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Ease of Removing Lift Off Hood

oldchevelle541

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These A12's are great and I always thought it would be great to own one. The one thing that has held me back is the thought of removing the hood and re-installing the same by myself and not damaging anything. When us guys approach our mid-sixties and our backs aren't what they used to be that has to be a consideration. Then when you are at the shows what do you do with it especially on a windy day. I don't care to see them placed on the roof of the car as that IMO is just inviting another potential problem. I am curious what the A12 owners in this forum do with their hoods and if they know of any sure fire way to easily get them off and on by themselves.
 
You CAN remove the hood from the front, by yourself, and you need room around to place the hood on a secure surface. But re-installing can get dicey. You need to place a soft material around the opening perimeter and slowly guide the hood in place. It's best with two people. There used to be stanchions manufactured to raise/support the hood high above the posts, but you can make your own using pipe. On the roof, or on the stanchions, is NOT a good idea on a windy day.
 
You CAN remove the hood from the front, by yourself, and you need room around to place the hood on a secure surface. But re-installing can get dicey. You need to place a soft material around the opening perimeter and slowly guide the hood in place. It's best with two people. There used to be stanchions manufactured to raise/support the hood high above the posts, but you can make your own using pipe. On the roof, or on the stanchions, is NOT a good idea on a windy day.
Thanks for the input. Do you have any idea what these hoods weigh ? Also, have you ever driven you car to cruise nights without the hood just so you don't have to bother with it ?
 
Thanks for the input. Do you have any idea what these hoods weigh ? Also, have you ever driven you car to cruise nights without the hood just so you don't have to bother with it ?
Why there is an untouched market for CF hoods. I built one for my 62 Lancer and it weighs 14 lbs.

IMG_8458.JPG
 
Back in the day, I scored an A-12 hood for my 383 SuperBee ( I suspected 5-finger discount, at the time, but did not ask. ). I never found it hard to get it off and on by myself. I grabbed the front centre of the hood with my left hand, and, using the Vulcan "V" sign with my right hand, reached through the scoop opening to lift up and over the rear hood pins first, and the front pins last. Putting it back on was as easy as guiding it onto the front pins first, and then setting it down carefully over the rear pins. It was a PITA to try and put it on the roof, so I would lean it against whatever was handy, usually just the side of my car. Of course, we were not so **** about our 1969 cars back then! It was quite a statement to check my oil level at the local Sunoco gas station hangout. I found that when I was racing at our local track, this semi-gloss black hood would really attract and hold heat in the engine compartment. After 2 or 3 runs, my Super Bee would start to vapor lock and run like crap. At this point, I would take the hood off and lean it against the pit fence, and continue to race without it. Life was good back then!
 
Thanks for the input. Do you have any idea what these hoods weigh ? Also, have you ever driven you car to cruise nights without the hood just so you don't have to bother with it ?
I would guess the A-12 hood weighs in the 20 to 25 pound area. It was not so much heavy, as clumsy. I used to drive my SuperBee around locally without the hood sometimes, but I don't think the police would allow it nowadays.
 
You CAN remove the hood from the front, by yourself, and you need room around to place the hood on a secure surface. But re-installing can get dicey. You need to place a soft material around the opening perimeter and slowly guide the hood in place. It's best with two people. There used to be stanchions manufactured to raise/support the hood high above the posts, but you can make your own using pipe. On the roof, or on the stanchions, is NOT a good idea on a windy day.
These A12's are great and I always thought it would be great to own one. The one thing that has held me back is the thought of removing the hood and re-installing the same by myself and not damaging anything. When us guys approach our mid-sixties and our backs aren't what they used to be that has to be a consideration. Then when you are at the shows what do you do with it especially on a windy day. I don't care to see them placed on the roof of the car as that IMO is just inviting another potential problem. I am curious what the A12 owners in this forum do with their hoods and if they know of any sure fire way to easily get them off and on by themselves.
I put one on my 68 X back in 71. Owned the car for 48 yrs and always took off and put back on myself. A lot of guys grab thru the scoop. I never once did that for fear of damaging the relatively thin scoop glass. I always lifted from the front corners to sides and put it up on my vinyl top. Put it back on the same way. Wide stance balancing it on my waist buckle. Even to my late 60’s never posed a problem for me once you acquire the technique- but I’ve also no back issues. But I do have shoulder issues on both sides. As far as at the shows or just showing off - iron/steel pipe a member in San Diego made for me for $50 for the set of 4. Getting them set up on the pipes does require help tho. You’ll master it and they’re well worth the look et al….

IMG_0024.jpeg
image000000.jpeg
 
Would a telescopic support make that easier to set up/take down solo?
What is that color BTW? I like.
 
I never found it too difficult to lift off my hood and put it back on by myself. I also made some 1" dia clear acrylic rods to support the hood. I made them a little taller than most, so I could use them for working on it and for at cruise night or car shows. I would slip 4 extra hood clips through the clear rods into the car pins and use the lanyard clips on the hood to put in the top of the pins that had another set of hood pins threaded into the top of the rods. Even the strongest of winds couldn't blow it away.

Picture 001.jpg


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Picture 003.jpg


Picture.jpg
 
Would a telescopic support make that easier to set up/take down solo?
What is that color BTW? I like.
I don’t think so - still a two man job.

The color is Black Agate Pearl. A deep 3 stage. Believe it or not. I was in process of buying an 2003 Lexus back in 2003. I bought Pearl white - but they were sporting this new color that looked pretty sharp. I still have the 03 but if you see this other color on an 03 today or pretty much anytime in the last 20 yrs it’s like seeing a unicorn. It never sold and they only kept it one yr. But at that moment I told myself if and when I restore my X that’s the color I’m painting it. So I got the color code and almost 20 yrs later I did exactly that. It looks immeasurably better on the X than it ever did on the Lexus and is the most complimented element of the car by other parties - that and the matching leather interior I did for every single part of the interior - pillars and all. The guy that painted it did so a piece at a time - he didn’t spray the whole car at once. No spray booth - and out in his shop yard and garage. Incredible job he did.
 
Is the interior matching or complementary?
Any closeup pics?
Yes, its unique and very easy on the eyes. Well done. :thumbsup:
 
i have one i would sell and have some after market hood pin's to through in the deal.

i ran this when racing the holes can be filled with fiber glass resin

at 130 thru the traps it wanted to come off that is why there so many holes for

Self-Ejecting Quick-Release Fasteners​



hood.jpg
 
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Is the interior matching or complementary?
Any closeup pics?
Yes, its unique and very easy on the eyes. Well done. :thumbsup:
Only these two unfortunately. I picked the premium hide out myself at Global Leather Supply in Santa Ana, CA. Already dyed. But a perfect match for the car and so close to the original color it was amazing. Funny thing is my interior was virtually perfect and didn’t need what I did - it was a want vs need. I did a bit of plagiarism from the famous 70 RR “The Bullet”. What I wanted not caring about purity….

IMG_0233.jpeg
 
Regarding hood removal and installation:

Removal is very easy for me. It's the installation part that can cause possible damage if you're not careful.

Here is what I did and it's been working for me for 7 years now. I call it the GPS guiding system :lol: I went to Home Depot and bought a 4 foot piece of plastic 1/2 inch PVC water pipe tubing. It's a cheap substitute for copper tubing. Anyway, I cut two 6" pieces for the back pins and two 4" pieces for the front pins. I used a propane torch to heat one end so that I can hand form a dome top on each one (see pics).

They slip right on the pins. When I install the hood, I lay the hood on the plastic "guiding" pins because there is no way I can be so precise to line up the hood pins to the holes. My fenders and/or cowl WILL get damaged without these make shift pieces. As it's resting on the red plastic pins, I can look to see where I am and I can gently move the hood where it needs to go. Once it drops down I simply pull all 4 plastic pins off and latch it with the factory cotter pins. See pics.

Hopefully I was clear about this. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask me.

Mike

IMG_2944[1].JPG


IMG_2945[1].JPG
 
I put one on my 68 X back in 71. Owned the car for 48 yrs and always took off and put back on myself. A lot of guys grab thru the scoop. I never once did that for fear of damaging the relatively thin scoop glass. I always lifted from the front corners to sides and put it up on my vinyl top. Put it back on the same way. Wide stance balancing it on my waist buckle. Even to my late 60’s never posed a problem for me once you acquire the technique- but I’ve also no back issues. But I do have shoulder issues on both sides.
Excellent point. NEVER lift thru the scoop. And, you've described the physical technique quite accurately: wide stance balancing it in the waist while lifting both sides. Yep, I can still do it. :thumbsup:
 
Regarding hood removal and installation:

Removal is very easy for me. It's the installation part that can cause possible damage if you're not careful.

Here is what I did and it's been working for me for 7 years now. I call it the GPS guiding system :lol: I went to Home Depot and bought a 4 foot piece of plastic 1/2 inch PVC water pipe tubing. It's a cheap substitute for copper tubing. Anyway, I cut two 6" pieces for the back pins and two 4" pieces for the front pins. I used a propane torch to heat one end so that I can hand form a dome top on each one (see pics).

They slip right on the pins. When I install the hood, I lay the hood on the plastic "guiding" pins because there is no way I can be so precise to line up the hood pins to the holes. My fenders and/or cowl WILL get damaged without these make shift pieces. As it's resting on the red plastic pins, I can look to see where I am and I can gently move the hood where it needs to go. Once it drops down I simply pull all 4 plastic pins off and latch it with the factory cotter pins. See pics.

Hopefully I was clear about this. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask me.

Mike

View attachment 1618850

View attachment 1618851
I like that ingenuity, very clever !
 
Back in the day, I scored an A-12 hood for my 383 SuperBee ( I suspected 5-finger discount, at the time, but did not ask. ). I never found it hard to get it off and on by myself. I grabbed the front centre of the hood with my left hand, and, using the Vulcan "V" sign with my right hand, reached through the scoop opening to lift up and over the rear hood pins first, and the front pins last. Putting it back on was as easy as guiding it onto the front pins first, and then setting it down carefully over the rear pins. It was a PITA to try and put it on the roof, so I would lean it against whatever was handy, usually just the side of my car. Of course, we were not so **** about our 1969 cars back then! It was quite a statement to check my oil level at the local Sunoco gas station hangout. I found that when I was racing at our local track, this semi-gloss black hood would really attract and hold heat in the engine compartment. After 2 or 3 runs, my Super Bee would start to vapor lock and run like crap. At this point, I would take the hood off and lean it against the pit fence, and continue to race without it. Life was good back then!
I like the thought of using the hood studs that are right there as a second helper to remove and reset the hood.....thanks for your input.
 
I put one on my 68 X back in 71. Owned the car for 48 yrs and always took off and put back on myself. A lot of guys grab thru the scoop. I never once did that for fear of damaging the relatively thin scoop glass. I always lifted from the front corners to sides and put it up on my vinyl top. Put it back on the same way. Wide stance balancing it on my waist buckle. Even to my late 60’s never posed a problem for me once you acquire the technique- but I’ve also no back issues. But I do have shoulder issues on both sides. As far as at the shows or just showing off - iron/steel pipe a member in San Diego made for me for $50 for the set of 4. Getting them set up on the pipes does require help tho. You’ll master it and they’re well worth the look et al….

View attachment 1618770View attachment 1618772
Thanks for the input - very cool GTX.
 
Regarding hood removal and installation:

Removal is very easy for me. It's the installation part that can cause possible damage if you're not careful.

Here is what I did and it's been working for me for 7 years now. I call it the GPS guiding system :lol: I went to Home Depot and bought a 4 foot piece of plastic 1/2 inch PVC water pipe tubing. It's a cheap substitute for copper tubing. Anyway, I cut two 6" pieces for the back pins and two 4" pieces for the front pins. I used a propane torch to heat one end so that I can hand form a dome top on each one (see pics).

They slip right on the pins. When I install the hood, I lay the hood on the plastic "guiding" pins because there is no way I can be so precise to line up the hood pins to the holes. My fenders and/or cowl WILL get damaged without these make shift pieces. As it's resting on the red plastic pins, I can look to see where I am and I can gently move the hood where it needs to go. Once it drops down I simply pull all 4 plastic pins off and latch it with the factory cotter pins. See pics.

Hopefully I was clear about this. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask me.

Mike

View attachment 1618850

View attachment 1618851
Mike, the Red PVC helpers is an excellent idea. I can see your problem solving skills at work. Thanks......
 
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