disk brake conversion recommendation

1966-1967 Dodge Charger Forum

  1. PAPA_E

    PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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    I mean I really didn’t see much info when I made the jump and mannnn I was close to piecing a willwood kit together but that’s a lot more work. I saw the kit and damnnnn I just don’t want someone else to get duped.

    I beat the shit out of my cars and drive them hard as hell so I guess others may like the kit? It was an adventure and I know all the local parts store guys by first name now.

    on the other hand 440 source and Passon transmissions are amazing vendors who nailed all my needs and were unbelievably helpful sending me everything I need and in the exact direction I needed.
     
  2. 70chall440

    70chall440 Well-Known Member

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    I am doing a 4 wheel disc conversion right now on a 69 Ply wagon for a friend. He bought a kit from Summit, its a "the right stuff" kit which is pretty much the same kit you see from a wide variety of providers, some with different names and PNs, others with the same.

    In general there are 2 types of rear kits out there;

    1. Most of the kits you see use GM calipers (late 70's/early 80's) and require that you use Green bearings on the axle because their plates to mount the calipers replace the adjuster on the passenger side. Not sure where the rotors come from, I think they are patterned off GM units but I do not think they are the same as you would get at the auto parts store because they are drilled for 4 1/2" bolt pattern. Most of the kits have rotors that have GM and Ford/Mopar bolt patterns which suggest someone is making them for these kits specifically.

    2. The kit that Dr. Diff uses has 2000 (these calipers were used for quite awhile) Mustang Cobra calipers and rotors. His kit does not require Green bearings and allows you to keep your stock bearings and adjuster but his kit is more expensive. Also, in his kit (and any others like it) you have to either modify the center hub hole or turn your axle hubs down slightly because the ford style has a smaller center hub than a Mopar.

    Another way to do this for the rear (the system I prefer) is to source the calipers from your local auto parts store (99/2000 Cobra) as well as the rotors. Turn your axle hubs down slightly. Make mounts and weld them to the rear end housing. They could be cut off if you ever wanted to go back plus it allows you to retain the stock bearings and adjuster system.

    For the front, there are a number of kits that allow you to use mid 70's Mopar calipers on stock drum spindles.
     
  3. PAPA_E

    PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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    the kit I used, had a plate that pushed the axle out slightly but I didn’t modify the axle
     
  4. PAPA_E

    PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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    Here are some pictures
    Cars been sitting while I mess with the engine and trans and I haven’t driven it much since install
    image.jpg image.jpg
     
  5. 70chall440

    70chall440 Well-Known Member

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    Did you use Green bearings?
     
  6. PAPA_E

    PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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    no there were no bearings included for the rear. It’s a fairly thin plate that goes between the old plate that you rtv on the d60 and the new plate that spaces the rear minimally has mounting holes to mount the new caliper mounting plate and caliper
     
  7. 70chall440

    70chall440 Well-Known Member

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    So what about the adjuster on the passenger side? Is that still there?
     
  8. PAPA_E

    PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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    Adjuster?

    this is the Mancini kit going in towards the end of the video it’s the same design as the Pirate Bay one I bought. I imagine Mancini maybe at least included all the parts. He mounted the calipers low ... not sure why but anyways this kinda shows the kit going in, the spacer replaces the drum brake plate to keep everything in oem positioning

     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
  9. 70chall440

    70chall440 Well-Known Member

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    Ok a couple of things, first off he is using aftermarket axles and I could not tell but it looked like he had green bearings. Also, he is doing a Dana and I am not positive on that but on a 8 3/7 there is an adjuster ring on the passenger side which allows you to set pre load. Those plates he is showing would eliminate that adjuster so he can use that kit, however if he was doing a 8.75 he would either need to use green bearings or he would have to get a kit that doesn't require it and perhaps this doesn't but the kit I am working with right now does. That said and assuming it doesn't, then the stock adjuster must be retained but having said that you are then bolting your calipers to a plate that is less than 1/8" thick which perhaps isn't an issue but seems a bit flimsy to me. You could argue that the drums are the same way but the drums operate differently and you do not have the mass of a caliper floating up there to leverage on. I am not hating on the kit or anything, just trying to think it through.
     
  10. PAPA_E

    PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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    Your totally fine I posted up about how bad the kit it is. You are right the plate is very thin.... the plate that everything bolts to. I justified it as the front is the majority of the stopping power.

    he rebuilt his rear, and a bunch of other stuff but the plate that goes between the axle and the diff tube is what I used.

    I didn’t open my diff up or anything like that. I didn’t use an green bearings I just unbolted the old oem shafts, looked and the bearing on it looked recently replaced by a prior owner. I removed the drums and bolted in this kit.

    I came in here mostly to have others do themself a favor and not go with the Mancini style kit and most especially not buy from pirate jack
     
  11. 70chall440

    70chall440 Well-Known Member

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    Got it, thanks for clarifying that.

    So you have normal bearings in your rear end? Did you set the axle end play (I called it pre load previously, but it is really end play)? If not, I think you are going to have some issues.
     
  12. PAPA_E

    PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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    so the bearing is towards the end, the plate that all the brakes bolt to replaced the drum brake plate. I just slid the axle out looked at it. Installed the new plate almost exactly the same size as the drum plate that was there and slide the axle back in.

    was probably the easiest part of the kit. The part is a ring with bolt holes and an ear. The bolts thread back in as normal and the axle sits in the same spacing as oem. The ear then gives you bolt holes to mount the caliper bracket and caliper to.

    the disk just sits against the end of the axle

    it admittedly is a pretty smart setup however they definitely could have spent the coin to make a more solid 1 piece bracket.

    but the axle spacing is the same as oem with drums. The plate with the ear doesn’t contact the oem bearing that kinda floats on its plate that bolts to the axle tube
     
  13. 70chall440

    70chall440 Well-Known Member

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    Yes I have all that and understand how it goes together, but with the OEM system, on the right axle (pass side) there is an adjuster that must be set to establish the correct end play. When you took off the 4 bolts there should have been a little tab on one bolt that had a hook on one end that went into the adjuster. Conceptually, the plate you put in there should not have affected this and it should all be good; I believe this is the same system Dr Diff uses.

    Bottom line is that regardless of the plat you put in there, you have to adjust the end play or you are going to have bearing issues..
     
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    • PAPA_E

      PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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      weird the two sides of the axle were identical and nothing at all that looked vaguely like you’re describing
       
    • 70chall440

      70chall440 Well-Known Member

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      Were/are the axles stock (factory)? what car are they in or come out of?
       
    • 70chall440

      70chall440 Well-Known Member

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      I can get some pictures of the adjuster and tab tomorrow
       
    • PAPA_E

      PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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      I mean, I have no honest idea where the Dana 60 came from, if it was oem or not. The axle could be replaced I know the gearing was changed.
       
    • 70chall440

      70chall440 Well-Known Member

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      Is this your car? What is it?
       
    • PAPA_E

      PAPA_E Well-Known Member

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      It’s mine, it’s a factory 383 4 speed 1966 charger. However I’m starting to question that. I mean the vin has it a 383 car but I’m unsure if it was a 4 speed as I pulled the trans today and idk if this is oem manual hump but it looks like somebody swapped the car.

      I attached a pic of the underside hump looking up from the ground.

      31FD6EAE-95CC-4B42-8670-80E0E4333100.jpeg
       
    • 70chall440

      70chall440 Well-Known Member

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      So, first things first;

      Your car did not come with a Dana originally, it should have a 8 3/4.

      As to the 4 speed, the hole does look a little "fabricated" but to be honest they were not pretty from the factory, I'd have to see the inside w/o the carpet.
       
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