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Electric choke killing ignition!

Input Side of Ballast Resistor Is Fused
For what its worth the key on circuit feeds the ignition, alternator, regulator, electric choke, all the emission solenoids and who knows what else. None of these are fused by a fuse. The whole daisy chain is off the fuesable link.
 
Hope the Millers are kicking in.
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Where everyone powers them from...
The two major manufactures of aftermarket carburetors with electrically heated chokes are quite clear in their documentation that the power supply for the heating elements is NOT to be connected directly to the coil or anywhere on the coil side of the ballast resistor. The chokes are calibrated to operate with full 12volt power while the engine is warming up. As well, the added current flow across the ballast resistor can mess with some ignition systems. Ignition 1 or, as referenced, the input side of the ballast resistor, should be used for the aftermarket electric choke on these Chrysler products from this time. However, depending solely on the primary fusible link to protect all associated Ignition 1 wiring, components, and added aftermarket key-on loads is not a good idea. I’ve seen plenty of melted 18/16 ga ignition 1 engine harness wiring caused by wire shorts. There is a reason power supplies to ignition systems are typically not circuit protected with standard fuses.
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When did men start reading instructions? Must still only be a select few, as I can walk down a row of cars at a show and 9 out of 10 are wired the same as the way this one came into my shop. Jesus Bob should be along anytime now to give us the entire electron flow diagram.. lol. When I've got the choke off I'll move the connection. If what I found today helps one guy get his car home then I've done what I intended. Here out I guess I'll just go back to working on stuff and carry on quietly.
 
I have run mine off the 12V. side of the ballast resistor for years with no problems.
 
Input Side of Ballast Resistor Is Fused
Nothing of the ign system is fused.

Where everyone powers them from. Good chokes have about 12 ohms resistance, this one has 1 !

As mentioned, RUN circuit. Is what Factory did. On post 70 cars with ELEC REG, where one of the alt fields gets also RUN circuit power, there is a splice on the wire run to feed the manifold mounted choke units, on those where is a choke control unit…

Some info here:

Electric choke?
 
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THANKS! Now everyone can do it correctly. Still doesn't change why the engine died and why I posted this to help anyone else out in the same situation, being a choke coil that shorted out.
Thanks for posting this Wayne. It's yet another one of those hard to find gremlins that we can add to the list when trouble shooting. Much appreciated.
 
Good tips. Glad you found the issue and apparently didn't fry the wiring.

It was more obvious when mine shorted. Turned the ignition on to start the car and immediately saw smoke coming out from under the hood. Mine is wired to the 12v side of the ballast as others have mentioned and the wire to the choke was burned back to that point. Fortunately it stopped there. Disconnected the choke and was able to drive home without any issues.

The replacement is wired in the same way, except I added an inline fuse for extra protection.
 
Thanks for posting this. Good to know.
Now if you have an electronic distributor, where you don’t have a ballast resistor, where do you connect the choke? :poke:
 
you can run it off the wiper motor or go inside to the fuse box like a radio fuse.
 
you can run it off the wiper motor or go inside to the fuse box like a radio fuse.
Or you can conveniently connect it to the + side of the coil.

:lol:

On the 62-65’s the wiper motor is inside the firewall.

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wiper motor ? If you are thinking on get it sourced from the parking position wire but when turning on the wipers, the power will be cut.

Don't reinvent the wheel... Ballast ign switch side or Blue wire at reg are the points to source it
 
+1 for the no chokes crowd.
Oh wait, I guess I'm the only 1 :rofl:
 
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