Factory tach green wire routing and engine ground on 66 Satellite
- Thread starter AR67GTX
- Start date
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
It certainly seems it only connects 2 wires together. 66 was an cobble the engine wiring and we'll fix it next year.
That’s great Bill - thanks. I spent an hour googling terminal block yesterday - never thought to try junction block. And Mega Parts of all places. They have a lot of obscure stuff but it’s sometimes hard to find on their website.
It looks like there are some other wires entering with the tach wire. Do you have some auxiliary gages under the dash? The only other wire I find entering the cabin that doesn’t go through the bulkhead is the AC wire which a Hemi won’t have.
Don’t try to track it down - it’s just a curiosity. I’ve gone through pretty much every foot of wiring on this car now except behind the grill and know more about it than I ever wanted to. This relay panel was the last piece of the puzzle and you have clarified that for me.
Great help - thanks again.
It looks like there are some other wires entering with the tach wire. Do you have some auxiliary gages under the dash? The only other wire I find entering the cabin that doesn’t go through the bulkhead is the AC wire which a Hemi won’t have.
Don’t try to track it down - it’s just a curiosity. I’ve gone through pretty much every foot of wiring on this car now except behind the grill and know more about it than I ever wanted to. This relay panel was the last piece of the puzzle and you have clarified that for me.
Great help - thanks again.
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
Its wire for the tach and my aftermkt temp gauge wire
Should just be the green tach wire from OEM
ps, what the purpose is the terminal / junction block is??
I have no idea really but its 1966 Street hemi cars only
Should just be the green tach wire from OEM
ps, what the purpose is the terminal / junction block is??
I have no idea really but its 1966 Street hemi cars only
I think when this car was stripped and painted they removed everything on the panel and then couldn't remember how to put it back correctly - I think they reversed the starter relay and the horn relay and when it came to the junction block they couldn't figure out it's purpose either and just left it off.
If you have power brakes and switch to dual master. Get a master where lines come out passengers side. May have to unbolt master for valve adjustment.
Fran - no PB or PS and after helping my friend work on his 69 Hemi Roadrunner with PB, I won’t miss them on this car. I decided to replace the light harness because the line to bay Z at the bulkhead has been real hot in the past and melted the area of the plug some. I had a new plug but I also would have had to cut the fuse link off of it and splice in some more wire and a heavy ring connector - too much monkey business for my piece of mind.
It’s interesting that my 67 GTX has all its original wiring and everything on it still works perfectly.
It’s interesting that my 67 GTX has all its original wiring and everything on it still works perfectly.
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
My car still has all its underdash and rear body lighting.
But Everything firewall forward is new .
As to the oem relay location on the relay bracket......i think mine is right. Based on pictures i have of surviver cars ive seen.
But Everything firewall forward is new .
As to the oem relay location on the relay bracket......i think mine is right. Based on pictures i have of surviver cars ive seen.
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
Ps.
I plan to convert mine to disc brakes.....someday.
But whether or not i do power disc brakes is yet to be determined.
I know a couple guys with cars running manual disc brakes with no complaints on there part .
I plan to convert mine to disc brakes.....someday.
But whether or not i do power disc brakes is yet to be determined.
I know a couple guys with cars running manual disc brakes with no complaints on there part .
Bill - I think your junction terminal is installed right. It matches BEL64's photo in post 10 I found on the internet and seems to agree with some other photos I found although they were pretty grainy when enlarged. I think the key thing on PB is to have the flexible rubber boot on the #7 plug or it can be really tough to change plugs. But pulling the valve cover to adjust valves is really a problem - pretty much have to unbolt the booster and master cylinder and lay them over against the fender.
With PBs remove spring brackets throttle cable bracket. Lift forward and toward carbs with 1, 3 and 5 plug tubes removed. Forget whether had to remove rear carb but don't think so.
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