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Door Hinge Pins?

rp23g7

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I think this goes here.

The drivers door on the 69 Coronet need new hinge pins, the door wont close correctly without a little help.

What is involved in replacing the bushings or pins, or what ever is in there?

Bang out the pin and bushing if there is one and bang it back in?

Rest the door on a box or something, support it by hand?

Never actually done this before
 
Alot depends on the condition of the hinge itself, has it been let go and affected the bore diameter for the pin bushing? Is it oversize? If it's a case of the bushing alone being worn and not totaly destroyed, a simple pin and bushing kit can be installed. I bought a kit off of ebay for my 66 for cheap and it worked fine.
The overhaul usually involves R&I of your door, removal of the old pins, replacement of the bushings, reinstalling new pins & retainers and reinstallation of your door. If you can avoid removing the hinge from the A pillar this will save you alot of time trying to realign the door, which is an art in itself.
I am rebuilding my car so everything came apart, was painted, detailed and reassembled.
 
OR you could get the top hinge from the passenger's side and swap it in. They are the same, and are used less so are usually good
 
Alot depends on the condition of the hinge itself, has it been let go and affected the bore diameter for the pin bushing? Is it oversize? If it's a case of the bushing alone being worn and not totaly destroyed, a simple pin and bushing kit can be installed. I bought a kit off of ebay for my 66 for cheap and it worked fine.
The overhaul usually involves R&I of your door, removal of the old pins, replacement of the bushings, reinstalling new pins & retainers and reinstallation of your door. If you can avoid removing the hinge from the A pillar this will save you alot of time trying to realign the door, which is an art in itself.
I am rebuilding my car so everything came apart, was painted, detailed and reassembled.

HMMM, the hinge/pins dont look too bad. THe door sags just enough where the latch hits the edge of the reciever thingy on the body.

Removing the door sounds scary, lots of trial and error goes through my head there.
 
You don't need to remove the entire door. Just open it and put a jack under the end and remove the upper hinge.
 
I guess i mis-read the over haul part there. Thanks, i will see if i can go get a pin/bushing kit
 
Removing the door is not difficult and is the only way to successfully change your pins. In order to remove the door with little realignment unbolt the door from the hinge. Before you loosen anything use masking tape or a marker to outline the position of the hinge relative to the door, this will aid you with initial re-installation once the hinge overhaul has been completed. To remove the door with little grief, support the door with a floor jack and a cushioning material so you don't scratch the bottom of the door. Prior to removal, have a planned place to rest your door. Clean cardboard and a blanket work good for that. Once those ducks are out of the way, begin door removal by unbolting the lower hinge first (once the hinges are marked for position and the door is supported) then proceed with the upper hinge bolts. Mask the rocker panel and door/fender edges if you are concerned about chipping the paint at all. An extra set of hands is very helpful at this point.

Once the door is off the car, and depending what tools you have access to, overhauling the hinge is possible without removing the hinge from the A pillar. The most difficult part of door alignment is the hinge to A pillar step...if you don't have to remove it, don't!

Once the new bushings/pins have been installed, reverse the order you removed the door with.

Good luck!
 
yes, 66 B Body has got it on the head. I think the last kit I used had .382" Dia bronze bushings. I used a .381" dia. drill to open the hole and they work great. Just mic the O.D. of the new bushing when you get the kit. I used the same kit as 66 B. Good luck.
 
Its an easy fix, take your time. do both doors while your at it. You can also touch up or clean the A post areas with easy access.
 
if you don't feel like doing it yourself I do offer a rebuild service
 
Alot depends on the condition of the hinge itself, has it been let go and affected the bore diameter for the pin bushing? Is it oversize? If it's a case of the bushing alone being worn and not totaly destroyed, a simple pin and bushing kit can be installed. I bought a kit off of ebay for my 66 for cheap and it worked fine.
The overhaul usually involves R&I of your door, removal of the old pins, replacement of the bushings, reinstalling new pins & retainers and reinstallation of your door. If you can avoid removing the hinge from the A pillar this will save you alot of time trying to realign the door, which is an art in itself.
I am rebuilding my car so everything came apart, was painted, detailed and reassembled.
Help! I have a 66 belvedere too that the doors and hinges were taken off of. I know what you mean about aligning those things being an art.. Ant tips you can give me to get them back on perfectly? Seems noatter what I try the things are either off up top or done by the rockers stick out too far.
 
Well...we'll give it a try. If your hinges are in good condition life is much easier for a start. Also, it would be easier to accomplish this with the front fender off the car, I am not sure what state your car is in. Keep in mind we are aligning the door to the rocker/quarter panel, not the fender.

There are a few ways to go about this depending if the striker has been removed or adjusted out of position. If it has not been adjusted, you can latch the door closed and then loosen off the hinges at the A pillar and position the door for height and length and snug up the hinges. Now the correct order here would be to loosen the two inner upper and lower fasteners and leave them loose enough to move but so they will not allow the hinge to pull away from the A pillar during adjustment. The outer A pillar hinge bolt(s) is the one we will use for adjustment. Now I am assuming the fender is off or the splash shield is out of the way to gain access to the forward hinge bolt. Don't worry about the in/out adjustment yet, that's the last step. I use plastic fibre sticks that auto glass installers use for initial gap spacing, the are 3/16" or 5 mm in thickness which is a little tight for our MoPars but its a good starting point. Close (latch) the door, loosen off the upper and lower hinge pillar bolts and carefully insert the fibersticks at the front of the rocker and the rear close to the 1/4 panel. Now look at the door to the 1/4 pnl gap. Does it match the rocker gap? Don't be too worried about the overall height, that can be adjusted later. slide the door forward/rearward as required, then snug up the two front outer hinge bolts. Now try the door, it will probably drop a little as you open it, no worries, all you have to do is have an extra pair of hands lift slightly up on the door (while slightly open) and loosen the lower hinge outer bolt to allow the hinge to move slightly rearward. Tighten and try to close, make adjustments as necessary. Ideally at this time you should remove the striker, this will allow you to do the final adjustments without having the striker influence the fit. At this time the door should be square in the opening (rocker/1/4 pnl) but requires lateral/vertical adjustment. before proceeding, tighten the inner A pillar hinge bolts upper/lower.
Have a look at those beautiful body lines...does the door need to go up or down? Height is first here, in/out 2nd. If height adjustment is required, then all 5 (3)upper and (2)lower hinge to door bolts are loosened and adjust for height. Always use the uppermost bolt on the upper hinge as the first to be tightened, then the lower. Once height is good, loosen off only the lower hinge and swing the door into alignment with the rocker/lower body line on the 1/4, leave the lower 2 bolts on the upper hinge loose during this adjustment...once the door is aligned to the lower, snug one of the lower door hinge bolts and proceed to adjusting the upper hinge into alignment with the top of the 1/4 panel/upper body line. Of course when everything fits...tighten her all up, sit back and have a beer...This is a difficult task to accomplish and takes patience, it can take an experienced guy a fair bit of time...let me know how it goes or if I can be of more assistance.


Cheers...J
 
Kits to to both doors can be found all over e-bay for about $15 including shipping. You might have to overboar the holes if you dont want to do this most any machine shop will do this ffor you for way less tha the cost of new hinges. best wishes on your project!
 
Thanks, I got the gaps fixed with your method and the upper door to quarter. Now I can't get the lower door to quarter to line up. The corner of the door sticks out past the quarter about a 1/4 of an inch and that's as close as I can get it. Doesn't look like there is enough adjustment left in the lower door hinge to move it in? Any suggestions. Other than that it looks prrettt good.
 
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