Door skin advice

[Robking]

A little background, door must have gotten up against something high, it was caved in along the front edge at the top (hope you can see where I circled).

Ground the skin off and cleaned up the shell, rebuilt the hinges so working with something stable.

Getting ready to take the shell back off and try to bring that leading edge in to alignment with the curve of the fender (which has not been wrecked). Note after this picture I brought the bottom of the shell further in a smidge. Lines up pretty cleanly except the top 8 inches or so. And at the very top, it lines back up well there too.

The gap at it's worst is probably 3/16". Looking at it I feel like I'm going to have to bend the front edge of the shell to a 30 degree angle. I've probably drank a case of beer staring at that shell, and while I can see it's flattened some it just seems too far out of whack. I've tried to apply my martin metal working book learnin' to reversing the damage, but damned if I see it.

I'm probably over thinking it, but figure there are a lot of sharp people on here that have done this before. Any advice (except find another door ) is greatly appreciated.

Let me add, it ain't a show car, but when I can I want to do it right.

Thanks as always!

 

[slimt]

That on a door skin?

 

[Robking]

Yeah, trying to get the shell front edge straight before putting the new skin on.

 

[slimt]

If I was in your position. Take the door to a good body shop. Get the tech to clamp the front part of the door and pull it forward so it lines up with the fender. The tech can clamp the rear part of the door to a structure so it keeps the pull process rigid. As the front is being pulled the crease can be dollied out from the inside out with minimal stretching. You could do it. But you may require some eyelet clamps.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

I hope you had door on n aligned before you took old skin off, its going to be real hard to get fitment rite.You should try pulling door out at top a little more n than adjust the bottom.You should have shell on,it will be the final fitment and alignment,you are trying to align some thing that does not dictate the final gaps .

 

[Robking]

I hope you had door on n aligned before you took old skin off, its going to be real hard to get fitment rite.You should try pulling door out at top a little more n than adjust the bottom

I wish, when I bought it the guy had stuck it on with a couple of bolts. It's not even a 68, actually off a 69.

 

[Robking]

If I was in your position. Take the door to a good body shop. Get the tech to clamp the front part of the door and pull it forward so it lines up with the fender. The tech can clamp the rear part of the door to a structure so it keeps the pull process rigid. As the front is being pulled the crease can be dollied out from the inside out with minimal stretching. You could do it. But you may require some eyelet clamps.

Thanks, I definitely see what you're saying. Are these the clamps?

 

[slimt]

Thanks, I definitely see what you're saying. Are these the clamps?

View attachment 1153342

Yes. They work great. Just dont over pull. I myself have made a 2x6 base so the door fits in at the bottom. To hold it upright. Or you can lay shell side down If you have a slide hammer. You can use that in the eyelet to pull with a jolt. Little at a time so you dont over pull.

If you have the shell lined up. Just buy a new skin if you can. Then theres no. reason to pull anything.

 

[eldubb440]

put skin on frame, hammer the edges over ....... do NOT weld anything......hang the door on the car......

the door frame and skin will be able to be "twisted" or "flexed"........ it will move a lot, this will change the height at the rear of the door; and pull the corners in or out...... there is a ton of wiggle room....... when you find the happy spot, 2 small tacks will hold it....... follow through from there

if you tack the skin to the frame prematurely or prior to hanging you probably won't get it to fit

 

[slimt]

Yeah, trying to get the shell front edge straight before putting the new skin on.

View attachment 1153326

hows the gap with the door closed?

 

[Robking]

Yes. They work great. Just dont over pull. I myself have made a 2x6 base so the door fits in at the bottom. To hold it upright. Or you can lay shell side down If you have a slide hammer. You can use that in the eyelet to pull with a jolt. Little at a time so you dont over pull.

If you have the shell lined up. Just buy a new skin if you can. Then theres no. reason to pull anything.

Sorry, should have put that up front, have a brand new AMD skin that I've already shot the inside with epoxy, ready to go on. Just don't want the shell to pull the new skin out of shape.

I never even thought about being able to pull that skin back in to shape, that's pretty cool!

 

[slimt]

Sorry, should have put that up front, have a brand new AMD skin that I've already shot the inside with epoxy, ready to go on. Just don't want the shell to pull the new skin out of shape.

I never even thought about being able to pull that skin back in to shape, that's pretty cool!

As long as you have that shell lined up with the quarter. As edubb said. Fit prior to bending all the edges. Make sure if you have upper inners for installed if required for felting . The fender moves. The quarter does not.

 

[Robking]

put skin on frame, hammer the edges over ....... do NOT weld anything......hang the door on the car......

the door frame and skin will be able to be "twisted" or "flexed"........ it will move a lot, this will change the height at the rear of the door; and pull the corners in or out...... there is a ton of wiggle room....... when you find the happy spot, 2 small tacks will hold it....... follow through from there

if you tack the skin to the frame prematurely or prior to hanging you probably won't get it to fit

Thanks, this is spot on with everything I've read so far. Once I get the shell to closely line up with the fender I plan to punch the holes in the new skin and fold the edges till I can still just "skooch" the skin around with a little persuasion. Once it's all lined up and gaps are good tack it a couple places.

 

[Robking]

So all this good discussion made me go back and look closer, and I think whoever slathered all that Bondo on the door originally hammered that leading edge flatter before mudding it. I put a straight edge on the back side and can see it's bulged out some. Passenger door feels perfectly flat in that same area.

I may just need to take the shell and my contour gauge to a good body shop and have them work it back. Getting a little nervous I might make it worse than better.

 

[slimt]

As long as you have a even gap on the quarter side. And rocker. The front will just require tweeking. So the skin sits nice. I see you have epoxy on it. Thats good.

just remember not to have the shell out to far. Prior to skinning. It should be inset of the fender. You have the latch in the shell?

 

[slimt]

A complete picture with the door closed.
And a picture of the gap on the fender to the shell

 

[slimt]

From this picture. This is what I see. Im refering to the shell gap. Thats all. Otherwize it looks fine

Pop the skin on a see how it fits.

 

[Robking]

As long as you have a even gap on the quarter side. And rocker. The front will just require tweeking. So the skin sits nice. I see you have epoxy on it. Thats good.

just remember not to have the shell out to far. Prior to skinning. It should be inset of the fender. You have the latch in the shell?

Yeah that's where it is positioned now, just inset from fender top to bottom. And good point on the latch, I will put the latch back on the door and car and get it setup before going any further.

This car is a freaking labor of love. This is what I had to do just to get to this point. What ever hit it to destroy the original door must have yanked the damn thing open. Still haven't figured out how the rest of the car can be so straight but have this kind of damage.

 

[Robking]

From this picture. This is what I see. Im refering to the shell gap. Thats all. Otherwize it looks fine
View attachment 1153356

Pop the skin on a see how it fits.

Thanks again for all the help, much appreciated. I will get the latch setup and get some better pictures of the gaps.

 

[slimt]

Yeah that's where it is positioned now, just inset from fender top to bottom. And good point on the latch, I will put the latch back on the door and car and get it setup before going any further.

This car is a freaking labor of love. This is what I had to do just to get to this point. What ever hit it to destroy the original door must have yanked the damn thing open. Still haven't figured out how the rest of the car can be so straight but have this kind of damage.

View attachment 1153357
View attachment 1153358

Not everyone wanted Maaco to touch there car. So some will try to make it work themselves. Its alot of fun to do. Sometimes difficult. But patience is key. Enjoy your project.

There are alot of talented folks on this site. Ive learned alot from those as well.