Fast Easy Method For Drilling Spot Welds

[1 Wild R/T]

Just saw this & thought it was pretty slick...

 

[kiwigtx]

Creepy voice at the end...."Please touch my like thingy"

 

[493 Mike]

Isn't this method making for a much more difficult welding repair? Wouldn't every weld need a copper back-up?
Mike

 

[Kern Dog]

I suspect that this is for panel removal to use that panel elsewhere, not to remove and replace.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I think that is mostly for removing a salvage panel with bits of the junk car still attached. Chris Birdsong (Junkerup) showed this in one of his videos. If the top or outside is the panel your keeping and the new panel is slid in behind (without the holes) it will work.

 

[moparmarks]

Drilling all the way through is fine for the top piece but not so much for the bottom piece. Take drilling out a floor pan. Now you have a bunch of holes in the frame rails. What do you do with those? Fast and easy isn't always the best way.

 

[R413]

Thanks for posting, could be useful in the right situation.

How much time was spent finding the spots and doing whatever left the bare metal mark? And how about on The wheelwell lip where there is no paint. And the surface rust has made the spot hard to locate?

 

[snakeoil24]

makes no sense to drill out this way.

 

[kiwigtx]

There are actual correct spot-weld drill bits available that make a countersunk hole on the first panel, and a much smaller centre-drill type hole on the back - typically 1/8"
Just enough to get release between the panels.

 

[snakeoil24]

Better yet a flat bottom bit that cuts thru only one layer

 

[Kern Dog]

There are actual correct spot-weld drill bits available that make a countersunk hole on the first panel, and a much smaller centre-drill type hole on the back - typically 1/8"
Just enough to get release between the panels.

I used those when I replaced the front stub on Jigsaw.

 

[kiwigtx]

Using a step-cutter should be reserved for speedy removal on a junker only....not for actual restoration work.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Since everyone is using AMD metal these days it might not be as relevant, but back when I was grabbing clean used panels off parts cars & wrecking yard cars I drilled lots of spot welds... If no one saves old metal anymore fine, it's not a useful technique... Forget I brought it up...

 

[Kern Dog]

Come on, Randy...don't be deterred by a few complainers.
YOU have saved me a LOT of money over the years with your advice, links to sites with parts, guidance and friendship. I take in ALL that you offer with much gratitude. Many things that I do I ponder if you have an easier way and sometimes hope that you join in to assist.
I hate to bother those that have already helped me so much.

 

[moparmarks]

I think it has it uses.

 

[493 Mike]

Since everyone is using AMD metal these days it might not be as relevant, but back when I was grabbing clean used panels off parts cars & wrecking yard cars I drilled lots of spot welds... If no one saves old metal anymore fine, it's not a useful technique... Forget I brought it up...

It does look like a good solution in the right situation. It is certainly fast!
Mike

 

[1 Wild R/T]

It does look like a good solution in the right situation. It is certainly fast!
Mike

And I see that as the point... Back in the 90's I spent countless hours drilling spot welds to remove panels from Pick-n-Pull yards... They didn't allow gas powered tools or generators or torches... So battery powered drills & later battery powered sawzalls were the best tools... Though I did remove a few panels with an axe & a hammer... Looks like a scary technique.. But very fast & effective...

 

[NoCar2023]

This is what the flat rate guys used in the last body shop I worked in. Way faster than those little hole-saw bits. That stepped drill method is pretty cool too. Thanks for posting.

Hey, please touch my like thingy.....AND SUBSCRIBE DAMMIT! I watch a lot of that dude's videos...

 

[moparmarks]

It actually looks like a Uni-bit or Cobra bit which I have bunch of. They do drill fast.
I used the Blair Rotabroach in 5/16" and 3/8"
Also the seam buster blades for where a drill won't work and also cutoff wheels..

 

[Arlo Price]

RotoBroach on the keeper and whatever is fastest on the donor.