What is your altitude? Here in Denver (Mile High) the altitude reduces engine vacuum quite a bit.
The EFI with Ignition control should help, but you still need to tinker with the computer settings.
You Distributor is fine. Lock it out and use the Rotor that can be phased. Disable the Distributor Rev limiter (use the EFI rev limiter). Connect the Orange negative coil wire to to the Sniper Yellow Coil Input.
The Points Out White Wire is used to trigger the Coil Driver Module that should have came with the sniper, and that output connects to the ignition Coil negative.
If you want to use a CD Ignition box, then the white wire is used to trigger that box, and the Coil driver Module is not used at all.
I would get a new distributor cap also, and modify the old one so that you can see the rotor to make sure it is phased to the cap correctly.
I always double verify that the ignition timing is what the computer thinks it is. You can lock the ignition advance (Static timing) in the computer settings (or just set all the ignition map settings the same, around 30 degrees) and using a timing light, make sure the ignition timing is actually 30 degrees. Then while watching the timing, run the engine RPM up to around 4,000+ RPM, and make sure the timing stays at 30 degrees, if it advances or retards, there is an adjustment in the computer software to compensate for that. Also check that the rotor mistly aligned with the caps spark plug terminal. If the phasing is off, the adjustable rotor might need to be moved, and if you run out of adjustment, the reference angle in the software can be adjusted.
Once you have verified that the ignition timing matches that the computer says, you can make all the tuning changes in the computer.
The 15-degrees initial / base timing seems to work good for starting the engine. Once the engine fires, you can program the timing to jump to 20+ degrees at high vacuum/map settings which should help idle quality and vacuum. The Idle AFR might need to be slightly rich, and might have to makes some changes to the Idle Air Control if running a real large cam.
Lol, my altitude is about -2 meter below sea level. Dutch low lands
So you are saying I could use the RTR distributor to work directly with the Sniper if wired up as you stated? (and without any ignition box)
I was looking into the wiring setup of the MSD 6EFI box, normally the magnetic distributors have the green & violet wiring for the triggering, mine does not.
And as I read that it is either the green/violet wiring is used for magnetic pick up
or the white wire as Points / electronic ignition amplifier triggering.
My distributor has the 3-pin connector (red/black/orange) and a single grey wire for the tach which is in use also. (with tach adapter)
Red goes to the positive pole on the coil and the black wire is ground, that orange one goes on the Yellow coil input of the sniper EFI connector.
Points Out (white) from Sniper goes to the negative pole on the coil.
The Points Out White Wire is used to trigger the Coil Driver Module that should have came with the sniper
This coil driver module you mentioned, that is integrated in the Sniper ECU right?
EDIT:
I see what you mean now with the coil driver, i must have it if it comes with the Sniper kit, still somewhere in the box as i kept everything i did not use when i installed it.
So, in this case the RTR distributor electronics are still in use or not?
I have never really looked in-depth on the working of all this so this is all quite new for me.
But if I understand correct with the above setup, the Sniper EFI controls the timing now by telling the RTR distributor when to fire? (Sniper determines the timing advance/retard)
As how I understand, the distributor rotor/pin connections have an x-amount of degrees where they are able to pass a spark, correct?
After using the phasing rotor, there is a certain amount of degrees in both directions that are used for changing the timing.
Having it adjusted as per manual at 15* just puts it in the middle of the range I guess.
I did read up on setting the EFI on the static timing and check if correct or not, if not correct this must be corrected by rotating the distributor, right?
At higher rpm it indeed states you need to increase/decrease the inductive delay, depending on if the timing advances or retards if you get in higher rpm's.
Yes the AFR at idle is set rich, I believe it was 13.2 - 13.5 or so where it runs best, the IAC speed I set for fast so it reacts quickly as soon as the rpm raise or drop, leaving it at medium or slow it tends to hang a little and causes a very variable idle rpm. (this is only with a warm engine at idle)
