Disc brake conversion on 66 Satellite

[68 Sport Satellite]

I had quality issues with my master power brakes kit too, but they sure had good customer service.

All good info.
In 2003 I purchased the Master Power kit.
some quality issues and misaligned holes.

Keep us posted on the path you decide to take and progress please?

 

[hemistix66]

Think ill try 60to0. Thats basically doing the bone yard crawl w/o the hassle. Like a fellow member said $3-400 aint bad&keep it Mopar. Wife wont be doin 125 plus lol

 

[delfinomuro]

i was also wondering if i would also have to change the master cylinder and if so which type of vehicle should ask for when looking to buy a brand new one from an auto store?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Yes. There are a number of mc that can be used, factory or aftermarket, really depends on how you want to go.

 

[delfinomuro]

What exactly do you mean by how I want to go?

Yes. There are a number of mc that can be used, factory or aftermarket, really depends on how you want to go.

 

[kb67mopar]

He means they have a few options for power, non power, etc.

Personally I'd never do anything brake related without adding a power booster.

 

[delfinomuro]

Ohh ok, let's say I wanted power, how much would that run?

 

[kb67mopar]

Ohh ok, let's say I wanted power, how much would that run?

haha, well that depends...

I think I spent $30 to make mine power but I modified my car for a newer style master/booster that I got from a salvage yard.

you may want to research different kits to get their pricing...I haven't looked in a while.

 

[5.7 hemi]

A booster kit will cost more, but do you have a ratty cam? If so, forget power brakes!

 

[Redhorse719]

haha, well that depends...

I think I spent $30 to make mine power but I modified my car for a newer style master/booster that I got from a salvage yard.

you may want to research different kits to get their pricing...I haven't looked in a while.

Can you post a link to the installation of the newer master/booster?

 

[delfinomuro]

What would you recommend if im making mines into a street/performance vehicle......

haha, well that depends...

I think I spent $30 to make mine power but I modified my car for a newer style master/booster that I got from a salvage yard.

you may want to research different kits to get their pricing...I haven't looked in a while.

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What you mean by ratty cam?

A booster kit will cost more, but do you have a ratty cam? If so, forget power brakes!

 

[tallhair]

What would you recommend if im making mines into a street/performance vehicle......



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What you mean by ratty cam?

I'm sure he means higher lift with lots of lope. You need sufficient vacuum for power brakes and high lift cams aren't known for maintaining good vacuum especially at low engine speeds

 

[kb67mopar]

Can you post a link to the installation of the newer master/booster?

Well I never detailed out the installation but I basically set it right though the existing hole in the firewall and marked the holes that needed to be there for the bolts, drilled the holes on both that and the mounting plate, added about 1" of steel to the lower part of the plate to accommodate the lower holes and bolted it in. The pedal needed a small amount of steel welded to the back and a new hole drilled to hook to the new booster but nothing real special, to measure that i just held the pedal where it needed to be and used a tape measure, welded it on, then put it back together and held the pedal again to mark the hole, drilled and used a grade 8 bolt for the pin. That was it and it stops great. If you are keeping existing brake lines you will have to run new ones from the proportioning block to the master cylinder though, for the cherokee master the front brakes use an M12x1.00 and the rear is an M10x1.00 both bubble flare.

From the pictures you can see the extra holes in both the firewall and plate. The plate is hanging from one of the new holes. There is about 1/4" to 1/8" of space between the booster and inner fender, so don't get anything larger than this. I also redid my brake lines (needed to anyway) with all new and added a summit racing rear proportioning valve to work with my rear disk package that I built.

Depending on how "performance" oriented you want to be depends on what I will recommend, if you plan to take it to track days and tear up the track then I'd tell you to invest in an Alterktion and add big dual piston discs to it with slotted rotors. If you are like me and want a dependable street driver that will stop just as well as a late model then I say run the A body brakes with a late model booster/master and maybe upgrade to rear disk (but rear drum is still ok here).

The biggest thing you can do to help yourself out is research and read.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?47315-8-3-4-Rear-Disc-Brake-Conversion

 

[theman440]

...dropped in to the local do-it yerself yard this afternoon - there were 2 donor cars there with all the front brake parts. They're still around!

 

[greenmachine]

Going through the same thing with my coronet. What do u guys think of dr diff's kit for 275.00 it comes with the brackets to mount 2002 and older viper calipers to bbody drum spindles. Calipers with core are 168 a pop at my local parts shop. Plus 11.75 rotors that are 235 for the pair. That's about 900 all said and done. But 4 piston calipers sound nice!

 

[kb67mopar]

Going through the same thing with my coronet. What do u guys think of dr diff's kit for 275.00 it comes with the brackets to mount 2002 and older viper calipers to bbody drum spindles. Calipers with core are 168 a pop at my local parts shop. Plus 11.75 rotors that are 235 for the pair. That's about 900 all said and done. But 4 piston calipers sound nice!

If you aren't going on track days you will never need those. A stock A body set or another kit will be capable of locking them up if you pound on them which is the limit of your tires and not the brakes. Brake fade and heat soak are the only reasons to upgrade to a twin piston and you won't see that stoplight to stoplight.

 

[Dako]

4 pistons = 4 times the opportunity to have a leak...per wheel.

 

[greenmachine]

Thanks guys. I spoke with cass at dr. Diff yesterday and he confirmed what you said, plus the viper calipers may not fit under the 15s. He suggested his 615.00 kit and only 650.00 with slotted/cross drilled rotors. Experiences good with dr. Diff? Seems like a honest dude to me. Also should I switch from my master to a power brake booster or stick with manual?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Always hear good things about Dr. Diff.

 

[tallhair]

Thanks guys. I spoke with cass at dr. Diff yesterday and he confirmed what you said, plus the viper calipers may not fit under the 15s. He suggested his 615.00 kit and only 650.00 with slotted/cross drilled rotors. Experiences good with dr. Diff? Seems like a honest dude to me. Also should I switch from my master to a power brake booster or stick with manual?

Propwash stayed with manual if I remember correctly. Maybe get some feedback from him on how it works / he likes it.