dash removal

[74roadrunner440]

im trying to remove a couple guages seems like all the screws are on back whats the easiest way to do this u have to pull dash all out? and as long as im doing this i want repace all the bulbs w led lights any help in getting it out w/o breaking it would be a plus this is on my 73 rr

 

[Nacho-RT74]

need to remove the cluster to get access to gauges, no need to remove full dash

begin removing the radio ( one nut on back passenger side, one screw on side of front bezel getting access from ashtray area, 2 nuts on pots ), then will be able to pull out the cluster, after removing the 6 phillips screws hold it in place ( two on top, two on sides, 2 underneath the dash frame at sides of steering column ), speedo wire, harness/wires and vacuum lines/temp wire from AC/Heater control

Drop the column is a must

No need to remove cluster to replace bulbs though, just makes it tricky

 

[charger360]

Nacho is right, these dashes are a bit of a pain that way!

 

[74roadrunner440]

i got all the screws in bezel out i i unhooked the spedo will the wires a reach long enough to remove dash far enough to get access to the screws in back? do light n wipers need to be unpluged ps if eny one hs a dash bezel plz let me know mine just fell apart like a egg lol must of been dry rott or w somone tried to cut the dash 4 radio uggg

 

[Nacho-RT74]

trust me, doesn't make sense to get access on gauges with cluster housing still on car. The job is the same doing it on bench than on car... but talking about comfort

you can remove wipers and lights switches from cluster and keep them attached to wiring if you want. It's at your own.

but HOW GREAT IS MAKE THE JOB ON A BENCH!

 

[jessipup]

Dont forget to drop the steering wheel and what parts do you need I have a spare Ive been using for parts and also MR G is in cowtown and I bought a rechromed one from him. If it is out it would be a good time to do a complete rebuild. I also found an excellent orange paint for the needles at home depot. Fif not remove just slid some stiff paper under them and brushed away they look just like new now. Another big thing I found is that on the ammeter there are no bushings on the posts between them and the metsl frame if a wire gets tugged wrong tou will have a major short. Also HD fix Igot some plastic sleeves/ spacers and drilled out the centers and sanded the outside to fir the holes. Now they are insulated and can not cause a shortIf Ipull mine out again I probably will go with L.E.D.s for the bulbs. Could be time for white guage faces> there are pics here in another thread could be Marls or Bruzilla cant remember

 

[jessipup]

Hey there are like 10 ralley dashes for a 74 runner on ebay in auction right now from 25$-150$
Search "1974 roadrunner used"
Good luck!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Another big thing I found is that on the ammeter there are no bushings on the posts between them and the metsl frame if a wire gets tugged wrong tou will have a major short. Also HD fix Igot some plastic sleeves/ spacers and drilled out the centers and sanded the outside to fir the holes. Now they are insulated and can not cause a shortIf Ipull mine out again

wrong proceedement. The studs ( if you still haven't upgraded your charging system correctly ) gets hot and will melt the bushings

there is a reason why they are on the air. The gauge fits correctly without need for those. Is more important get isolated the nuts/studs assembly with the masonite sheet on both sides of hosuing, This is the piece gets cracked with the time and heat untill miss a section and produce a play getting the nuts able to get in touch with housing

another deal on ammeter studs is the heating/colding process when the charge system is unbalanced uses to get loosen the studs from ammeter gauge. They are originally fit with a press.