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Decoding a stock radiator

Kern Dog

Life is full of turns. Build your car to handle.
FBBO Gold Member
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Hey guys,
I have a 26" factory radiator that looks like it is for a big block due to the hose nipple positions.
The number on it is 2998 965. It has a shroud on it.
I can't find what this is supposed to fit. It looks like I can get it to fit in my '70 Charger project car. Currently the Charger has a 22" opening in the core support but that is easily changed, right?
 
It will need to be boiled out, I'm sure.

a rad.jpg
 
HA ! Thank you!
I tried searching but came up with nothing. The Glen Ray site had no listing for this.
The guy I got it from had a bunch of early A body stuff and some '78 Little Red Express parts. THis radiator didn't match either of those types of vehicles.
 
HA ! Thank you!
I tried searching but came up with nothing. The Glen Ray site had no listing for this.
The guy I got it from had a bunch of early A body stuff and some '78 Little Red Express parts. THis radiator didn't match either of those types of vehicles.
I tried to find my Govier book...but failed miserably. Garage needs a sorting out :lol:
 
I used a air saw to open my rad support for a larger rad.I forget what the wider one is but now it just sits in the shop since I went to aluminum.It even has the high efficiency core!
Anyone want one cheap??

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70 C body 383 with a/c. Everybody in the hobby needs a pocket white book or two. :poke::poke::lol:
 
I had heard some of the C bodies were easy swaps into 66-70 B bodies. Trim one side with a cutoff wheel and drill a hole or two. Dunno if it is true.
 
I just put a C 68 body rad in my 69 B body. 22” to 22”. I used this rad as it was free and a new 3 road record too. If you want to open up the opening to 26” you’ll have to cut it which I can never seem to bring myself to do. The other thing you may want to check is the height of the rad and exactly where the brackets are located in relationship to the factory b body holes and also in relationship to the bottom of the rad and rad support.

I had to oval out the top holes on the side brackets by about 1/16 - 1/8” (IE: not very much) and then just redrill the bottom location all together and use a bolt and nut, not the factory B body locations. All of this was done in order to get the rad off the rad support at the bottom. I made it so there was an 1/8” gap between the rad and the support cradle. If yours is off too be careful to keep it as tight to the cradle at the bottom without touching as the clearance at the top is tight in a few spots near the rad cap and hood bracing etc....

The other thing I had to do was to use a C body upper rad hose as it was on the opposite side as compared to the factory B body location. Included a picture of the part number in case your hoses are in the same location.
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