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Does anyone know the name of this part?

1969CoronetR/T

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Does anyone know the mane of the part that runs along the drip rail that covers the window track? It is the piece that is gouged in the picture.
Thanks,
Mark


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Snake Eyes suggested sanding the scratch out. Any one have any luck and what grit did you start and end with?
 
I'm sorry, I thought you meant the rubber. The channel you are talking about holds the rubber weatherstrip. I have never seen it available aftermarket. You can remove the entire channel and take it to a body shop to polish it out for you.
 
Is that piece chrome plated metal or stainless steel?

If it's stainless, I would Start with 320 or 400 and wet sand. Move up to 600, then 800, followed by 2000. Finish it up with a buffing wheel and some buffing wheel compound.


All materials can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, True Value or the likes. It can even be done while on the car. I would simply tape a sheet of plastic to the window and let the water and sanding particals run down it instead of on the car (not that it will hurt it). As far as the buffing with rouge, you may have to purchase an adapter for a 4" wheel to get it in a drill. Or you could use a dremel type tool with a white buffing/ polishing bit.

If it's chrome plated, you would likely need to remove it and get it replated.
 
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It is called a weather strip retainer or at least Ted Stephens calls it by that name. It might be easier to buy a used part as I can not sand anything since my heart catheterization last month. They went through my right wrist and my thumb has been acting up. Here are are a few pictures:

IMG_4233[1].jpgIMG_4234[1].jpg

Four stents in my right coronary with 90% two 80% and one 70% blockages.
 
Yes it is a weatherstrip retainer and 68-69 & 70 do have some design differences depending on build dates/body style so make sure you get one that matches if your particular. Those scratches can be worked but if you can't do that you probably can't change the piece either as it will require a good bit of hand work to change. I may have a good used one if you decide to replace it PM me. Hope you can find someone locally to help and sorry to hear about your physical condition
 
You can get pretty aggressive with stainless. I have smoothed stuff out with a file and proceeded from there to a polished surface. I even TIG welded cracks and used a hammer to form the metal flat prior to filing. With extensive material removal you will have a low spot, but you can loose a lot of defect if you blend the area over a large distance.
 
It your referring to the stainless steel trim piece that your showing with the scratches, it's referred to as a "Drip Rail Molding".
 
Yes, the piece of stainless that the windows hit when rolled up. My window stainless trim piece hit it a few times as it was misaligned.
 
Wow! Amazing pics. Its cool, the things you learn on here. Just a suggestion, 1969 Coronet. Walk around the block every day (if the doc says its OK of course). And add distance to your walks as time goes on. Will help your circulation a lot. We need Mopar guys around for a long time! Good luck.
 
I used to run 5 miles a day with my weimaraners until my first daughter was born six years ago. I decided to take a few months off and that lasted for six years as two more daughters followed the first. Funny thing is that my right wrist started to bother me and my left wrist would get a tingling sensation. Lasted a few minutes then would go away. My right wrist would intensify and then my ears started to hurt. Luckily I decided to go to the ER as my brother had open heart at age 33. The ER nurse did not want to run my blood to check for an enzyme that indicates heart problems. I told her to get the ER doctor in to explain my family history and the Er doctor ran my blood and noticed the enzyme was high. I never had a heart attach, no sweats, no chest pain and no left arm pain. Listen to your body and not some know it all nurse (or doctor). Take care of yourself.
Thanks,
Mark
 
You can get pretty aggressive with stainless. I have smoothed stuff out with a file and proceeded from there to a polished surface. I even TIG welded cracks and used a hammer to form the metal flat prior to filing. With extensive material removal you will have a low spot, but you can loose a lot of defect if you blend the area over a large distance.

Right - need to start with a fine file and then progress to 220, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, etc. A needle file set from sears may be aggresive enough for those marks - hard to tell from the picture. The exact sandpaper grits aren't critical - it just needs to be progressive and avoid large gaps between grits. Then follow up with some metal polish.
 
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