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Electrical help please

Loulang

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Little info: 1966 Dodge Charger 383 with Holley sniper efi. I have all new wiring inside and out. Previous wiring was all jacked up. It does have a electronic distributor. Alternator is a 2 field alternator and I have ran a wire inside the ballast resistor for my constant hot for ignition sniper wire. What do I do with the other open field on the alternator? Thanks for the help in advance I am dumb when it comes to electrical, this build is for my dad and the good memories I have as a child in his orange 66. He is no longer with me anymore and I sure wish I could have his advice but this forum is the next best thing so thanks again everyone that has helped me on this build and there’s been a lot

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Is it not starting? What is exactly happening or rather not happening?
 
I think they are wondering what to do with the other field connection at the alt, looks like a square back with two fields. If that's the case I've always heard to ground it to the case of the alt.
 
At first the battery voltage slowly was dropping and I noticed that the wiring to voltage reg and ign ballast was wrong according to my wiring diagram so I switched it and then I noticed that my dumbass had the brown washer pump wire hooked to the 2nd field wire so now there is no wire going to it. I read to ground it also but I just like to double check because I do not wanna fry this harness. That’s what happened when I first bought the car. The bulkhead had 2 wires fried. So I’ve done all new wiring harness inside and out
 
I would suggest getting a newer style solid state regulator and see if you can find a plug/wires to match it. Then you'll get the best performance out of your alternator.
 
I would suggest getting a newer style solid state regulator and see if you can find a plug/wires to match it. Then you'll get the best performance out of your alternator.
I did that and that’s how I found out my wiring was wrong also because it started to smoke. Was thinking of fixing the smoked wire nothing else seems smoked.

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That's still an electromechanical relay.
Like the black one shown here:
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Almost any mid 70's -80's Chrysler had these:
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You can get the plug as well from RockAuto:
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But your alternator isn't.
It's a better setup than the original.
 
I just really didn’t wanna cut into this new harness if that’s possible. I hate typing wish I could talk to someone that really knows these electrical systems because I have some questions about this wiring to the ballast and regulator before I turn the key so I know I’m not gonna fry a $400 dollar harness or possibly the $700 dash harness.
 
I just really didn’t wanna cut into this new harness if that’s possible. I hate typing wish I could talk to someone that really knows these electrical systems because I have some questions about this wiring to the ballast and regulator before I turn the key so I know I’m not gonna fry a $400 dollar harness or possibly the $700 dash harness.
Todd Castner is very helpful, extremely busy so be patient. Check out Todd's Restorations
 
Todd Castner is very helpful, extremely busy so be patient. Check out Todd's Restorations
Ow I know Todd he is doing my headlight motors and will be doing my dash gauges. He is very helpful and so is Redbeard. They both have helped me a lot!
 
Maybe this from DC way back can help...........
Although this diagram is for the MP "Race" components the wiring works for the basic matched components.

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If you have the older pre 1970 regulator or the round back alternator, you need to ground the other field on the squaer back alternator.
If using the 1970-up electronic regulator, the ignition power (blue) goes to a field, and the green wire that goes to the voltage regulator goes to the other field.
With the Sniper, I would try using it to control the ignition timing.
Lock out the distributor advance, and drill a new dowl locating slop in the reluctor that is between the reluctor teeth. That should get you about 45-degrees rotor phasing.
You can re-measure and drill the reluctor locating slot to get the rotor phasing you need.
I think the Sniper also allows setting the lead timing, but I think it is pre-set to 50+ degrees?
Best to have a spare distributor cap with a hole by the #1 terminal so you can use a timing light to check the actual rotor phasing.
 
If you have the older pre 1970 regulator or the round back alternator, you need to ground the other field on the squaer back alternator.
If using the 1970-up electronic regulator, the ignition power (blue) goes to a field, and the green wire that goes to the voltage regulator goes to the other field.
With the Sniper, I would try using it to control the ignition timing.
Lock out the distributor advance, and drill a new dowl locating slop in the reluctor that is between the reluctor teeth. That should get you about 45-degrees rotor phasing.
You can re-measure and drill the reluctor locating slot to get the rotor phasing you need.
I think the Sniper also allows setting the lead timing, but I think it is pre-set to 50+ degrees?
Best to have a spare distributor cap with a hole by the #1 terminal so you can use a timing light to check the actual rotor phasing.
I don’t have sniper controlling my timing as of now in the future I will. I’m honestly not sure which regulator I have. This is my first MOPAR build ever and my dads passed so can’t ask him. This build is in memory of him so I REALLY APPRECIATE everyone’s help and patience with me.

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