Dodge coronet 1969 super bee Pro Touring Project

Resto-Mods & Pro-Touring forum

  1. Kamiel

    Kamiel Member

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    Hello Everybody,

    I'm in the process of building a Dodge coronet 1969 Super bee Pro touring. I've started already some time ago. I already bought a professional build 500CI stroker enginge, 727 freshly build by A&A, Hotchkiss TVS kit, 11'' disc brake kit. I will keep an overview of the things that are going to be used below for eacht department. The car was originally B5 blue, i'm not sure which colour it will get. I'm thinking now of a shade darker of B5 or Hemi orange, i have a a12 hood that I will use.

    Engine:
    500CI Stroker engine, specs will follow have to look them up
    Trans:
    727 build by A&A
    I'm considering to get a gear vendor for overdrive, 3 gears is not much…
    Suspension:
    Hotchkiss TVS
    Interior:
    Already have power window kit
    Already have almost everything new for the interior, like door panels, carpet, seat covers etc.
    Custom dash
    Vintage Air for ac etc
    Bucket seats
    Center Console
    Intellitronix create a dash (will be made into the rallye dash)
    Body
    New AMD:
    - One piece Trunk & extensions
    - L & R quarter panel
    - Full floor
    - Inner and Outer rocker
    - Window gutter repair
    - Trunk gutter pieces.

    The body was blasted first and is now alredy for some time at the bodyshop.
    They are almost ready with the sheetmetal, after that i will let them install the UScartool stiffening kit i bought and the Hotchkiss subframe connectors.

    So i'm still not sure about a few things:
    - Colour
    - Gear vendor or not?
    - I already have a 8.75 rear end with 741 case, a new complete 489 case is like 2500 dollar. - I'm thinking to switch to a ford 9''. For that money I have a aluminium case for the 9''
    - Keep the Hotchkiss TVS or go for coil over with 4 link in the rear?

    DSC05341[1].JPG DSC05400[1].JPG DSC05360[1].JPG DSC05405[1].JPG DSC05399[1].JPG IMG_20180503_185921[1].jpg IMG_20180503_184832[1].jpg IMG_20180503_184827[1].jpg IMG_20190709_214049[1].jpg IMG_20190608_080955[1].jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019
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    • Kamiel

      Kamiel Member

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      some more photo's of engine build, engine is painted black BTW:
      20171127_130930_resized_1[1].jpg 20171127_083622_resized_1(1)[1].jpg 20171127_083630_resized_1[1].jpg 20171127_083639_resized_1[1].jpg 20171127_084224_resized_1[1].jpg 20171127_084229_resized_1[1].jpg 20171127_092552_resized_1[1].jpg 20171127_092601_resized_1[1].jpg 20171127_105504_resized_1[1].jpg 20171127_115723_resized_1[1].jpg
       
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      • Kamiel

        Kamiel Member

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        And some more photo's of the bodywork and engine now. I will get this saturday some better photo's of how the body is at this moment.

        IMG-20190215-WA0000[1].jpg IMG-20190215-WA0001[1].jpg IMG-20190406-WA0002[1].jpeg
         
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        • 493 Mike

          493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          It looks like progress is being made. It takes time I know. My own PT project has been in the works since 2009-65 Belvedere II.
          Mike
           
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          • 68Moparmaniac

            68Moparmaniac Well-Known Member

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            Can't go wrong with a 4 link...just sayin
             
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            • moparnation74

              moparnation74 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Awesome build!

              Thanks for posting pics!
               
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              • Mocajava

                Mocajava FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                I'm with you...69 Coronet with stroker and 6 speed auto. Looks great and you are really moving on it.
                 
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                • Jeff Brundage

                  Jeff Brundage Well-Known Member

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                  Im nearing the end of building the same car. Having built a few over the years I seen people change directions in mid build and waste allot of money. If you already have the hotchkiss stick with it. If you do the rear 4 link then you’ll want to change the front then upgrade the brakes then bigger wheels and on and on. Stick with your plan. Build the 8 3/4 rear end you have, chances are you will never break it. I hear you cant go wrong with a gv od but I’ve never had one. I highly recommend getting all the sheetmetal done on the car and assembling everything and even drive the car before painting it. It seems like a waste of time and everyone thinks things are going to bolt together but they don’t. You have way more options with building a car before it’s painted. Drilling holes making brackets, running wires, lines, etc is easier before paint.Patience and planning are the cheapest way to build cars.
                   
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                  • Kamiel

                    Kamiel Member

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                    @Jeff Brundage
                    I already bought the hotchkiss TVS, I also already bought 11'' disc brakes. I thinks it is some good advice, because when I would do the 4 links I would get another axle, and probably bigger brakes also… Never ending story I guess.

                    I plan to complete the drivetrain ASAP, so putting engine on the k member with suspension, brakes and transmission. I also got the QA1 lower control arms in, so now I can weld the brackets for the front sway bar in... After that i can get the k member powdercoated and build the drivetrain.

                    I'm considering to go with manual steering, saves some weight and is much easier to build, no leaks, no power loss. What are good manual steering boxes? I also already have a quick ratio steering arm, if I also choose for a quick steering gear box will it be to much or not?
                     
                  • Darter6

                    Darter6 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    You hit the nail on the head !Never ending story or also known as the snowball effect..
                    I'm a stickler on "using what you have" mainly because I'm cheap and spend when I have to.
                    As far as the GV for the tranny I have a question. What are the roads like in the Netherlands where you live ? I ask because where I grew up the first part of my life it was big hills,back roads, lots of twist and turn roads with maybe a few meters of straight roads (see what I did there?:bananaweed:) So deeper gears,3.23 to 3.91 were the normal. Overdrive to me and at that time had no place.
                    Now I live out west with way open highways and stretches of straight roads that go for many kilometers ( did it again !)
                    Speed limits are 60 to 80 mph (ok I'm done with the metric stuff) most of the time. 3.23 gears with no overdrive feels like and sounds like the engine is screaming. 2.76 without OD and 2 cars with TKO 5 speeds works for the wide open deserts now.
                    I'm a fan of manual steering ,big block B body I would do a 20 to1 ratio max. I did a 72 big block B body with a Flaming River 16 to 1 with wide 40 series tires and it was a bear to drive at slow speeds.I swapped a 24 to1 back in to it.
                    You may want to consider the Borgeson power steering kit. We installed one in a 64 Dodge B body stationwagon and the car drives beautiful. I now want one for my car.
                    Keep at it,Great project !
                     
                  • Kamiel

                    Kamiel Member

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                    @Darter6
                    Roads here are super flat no mountains. So mainly long highways etc. So overdrive will be a nice thing, otherwise i have to choose really low rear end gears if I want to drive in reasonable RPM's. Thanks for using the metric system:)
                     
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                    • Kamiel

                      Kamiel Member

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                      How the body is now. Of the sheet metal only the left quarter needs to be done.

                      IMG_20190713_102855.jpg IMG_20190713_102846.jpg IMG_20190713_103018.jpg IMG_20190713_102932.jpg IMG_20190713_102923.jpg IMG_20190713_103008_1.jpg
                       
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                      • Kamiel

                        Kamiel Member

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                        I installed the spark plugs separator. Looks nice and clean. I want to buy the headers now. Which one should I choose? The TTI?

                        IMG_20190720_085803.jpg IMG_20190720_085810.jpg IMG_20190720_085818.jpg
                         
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                        • 493 Mike

                          493 Mike FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                          I think you might like Doug's headers.
                          Mike
                           
                        • Kamiel

                          Kamiel Member

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                          I'm considering to go for a efi setup. I also want to go and install a nos system. I want a small serperate fuel tank for the nos system. Does anybody have experience with efi and nos system combination?
                          Setup i'm thinking of now:
                          - Intank fuelpump
                          - Braided fuel line
                          - High pressure fuel regulator with return line
                          - MSD atomic EFI (because this can retard timing and adjust fuel supply for when using nos)
                          - Seperate 1gallon fuel tank for nos
                          - Elektric fuel pump for fuel system for nos

                          Do i also need a fuel regulator for the fuel system for the nos? Or what will the easiest way be to implement nos in efi system?
                           
                        • 451Mopar

                          451Mopar Well-Known Member

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                          Most of the new EFI setups adjust timing with or without NOS.
                          Not sure if all compensate to allow dry NOS setup with the injectors making up the fuel difference, and your injector size and fuel pump volume would need to be able to supply the extra fuel. I think the EFI systems handle wet NOS setups.

                          Mocajava has the whole Holley Sniper setup on his '69 Coronet. Just got done installing the fuel tank, fuel line plumbing, and pump and sender unit wiring. The TCI 6x trans has a lot of wires, but it looks to be mostly plug and play. I think it just needs power, RPM signal, and TPS signal. Was looking at getting TPS from the Sniper, but I don't think there is an external connection for TPS signal, so likely going to use TCIs cable operated TPS sensor. If you want stock trans tunnel, Gear Vendors, or maybe a 518 trans is a lot easier. Mocajave made a custom trans tunnel for the TCI 6x trans.
                           
                        • Kamiel

                          Kamiel Member

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                          Started to make the radiatora dn AC condensor fit. There is also a oil cooler on its way, hope I get it al fitting in there. Also started to mount the AC compressor, I need to get a longer bolt and some spacers for that. I like it on this position much better as where the AC compressor sits normally at the top.

                          IMG_20190810_131721.jpg IMG-20190810-WA0003.jpeg IMG-20190810-WA0000.jpeg
                           
                        • Budnicks

                          Budnicks You Can Just Thank Me Latter FBBO Gold Member

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                          Nice project :thumbsup:

                          I like your build style :lowdown:
                           
                        • JB400

                          JB400 69 Charger

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                          Looks good:thumbsup:
                           
                        • Kamiel

                          Kamiel Member

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                          Been a productive day today. Mounted the bulkheads for AC and heater and for wiring harness. All routed under the fender. And installed the inner fender braces and front brace from us cartool. I welded the front brace myself with co2. Was my first weld ever. Still have to smooth the welds out. And attached the door looms to run the cables to door through.

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