Drip Rail Moldings

[cbunt1]

I'm sure this has been asked/answered before, in fact, I think I've seen it, but I can't seem to put my hands on it right now -- my google-fu isn't so good tonight.

On a '72 Satty/Roadrunner, I know the part numbers show to be different between the drip rail moldings for a vinyl-top car, and a painted-top car -- but can anyone tell me the actual difference? I know that part numbers show different between the drip rails for a 71-72 charger and a 71-72 Satty, but I've also been told they're interchangeable in practice...I'm wondering if this is the same story for vinyl vs. painted top...

And if not, is there any definitive way to tell which I need? The car doesn't currently have a vinyl top, but I can't confirm through my fender tag searches that it was originally a painted top, nor whether I have the original top on the car (some panels have been replaced at least two owners ago). I guess what I'm asking here is whether the difference is "fit" or "cosmetic"

 

[Mogre]

From what I recall, the vinyl top trim is wider to allow for the thickness of the vinyl. The inside of the wider vinyl trim has a blueish coloring to show the difference. Thats the way it was in 68. Hope this helps.

 

[cbunt1]

That's a good start. If the difference is in the width of the trim, it may not affect the actual fit of the trim against the steel railing on the car -- in other words, it may not be "correct" but if it fits my roof panel, and looks better than the painted metal physical rail, I may be better off than I am now...

 

[Mogre]

They are a spring pressure fit. The narrower trim won't fit over vinyl. The wider trim (blue) can be crimped with channel locks to
tighten up to the painted rail. Be very careful, you want the tweaks under the rail out of sight. Good luck.

 

[cbunt1]

GOTCHA...that makes sense. So the physical channel on the car should be the same either way, and the thicker moulding compensates for the thickness of the vinyl over the metal rail on the car...

Excellent info, and Thank you!

 

[moparmarks]

Molding for V-top will fit real loose on non v top and will fall off. Will pretty much damage a non v top molding trying to install over a v-top.
That's interesting about the blueish coloring on the V-top moldings.
71/2 Charger and 73/4 Plymouth moldings curl down end the rear end.
71/2 Plymouth and 73/4 Charger are straight on the end. Even thought they have different part numbers I can't find any difference between the 71/2 and 73/4 of the same style. Have a 73/4 Charger molding on my 72 Plymouth.
You do need v-top or non depending on what you cars is.

- - - Updated - - -

Guess should add that 73/4 Charger SE molding are way different. Cut short at top of door.

 

[cbunt1]

Thanks, Mark! this info really helps me understand what I'm dealing with. It appears I need 71-72 Plymouth or 73-74 Dodge trim, and specifically for non-vinyl roof (since mine's painted, regardless of how it came from the factory).

As always, knowing what you need is the biggest part of the battle in putting these cars back together...

 

[Moparparts]

Vinyl top trim can be used on a non vinyl application all you need to do is apply a thin strip of rubber adhesive on the edge of the roof painted drip edge it works just like the vinyl would be there. Earlier A/B-Bodies used this in small pieces on the A-Pillar trim pieces may times from the factory. Also non vinyl trim can also be used on vinyl trim applications if you need to you just run the vinyl top material into the gutter instead of bringing it out over the painted drip edge then you seal the groove with black window urethane and it will never come loose if prepped and installed correctly. Many upholstery shops even do this its easier and avoids come backs with vinyl coming loose down in the gutter later