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Does this make sense? sticking caliper

I have had this happen on 2 different vehicles. Maybe these experiences will help you diagnose your problem...
67 Satellite with original 4 piston caliper power disks - car had semi-metallic pads when I got it. I switched to organic pads after restoration thinking it would reduce rotor wear - new hoses, rebuilt calipers, same rotors (1-piece hub/rotor which I don't think were original), DOT 5 fluid. Brakes would start dragging as I drove it and get progressively worse the more I drove. Happened during shakedown runs after resto so thankfully I didn't drive it enough to warp the rotors. Put new semi-metallic pads on and the problem went away. Still no issues 30 years later. I don't remember if I compared pad thickness between the 2 types so the organic pads may have been too thick though they weren't any harder to install. My other guess was that the organic pads were swelling as they heated.

2001 Dakota R/T - truck chewed up brakes from new - I do drive it somewhat aggressively. Was especially bad after driving somewhere, usually less than 10-15 miles, stopping for a short time and then driving back. Brakes would feel fine on the way there, but the pedal would be hard and could feel brakes dragging when I'd go to leave. Once they started dragging, they would continue to get worse the more I drove to the point where it felt like I was standing on the brake pedal. Warped the rotors so put on new pads, new rotors at ~20k miles. Warped them again - this time new pads, new rotors, new calipers. 3rd time it happened I changed to drilled & slotted rotors and problem went away. I now have more miles on those rotors, with the same pads and calipers as #2, than the first 2 rotor sets combined. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the solid rotors couldn't shed heat fast enough so it would build up and either the rotors were expanding or it was causing the fluid to expand or boil.

Solutions were different, but both times it was related to heat buildup in the braking system. I have had hoses go bad and lock up brakes, but never both sides at the same time.
 
You open the bleeder at caliper and it doesn't release pressure, sure points to the caliper. After 12hrs of cooling they free up. So may be some level of corrosion on the piston that cause it to stick when heated up or some other heat related bearing issue. Proportioning valve is on the rear line controlling pressure rise to rear brakes, the front is independent.
 
A friend said he had a master cylinder create this problem on his car. I would think when I opened the bleeder valve that would of let the caliper spin. OReilly said they would replace the calipers. Guess I will find out. Thanks to all
 
You open the bleeder at caliper and it doesn't release pressure, sure points to the caliper. After 12hrs of cooling they free up. So may be some level of corrosion on the piston that cause it to stick when heated up or some other heat related bearing issue. Proportioning valve is on the rear line controlling pressure rise to rear brakes, the front is independent.
I was wrong this morning calipers are still sticking.
 
Have you got the right disc brake master cylinder? It sounds like you might have drum brake master cylinder on there. Disc brake master cylinder has no residual pressure valve in front circuit, allowing pressure to drop back to zero.
 
Have you got the right disc brake master cylinder? It sounds like you might have drum brake master cylinder on there. Disc brake master cylinder has no residual pressure valve in front circuit, allowing pressure to drop back to zero.
I never replaced the MC, I believe manual with disc is the 15/16 bore MC. Trying to find the new one I have from 4 years ago thinking of swapping the MC out.
 
I never replaced the MC, I believe manual with disc is the 15/16 bore MC. Trying to find the new one I have from 4 years ago thinking of swapping the MC out.
What for? If you cracked the bleeders and the calipers are still dragging the problem is not in the hydraulic system. Its in the calipers. END OF STORY.
 
Bad hoses are a pretty common failure but if you had read the first post he states the hoses are new... So both new hoses being bad is unlikely.....
WTF is with you people?? Just because the ****'s new doesn't mean it's good! I've seen **** fail after a year!!! Your point is very wrong and contradictory!
 
Bad hoses are a pretty common failure but if you had read the first post he states the hoses are new... So both new hoses being bad is unlikely.....
WTF is with you people?? Just because the ****'s new doesn't mean it's good! I've seen **** fail after a year!!! Your point is very wrong and contradictory!

His comment was right to the point. Having two bad hoses at the same time is like the odds of winning the Power Ball Lottery.
 
Bore size of MC really has nothing to do with if it's disk or drum.
It may have something to do with whether it's power or manual.

Residual valve in the system does have to do with disk or drum.

You should be able to turn the rotor by hand with some resistance.

You should also be able to force the piston back enough to turn the rotor freely by carefully prying with an "object" that won't cock the piston or mar the rotor.

...without the bleeder open.
 
The problem is total neglect. You stopped paying attention to the Super Bee as soon as you bought that Charger. You should drive your car more often. You should sell me the Charger and spend more time driving the Bee. Problem solved. :poke: :lol:
 
The problem is total neglect. You stopped paying attention to the Super Bee as soon as you bought that Charger. You should drive your car more often. You should sell me the Charger and spend more time driving the Bee. Problem solved. :poke: :lol:
love you Mike,straight to the point.:thumbsup:
 
Well installed the new calipers and they stick. Open the bleeder valve and it sprayed out. Pulled the MC and look at what I found. Guess everything was plugged up and thats why it did not spray out the first time.

IMG_20230611_090620.jpg
 
So 2 problems. Bad Caliper and MC. Symptoms match now, as opening bleeds on new caliper released pressure.

I had the MC issue on my car when I first got it. Drove fine for a few days, then pulling into the garage the front disc locked up. Cracked bleed on one and it released. MC had issues.
 
Well installed the new calipers and they stick. Open the bleeder valve and it sprayed out. Pulled the MC and look at what I found. Guess everything was plugged up and thats why it did not spray out the first time.

View attachment 1477884
Dave, please stop tearing stuff up on the Bee. We’re never going to get finished with the Charger if you don’t stop. :poke: :lol:
 
Well installed the new calipers and they stick. Open the bleeder valve and it sprayed out. Pulled the MC and look at what I found. Guess everything was plugged up and thats why it did not spray out the first time.

View attachment 1477884
In your very first post you said you opened the bleeders and there was no pressure.
 
In your very first post you said you opened the bleeders and there was no pressure.
yep calipers were plugged I believe. When I opened the bleeder the first time it drooled,thats why I thought it was the calipers and not the MC.
 
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