]

You may have encountered the same issue that happens sometimes on the upper ball joints. The manufactures have consolidated many parts, i.e. the ball joint stud, doing a one size fits all. This leaves the nut being past the hole in the stud for the pin. They compensate by putting washers in the parts pack so the nut gets back to where the holes line up. The taper angle is correct but the overall length of the stud may be different. Plus the length of it before the taper starts and after it ends.

 

[440 PHIXX]

They are USA made Moog lower ball joints. The hole is at the correct height. I got to the 120 ft. lbs. that the FSM specified, but turned the torque wrench up to 126 and I’m still not there yet. I’d hate to break the bolt.

 

[440 PHIXX]

The instructions are to torque to spec, then tighten to line up the next groove for the cotter pin. Never loosen a tapered stud on the suspension.

That’s how most shops do it I’m sure. Thanks!

 

[R413]

You won’t break that stud, line up the hole and go.

 

[sam dupont]

you can put the nut to a disc sander and take a couple thousandths off

 

[440 PHIXX]

You won’t break that stud, line up the hole and go.

I have the tapered studs in. These are the two bolts the attach the ball joint to the knuckle. The ones you have to hold a wrench on the other end when removing.

 

[RemCharger]

About 70 and up, and newr brake conversion kits all use lock nuts.
Open to being corrected on that, but they did away with the cotter pins on those bolts