Early B Body Headers for RB

[Stumper]

What are you 62-65' guys that have an RB motor with max wedge head ports and manual steering and brakes running for headers? Can you post pictures?
I have been thinking about replacing my headers and looking for some options. I would really like SS headers with at least a 2" tube and 3.5" or 4" collector but not sure what's out there these days. I currently run a set of ????? that have 2.25" primary to 2.125" into 4" collectors with the collectors that slip over the tube ends. This set has the front and back cylinder tube separate from the middle two and the back cylinder wraps the frame. I am looking to replace for two reasons, one is apprearance (these are painted black steel and are a PITA to keep nice) and secondly I'd like to go to a set with a welded on collector to try to reduce fumes in the cockpit.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Weld yours up and send them out to Jet Hot or another company that does that.Not sure anyone makes SS headers for your application,check with Cooks headers or a fabricator to make a set to fit right the 1st time

 

[5.7 hemi]

Wouldn't it be kinda hard to weld up a set of 2 piece headers? Just asking cause he said they wrap around the frame rail. Have ya tried TTI?

 

[383man]

I use these 2" TTI headers with the 3.5" collector. Pricey but the best header I have ever used. Ron

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Wouldn't it be kinda hard to weld up a set of 2 piece headers? Just asking cause he said they wrap around the frame rail. Have ya tried TTI?

The atvantage of slpit flange is being able to change the starter without removing the whole header.My left side header is a 3 piece!

 

[5.7 hemi]

Ah, that makes total sense....didn't think of that, good call.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

what it would cost you to re

weld your existing headers. Sell yours and buy a nice set of tti or hookers

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what it would cost you to re

weld your existing headers. Sell yours and buy a nice set of tti or hookers

 

[Stumper]

If I were to weld them up they would never come off the motor again... I'm not sure if the first three cylinders on each side may be able to go in and out as a unit - with the motor lifted up, but the back tubes wrap the frame so they definitely would be there for good.
I'd sell these and buy a new set - but that's the purpose of the post - to see what others might be using on their early B with max wedge heads.

 

[coloradodave]

These are CPPA (early TTI) 2" into 3 1/2" collectors. Power brakes, power steering. Tight fit at pitman arm ( had to cold bend arm to gain clearance) and mini starter. Other than that, no interference problems. One piece, no leaks.

 

[Stumper]

Coloradodave - thanks for the pictures. How is plug access with these? Is that ceramic coating? I can't see your steering shaft in the picture - no problems with it? Can you get these on and off without lifting the motor?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Dang Dave. That is super beautiful. I'm droolin.

These are CPPA (early TTI) 2" into 3 1/2" collectors. Power brakes, power steering. Tight fit at pitman arm ( had to cold bend arm to gain clearance) and mini starter. Other than that, no interference problems. One piece, no leaks.

 

[crossram 426]

Hi Dave, awesome pipes...may need these ones myself. They look great, are they still available from tti?

 

[coloradodave]

Coloradodave - thanks for the pictures. How is plug access with these? Is that ceramic coating? I can't see your steering shaft in the picture - no problems with it? Can you get these on and off without lifting the motor?[/QUOTE)

Plug access isn't great. I heated the pipes and gently 'massaged' them to gain extra clearance. No problem burning plug boots now. The finish is VHT flat aluminum paint. Cheap and holds up really well. No problems with steering shaft. Don't have to lift the motor to remove headers. Just drop the tie rod off the idler arm and get car up 18" or so. Keep in mind that these are EARLY TTI. They have updated them to clear the pitman arm, and yes, crossram426, they are still available.

 

[383man]

Here is a few more pics of my 2" TTI's. Ron

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I really dont have any good pics of the pass side. This while installing the eng. Ron

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Last one. Ron

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I found one more that gives you a good idea of how thick the flanges are. Nice thick flanges that never warp. Plugs are easy to get to but these are angled plugs in the Indy EZ heads. Ron

 

[Stumper]

I have 440-1 heads on mine which also have angled plugs and the max wedge ports. Manual steering nd brakes. I definitely don't want to drop below 2" tubes, preferably staying a bit over. I think I'd like to try some SS headers too. I've had bad luck with all types of "header paint" and from what I ready online the ceramic coatings are not that durable either.

 

[coloradodave]

IMO the key to getting and keeping a good finish on headers is the preparation. I always media blast them to get the factory finish off and then wipe them down with Dupont Prep-Sol. I like VHT header paint and have been using it for over 35 years. Heat the headers up to room temperature (the paint as well) and give them 3 light coats and then hang them in a warm room for a few days. Always turn out nice for me and if you bugger one up it's easy to touch up.

 

[GrabberOrange69]

Stumper, if you have a set of vintage headers that are still sound, but the finish just needs work, I echo the others that have said get them jet hot coated. I think you'll be glad you did. What you have already has been "clearanced" for you application, plus vintage headers are cool. Just my $.02, but you'll never see another pair like you have now - flaunt it!

 

[Stumper]

Getting them coated would take care of the appearance issue but I still have the problem with the collector being a slip on type that leaks. I do wish that I would have gotten them coated the last time I had them off when the motor was overhauled.