Dana 60 Gear pattern

[mala]

Hello all!
Its my first post here and I don't know much about rear ends.... So I need little help and hope you guys can steer me in right direction here.

A friend helped me to set up my gear, and everything is new inside. Now I take it for a drive and its howl when accelerating...

I have now take som pictures of the gear pattern... done with a air drill on pinion nut and hade pressure on the big gear. Back lash is .010

What is wrong here?

 

[mala]

Two more pic.

 

[Don67Satellite]

Well, let's go for the obvious, I'll assume you put gear oil in it?

Here's some rear end troubleshooting resources.

https://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-warrior/understanding-rear-differential-noise/

https://www.houstonrebuiltaxles.com/troubleshooting-rear-axle-problems.htm

 

[mala]

Well, let's go for the obvious, I'll assume you put gear oil in it?

Here's some rear end troubleshooting resources.

https://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-warrior/understanding-rear-differential-noise/

https://www.houstonrebuiltaxles.com/troubleshooting-rear-axle-problems.htm

Yes, I had oil in it.

 

[mala]

How do I check my preload? Can I do that now when rear is on the car?

It has been a couple of year since I bought the stuff from Dr Diff, but I think brand was Standard Gear.

 

[ksurfer2]

I recently brought my car to a shop to be re-geared. I brought the new gear set and install kit to the shop. The shop did all the work in one day and charged $600. Install is flawless, not even a little noise out the rear.

 

[khryslerkid]

The pinion bearings have to have preload. You check this with a inch pound torque wrench with the center section removed.

The center section bearings have to have preload also. It's done with shims.

If preload on these bearings are too loose the gears will move away from each other under load. If they are too tight they will burn up.

 

[mala]

The pinion bearings have to have preload. You check this with a inch pound torque wrench with the center section removed.

The center section bearings have to have preload also. It's done with shims.

If preload on these bearings are too loose the gears will move away from each other under load. If they are too tight they will burn up.

If the gear pattern is ok? I will check out my preload and see if its correct. I have to do it my self because here is no "axelshop" around here, I hope I can get back with a positiv results...

 

[dvw]

It has a little much compound to be sure. But to me the pinion depth is not deep enough. The pointed end of the pattern is to far from the root of the ring gear tooth.
Doug

 

[mala]

It has a little much compound to be sure. But to me the pinion depth is not deep enough. The pointed end of the pattern is to far from the root of the ring gear tooth.
Doug

Thanks!
That was my thought also after looked on several "gear pattern chart" I must use a thinner pinion shims to move pattern against center on toot... Right?

 

[dvw]

Thanks!
That was my thought also after looked on several "gear pattern chart" I must use a thinner pinion shims to move pattern against center on toot... Right?

No, thicker shim. I don’t think its far off. I’d try .005”. Then check it and see. When the pointed ends of the pattern. When the point is centered between the top land and the root, the depth is correct.
Doug

 

[mala]

I hade to take of the rear from car so I could work with it.
dvw you was right, thicker shim. So now I add .006 shims to pinion... To me the pattern looks better, more centered between face and root. And now the backlash is .007 is that acceptable? I add some pictures on the new pattern.

 

[dvw]

Looks good to me.
Doug

 

[1970lime]

I hade to take of the rear from car so I could work with it.
dvw you was right, thicker shim. So now I add .006 shims to pinion... To me the pattern looks better, more centered between face and root. And now the backlash is .007 is that acceptable? I add some pictures on the new pattern.

View attachment 1227304 View attachment 1227305 View attachment 1227306

That should be good as long as it's quiet.

 

[mala]

*Update*

This is how you turn a cheap rear end in to expensive one.

This was my first rear end job, if swapping pumpkin in a 8 3/4 don't count. I bought a D60 from a Ford pickup and cut it and weld new ends on it and had a friend to set up the gear. The axel was stored in my garage for 3 years before I get a propshaft and I had time... to put it on my car. I bought everything new for this axel, just for it not should be any problems.... Sure! It howl and growl at any set up.

Well! My brand new Power-lock was out of spec, So the carrier has been shaved in a lathe.... On my cost. The gear set was test mounted on a new Mooser spool with a B/L variation of .005...... So now I have to buy a new gear set again..... And pinion seal and nut, oil and gasket and a lot of gas to drive everywhere for steal and loan stuff.
The good news is.... Now is the rear dead silent and I have learn how to sett up a gear set....

 

[Cranky]

Missed this thread....but was going to say, I agree with what dvw said. Howl on accel usually indicates the pinion isn't deep enough. And did you use an alignment bar when you welded on the new ends? And checking the runout of the carrier is one of the things that need to be done before assembly.

 

[mala]

Well! Its howl on both acc and coast more or less. I think it has to do with the B/L variation of .005 don't you think? Yes! I should have measure the carrier first it was my rookie mistake.
I use an alignment bar when I welded on the ends.

 

[Cranky]

Well! Its howl on both acc and coast more or less. I think it has to do with the B/L variation of .005 don't you think? Yes! I should have measure the carrier first it was my rookie mistake.
I use an alignment bar when I welded on the ends.View attachment 1290549

Did you weld with the bar in? If so, did you have any problem getting it out?

 

[mala]

Did you weld with the bar in? If so, did you have any problem getting it out?

No problem to get the alignment bar out after it was welded.

 

[Cranky]

No problem to get the alignment bar out after it was welded.

I don't weld with my bar in place. It only has like .002" clearance. Years ago a buddy welded up a housing with it and he liked to never got it out. I'm just glad it didn't bend it and yes, I checked it afterwards. He didn't 'stitch' weld it and just went full circle.