Crank, crank, tries to start as the key is released.

Kern Dog

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Yeah....
This happens with my 75 Power Wagon but also used to happen with my Charger.

NOS 19.JPG


The first thought is to blame the ignition switch. I've plugged in 2 other switches and still had the same problem.
Crank and crank....no spark but then just as the key is released to the RUN position, the engine tries to start and snorts up the carburetor and air filter. Sometimes I time it right and release just in time and the truck fires up. Other times the truck starts normally like nothing was ever wrong.
I have wiggled the wires to the ballast resistor and had it fire up immediately afterwards. I have replaced the ballast resistor and it has fired up normally.
It is as if the Mopar gods are hovering over me and playing pranks.
My Charger used to do this same thing randomly.

Folsom 11.JPG


I replaced the engine side wire harness and it hasn't done it much, if at all, since.

I suspect with the Power Wagon, that there is some damaged or loose wiring causing this. Maybe all it takes is a little vibration to either help or cause the "no-spark" condition. The truck has the 4 pin ballast resistor and electronic ignition. I guess I should check all my grounds and connections.

I have a 72 Duster with transplanted electronic ignition and it has never done this. ALL of the wiring in that car is vintage 1974 or older.

Years ago I had a 73 Duster with original wiring. It never did this but it would randomly get no spark at all, then just suddenly start up and run fine.

My 67 Dart is the only classic that I have that always starts. Never has had a "no-spark" issue of any kind. It is also the only one with breaker points!
 

Cranky

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Just about all my cars that had points never gave me any problems unless it was time for a tune-up. Have you tried changing out the control module?
 

1 Wild R/T

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Try a combination of MarPar & Cranky clean & tighten the ground for the control module.... Thought honestly it could be a few other things too....

Like the air gap on the pick-up coil/reluctor..
 

kiwigtx

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It can also be an issue with a dirty bulkhead connection or two. That "crank, crank...start'ish" problem can be a bee-atch to locate sometimes.
 

71newp

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I have had this problem. Bad ICM/ECU.
 

Kern Dog

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Just about all my cars that had points never gave me any problems unless it was time for a tune-up. Have you tried changing out the control module?
No, I haven't. I've had this truck 9 years and have never touched it. It might be original!
 

Don Frelier

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Look closely at the bulkhead connector.
The gratuitous pictures really don't add much here...
(But they look good)
 

HawkRod

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I would begin with checking the start circuit through the ballast resistor. Disconnect the small wire that activates your starter solenoid (so your starter will not turn and the car won't start). Then use a simple test light and connect it to the start circuit wire going through the ballast resistor. When your key goes to the start position, you should see the light go on. Then, while in the start position (someone needs to help you with the key), start wiggling wires and see if you can make it blink. You will likely need to try multiple positions , tracing the wire back. Hopefully you can find a wire that is the problem.

And yes, as others have said, check your grounds too!

Good luck!
 
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71newp

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I have had this problem. Bad ICM/ECU.
From my experience, a bad ICM/ECU has the opposite symptoms from a bad ballast resistor. The BR wants to run in the "start" position and not in the "run". A bad ICM/ECU won't run in "start" but will run in the "run" position.
 

Kern Dog

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One problem that I encounter....and that I suspect that others do as well, is when a problem is random and not consistent!
If the problem is not repeatable, it can be harder to fix.
I've wiggled wires and sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Same with replacing parts.
Lucky for me, I have several ECUs, ballast resistors, coils and distributors to cycle through.
One day I can walk out to the truck and it fires right up. The next day, it spins and won't light. What changed from day to day? Can a ballast resistor work only part of the time? I had one that worked fine in the Charger. It was idling in the shop then I shut the hood and the engine stalled. The vibration must have damaged the BR because after looking at several things, when I pulled the BR off, I could see that the spring on the back side connecting the two terminals was broken.

BR.jpg
 

BB BELLA

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quite common with vehicles that have 3 stud solenoid, the solenoid is not making contact internally in the start position for ignition and when the key is released the inertia of the motor is enough for it to fire when the igntion changes to run position!
 

toolmanmike

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Ballast resistor. Get a couple from @HALIFAXHOPS. You may never need the second one. Your truck should have a dual and your Charger a single resistor unless it has been changed. Also check the power feed wire through the bulkhead connector.
 

HALIFAXHOPS

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OK Only in the run position can only be in that circuit. So if your running a double ballast the run side is either open or it is THAT SIDE of the ballast wiring think of a ballast like a blown fuse. Easy check see if one of the terminals gets 12 VDC in the run position. If so and the other side does not have any voltage it is a ballast. Do it with a volt meter a ohm meter can show good if it looses it under power. If it does not you have to start chasing it from the ballast back. Check the connectors first and when apart see if the termina for the run position has 12V. If it does problem in the engine compartment if not have to shoot the wiring inside the car. Start at the ign switch and see if it lets 12V out with the key in run. FSM should have the wiring diagram.
 
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