Driveshaft length

[moparman73]

Anybody know offhand if the driveshaft will need to be cut to go from an 8-1/4 to 8-3/4 rear in my 73 charger? If so, how much--any body done it recently that might remember?

Also, how do I get rid of those silly isolators on the leaf springs? Will 71-72 leaf springs just bolt in?

Thanks, Mike

 

[moparman73]

Anybody????????

 

[Kernel Sanders]

If you look at column (C) you can calculate the difference between the 8.25 and 8.75 centerline to U joint centerline. The difference being 0.66" therefore your driveshaft should be shortened by that amout when changing from 8.25 to 8.75. It looks to be very little difference but you definately do not want any bind between the pumkin and the trans.

PS There may be errors in the widths listed on this sheet (A) column

 

[gocubzgo]

Thanks for this chart Kernel. Been wondering the same thing about my 72 Satellite. Will also be able to verify that my 8 3/4 is correct for 71-74 B bodies. Can you let us know where the chart is from?

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Hmmm this chart has been floating around the net for a long time but many dont like it as it is misleading(out and out wrong) on the ABody 8.75 housing length flange to flange.

For more detailed info the following link is more detailed on housing and perch dimensions;
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html

Actually I have been looking for a 71/72 8.75 housing, axles, shock plates and springs to replace the 9.25 in my 74 Charger. I do have a complete EBody 8.75 rear which I can use but it's a little short and would rather not have to use spacers. I just want to change it out for not only ease of swaping pumpkins but to eliminate the ISO crap. LOL