Electrical issue

[steve from staten island]

Over charge will not burn wiring, only the battery cannot stand much more then 15V.
The voltage regulator only controls voltage, thats it.
I am quite sure the slight ground you are measuring is because of the coil itself.
A ground against the positive side of the coil will create fireworks.

You said measuring at the battery you confirmed it is not charging, so what about at the alternator itself?
Is that showing 14+ volts? If it does there is a massive resistance, probably in the bulkhead connection area as there are signs of overheating.
This in effect causes a voltage drop and could be the reason why there is low voltage at the battery.

The wire that powers the positive side of the coil is disconnected from the coil itself. There is a slight ground in that wire. Ignition off and battery disconnected there should be no ground even slightly at that wire. Something is shorted and its either the voltage reg or the ignition switch.
I disagree about a overcharge causing high amperage and melting the fusible wire. My complaint is the wire should have melted but not melted the bulkhead connection...As I said even the output wire from the alternator at the bulk head connections show overheating.
That male and female spade connections at the firewall can not take high draw....
I still want to know if the terminal on the voltage reg, the terminal opposite the field connection. Should there be a ground from that to the body of the regulator itself.... I say NO.... Im looking now for a spare reg to test it and see for myself. Will let you know what I find and thanks for the help

 

[Wietse]

Something is shorted and its either the voltage reg or the ignition switch.

Ok, then should be close there.

I disagree about a overcharge causing high amperage and melting the fusible wire. My complaint is the wire should have melted but not melted the bulkhead connection...As I said even the output wire from the alternator at the bulk head connections show overheating.
That male and female spade connections at the firewall can not take high draw....

An overcharge situation is caused by a high voltage, once the voltage regulator balances out (meaning the alternator does not have to provide power any longer) it will screw back the alternator output.
This is purely done on voltage only...no amperage.
As you mentioned, the firewall can not take the high draw, that is correct, that is why wires are melting.
You need to find what is pulling so many amps that causes it.
I was trying to explain that, when a connection is bad (corrosion, loose) it will cause a lot of heat.
Also the voltage will drop over that connection, which could cause your voltage regulator is thinking it still needs to charge the system while it does not have to.

 

[steve from staten island]

Ok, then should be close there.



An overcharge situation is caused by a high voltage, once the voltage regulator balances out (meaning the alternator does not have to provide power any longer) it will screw back the alternator output.
This is purely done on voltage only...no amperage.
As you mentioned, the firewall can not take the high draw, that is correct, that is why wires are melting.
You need to find what is pulling so many amps that causes it.
I was trying to explain that, when a connection is bad (corrosion, loose) it will cause a lot of heat.
Also the voltage will drop over that connection, which could cause your voltage regulator is thinking it still needs to charge the system while it does not have to.

I just had alternator tested and they said it was ok....Its listed as a 60 amp. The only think I can do now is eliminate the connections at firewall and hard wire it. I also will bypass the amp meter for now.
Then I will see if it is now charging and keep a close eye on it.
Im getting out of options and patience but thanks for the help, I needed it

 

[Wietse]

What car in specific we are talking about? model/year?

I would start with a by-pass on the firewall connection, test again.
Then you can also verify on the gauge, and that it is working also.
If there are still issues you can by-pass the amp gauge to eliminate that.
Otherwise you take 2 potentials out of the loop, after you still don't know what caused it.

 

[steve from staten island]

What car in specific we are talking about? model/year?

I would start with a by-pass on the firewall connection, test again.
Then you can also verify on the gauge, and that it is working also.
If there are still issues you can by-pass the amp gauge to eliminate that.
Otherwise you take 2 potentials out of the loop, after you still don't know what caused it.

Im doing just that, new wires soldered to replace the spade connections at bulkhead and im bypassing amp gage.
Then I will start up car and check the charging system.
The only thing I can think of is I was driving and running the blower motor. The spade connections were not that good and resulting in to a higher electrical draw than the fusible link could handle.
At this point I dont have a clue what else I can do

 

[Rusty 72]

I just replaced my entire electrical system in my 72 due to the AMP gauge frying everything. The wires run so close together in the bundle thru the firewall the excess heat will destroy them all. I redid the system using the Mad Electrical idea and its been running perfect.
The fusible links are just a higher gauge wire than the wire they're protecting and the theory is they will burn first thus saving the circuit. Your AMP gauge is working like a fusible link, bypass it.
And yes get the correct gauge wire for the maximum Alt output even if your not using it at its maximum capacity. Better safe than sorry.