Dr. Diff upgrade kit
- Thread starter dmoore
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Mike67
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Not exactly your scenario but I ordered a Power-Lok and gears from Cass. Great guy to deal with!
Darter6
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Yes, just did a 63. Dr.Diff (Cass) is the best guy to work with.
I bought his axles with green bearings,gaskets,seals,housing studs need to be changed to longer ones.
had my own backing plates,the 65 up ones,and reused the drums after cutting the swedge from the studs.
I usually buy from him at the Mopar Vegas show. But I have mail ordered many times from him too.
I bought his axles with green bearings,gaskets,seals,housing studs need to be changed to longer ones.
had my own backing plates,the 65 up ones,and reused the drums after cutting the swedge from the studs.
I usually buy from him at the Mopar Vegas show. But I have mail ordered many times from him too.
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I really like the swap. Nothing wrong with taypered axles at all but swapping out the center section, doing brake work, using drums that are still available, the conversion makes things easier.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...p-new-residence.114133/page-11#post-910731376
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...p-new-residence.114133/page-11#post-910731376
chooch
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Not to Hi Jack this thread but has anybody tried this as it seems like a pretty good idea & I'm kinda stuck with leaving the tapered axles in a few of my cars..
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html
http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html
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That's a good alternative also. A bit cheaper. Article by a member on here. (Forgive me for forgetting who)
chooch
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I can't think of or see anything wrong with doing it that way especially for a trailer queen with an occasional light blast down the track especially if you have to keep the tapered axles for looks & appearances ??
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What I liked about using the flanged axle kit was everything was new and Dr. Diffs axles are actually stronger than a factory flanged axle. They are the same thickness the whole lenth of the axle.
The main reason I went with the new style axle was the fact that I was changing the center section from a open rear to a Sure Grip. The taypered axles in a open rear are a smigit longer than a Sure Grip equipped rear. So in order to change center sections I would need to find a set of taypered axles from a Sure Grip rear or grind or machine the correct amount off of the original axles. Then I would have to try and properly shim the endplay. In my opinion it was just easier to buy the kit.
The 1962 rear housing is the narrowest of all of the B Bodies. I've see people change to the newer housings ('65 and newer) and either the wheel and tire stuck out too far or they used a different back space wheel which really looked odd.
The taypered axles were used back in the '60s behind Hemis with four speed transmissions. I had the opportunity to ask Bill Jenkins how they held up when he was racing the '64s. He replied with "You broke one now and then, then you replaced it!" He was a card!
chooch
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I totally agree with you & your right if they ran them with the 62-64 max wedge & probably some hemi cars I really doubt anybody would have any serious issues unless they are all out racing them with big tires & HP.
My 65 plymouth awb has a 63 rear in it with the axle conversion but for some reason I'm thinking my axles are moshers either way it works out great for running bigger tires with no issues but my two 63's I will just do the drum conversion for ease of brake work & to keep the correct look.
Darter6
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Chooch, Thanks for post #5. I have a 64 rear that was done the same way.It has a 2.76 sure grip that I plan on using in a slant six B body project. Nothing wrong using the flange axle. I know guys with the early Max Wedge drag cars that are racing with them.
Kid I just yesterday went back through your thread on all this & more. Thank you for taking the time & effort to document your work for us guys. I didn't realize, or forgot S/G tapered axles are a bit longer. No worries here because I will be buying everything new including a 3.55 S/G. I emailed Dr. Diff yesterday for a quote on it all. Once done I will probably, insert "hopefully" never have to pull a drum with so few miles put on her....but.......good to know it wont be a PIA if I do! Thanks buddy! You Rockl!
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I'm not sure. I thought someone said they got everything they needed, leading me to think he did.
You can get a used set from almost any newer 8 3/4 rear. 10"x 2.5 drum is the norm. The width of the drum is important for the depth of the backing plate. Diameter is a given. Mine came from a 70's B body and that was what I used when ordering parts and drums.
Sure Grip taypered axles are a bit shorter than the ones used on a open rear. Approx 1/8"
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The center hole in the backing plate that the axle goes through is much smaller on the taypered axle rear. Some have opened it up but it has to be rather precise. Hardware and e-brake cable can be reused.
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