fearthisrocket
Member
Got the cluster back in the car with a new power pac and now I have the speedo and amp gauge are lit up nicely but others are dim. Any idea's???
EL issue
- Thread starter fearthisrocket
- Start date
Limited information here, so it is hard to answer the question. Not sure what car, etc.
For cars I am familiar with, if by power pac you mean the unit that provides power to some gauges, then it should have nothing to do with how the gauges are lit up - the lights get full 12v. In most cases, dim bulbs are due to a bad ground or other poor connection. My guess in this case is a poor connection on the hot side, as the cluster should have the same ground for all bulbs. Check the bulb sockets and connection to the circuit board. Make sure the copper is shiny and not corroded, as well as the bulbs and sockets...
Hope this helps...
Hawk
For cars I am familiar with, if by power pac you mean the unit that provides power to some gauges, then it should have nothing to do with how the gauges are lit up - the lights get full 12v. In most cases, dim bulbs are due to a bad ground or other poor connection. My guess in this case is a poor connection on the hot side, as the cluster should have the same ground for all bulbs. Check the bulb sockets and connection to the circuit board. Make sure the copper is shiny and not corroded, as well as the bulbs and sockets...
Hope this helps...
Hawk
shorty64
Well-Known Member
bummer! the EL system is kinda neat but prone to issues due to the complexity.
since the two big ones are ok, sounds like the power pack is working ok.
some of the 1st gen gurus may have ready advise/experience but in the interim, I'ld consider pulling the cluster back out and trace the feed from gauge to gauge checking for a tarnished or loose wire/terminal connection.
please let us know what you find for our "illumination".
since the two big ones are ok, sounds like the power pack is working ok.
some of the 1st gen gurus may have ready advise/experience but in the interim, I'ld consider pulling the cluster back out and trace the feed from gauge to gauge checking for a tarnished or loose wire/terminal connection.
please let us know what you find for our "illumination".
gibber
Well-Known Member
What kind of "new" powerpack are you using? If it is a black epoxy covered box, that is your issue. It will not put out enough AC voltage to fully light up the cluster. Bryan on here can rebuild your old OE unit, and I now have new EL powerpacks built by Real Time Engineering. Either way will work.
Mark
Mark
67_charger
Member
did all the gauges light before the powerpack change? you can easily test the function of the el with a 12v dc to 220v ac converter. these are used if you need 220v in cars in europe. for example: http://www.ebay.de/itm/1000w-DC-12V...467857623?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item20f02432d7
these converters are really cheap and produce enough power to fully light up the cluster ( i used a 1200W version)
so you can easily test every single gauge outside the car with a normal 12v car battery.
often the electric connection between the el surface and the wiring connector is broken/ loose. you can fix that with conductive silver and a layer of 2k glue. i repaired some of my gauges in this way and fixed all the connections to el surface just for safety.
these converters are really cheap and produce enough power to fully light up the cluster ( i used a 1200W version)
so you can easily test every single gauge outside the car with a normal 12v car battery.
often the electric connection between the el surface and the wiring connector is broken/ loose. you can fix that with conductive silver and a layer of 2k glue. i repaired some of my gauges in this way and fixed all the connections to el surface just for safety.
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