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Fan clutch to radiator spacing on 64 Dodge

Montclaire

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Hello, I just mocked up my block, water pump and clutch fan and it's way too tight. I have under an 1/8th of an inch clearance between the clutch face and the radiator. The water pump is the stock depth and the clutch is the stubby jag unit. The radiator is a three core unit from a small block AC car, would the big block unit be just a two row? As it is, it'll never work. thanks


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The radiator needs to be shifted forward to the core support by heating and reseating the saddles. I can post a pic tomorrow. Either you or a rad shop can do it.
 
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You mean break the solder free and reposition on the brackets? Ah, I didn't think of that...

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What do I need as a minimum clearance, 1/2 inch?
 
I'm interested in how to heat the saddles to be able to move the radiator portion. Please post pics.
 
Thanks for posting this Mont. I never even thought to double check the clearance! Looks like I'll have about 3/8" top to bottom. The engine sets a a slight "rake" rearward ( don't know the degree) which means the fan will tip back at the top about a 1/2" which should match the angle of the radiator as it is mounted in the saddles tilting inward at the top by about 3/8". gonna set the engine next weekend, of course the radiator will come out for that and after everything is bolted in, we'll dry fit the radiator and see what we've got. Like you said I would like to know that kind of clearance we should be looking for; fan to core.
 
With a three 3 core you are going to have trouble using a clutch,the early K frame sits the motor 1 1/2 " forward.I went that route,radiator is Max Wedge with four core,1" spacer and 7 blade fixed fan,never runs above 190*.
 
With a three 3 core you are going to have trouble using a clutch,the early K frame sits the motor 1 1/2 " forward.I went that route,radiator is Max Wedge with four core,1" spacer and 7 blade fixed fan,never runs above 190*.

I’m using a 3 core and jag fan clutch in my car with the early K member. Just need to reposition the saddles so the top tank is tight/close to the support.

Personally I like to see about an index finger fan-to-core clearance and the vertical CL of the fan blade should be even with the opening in the shroud. I used poly-loc engine mounts and, since it’s a 4-spd, a torque strap to keep things stationary.

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I'm interested in how to heat the saddles to be able to move the radiator portion. Please post pics.

Just like you would solder copper pipe — MEPP gas, flux and solder from Home Depot. If you do this alone, c-clamps and wood framing shims come in handy, too.

I was kinda in a rush so I had the rad shop do mine when they built the radiator. I helped another guy with his and we did a better job of fitting it.
 
The one that I have is questionable. I also need to swap tanks from a big block unit.
 
I'm using the jag clutch as well and had the saddles moved on the radiator. Cheap, easy fix and works well.
 
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