1. __Larsson____

    __Larsson____ Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys! So i have now bought Holley Sniper and EFI tank for my 70 Charger and now doing som research to do the fuellines in the most good looking way but still affordable.

    So the plan is to have braided fuel line from the EFI body down to aluminium pipes that goes under the car as the originals then braided fuel line from the pipe to the tank. What do you think of my idea? Do you got any other good idea? Pics would be nice!

    20200906_164622.jpg
     
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    • F4R/T

      F4R/T Well-Known Member

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      Carter carb and you’ll be happier.. but hey I’m old school, lol. I would keep soft hoses to minimum like the factory and steel line front to back.. I’d follow the factory lay out or the safest route possible, jacket it if required for heat and road debris protection. If needed up size, buy quality USA made line , it’s moving fuel! Good Luck just think of safety and make it the best you can. Your on the right track with your thoughts IMO.
       
    • diesel_lv

      diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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      2 ways to run the fuel, IMHO, dual 3/8 factory line, side by side for feed and return. Then there is a very short amount of braided line needed. 2nd, the way I've run mine, mount stand alone fuel pressure regulator under body right in front of tank, mount 10 micron NAPA/WIX fuel injection filter in same location. Fuel out of tank to regulator, regulated to 58psi, then to 10 micron filter then to factory 3/8 line to Sniper. On bypass side of external regulator, return immediately to tank return. Cap off/plug fuel return on Sniper itself. Then no additional lines are required. I run like this on '67 Coronet w stroker 496 w 610 crank hp. No issues.
       
    • 451Mopar

      451Mopar Well-Known Member

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      I just bought factory replacement fuel lines in stainless steel from fine lines to replace the braided lines I currently have running from tank to fuel rails.
      Because I have the Spectra Performance EFI tank that has the lines (3/8" supply, 5/16" return) out the sending unit like stock (not AN connections), the fuel tank to hard line(s) will just be short length of EFI fuel line with EFI fuel line clamps (no AN connectors.) The pump wiring will be run up through the sending same grommet as the sender unit wire, and follow the sender wire harness along the drivers side back to the dash.
      The reproduction hard lines will run forward like the stock line(s).
      I haven't decided how to convert the engine compartment ends of the hard lines to the braided AN hose?
      My plan is to use -6 AN to Tube adaptor fittings. I think the type that uses ferrules might be easier than flaring the stainless for the tube adaptors that seal to the single tube flare?
      To support the hard lines, my plan is to use bulkhead adaptors mounted to a bracket. Then the AN braided lines from the bracket / bulkhead connectors to the fuel filter (and Flex-Fuel sensor) and fuel rails. This is for the Convertible, not a race car, so the lines are inside the front frame area.
      I like the routing even if it was a race car, I would just split some large heavy tube to mount over the fuel lines along the frame rail area near the transmission/firewall area.

      It should look alot cleaner than the original setup with the sumped fuel tank, external pump, pre and post filters under the car with the fuel pump wiring running under the car, and braided hose running along both sides of the car.
       
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      • 70chall440

        70chall440 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Do not use aluminum lines, most of the EFI manufacturers recommend against it.

        "Economical" is a relative term because regardless of how you do it, there is either a front cost or rear cost. Here are some options
        • EFI rated rubber line back to front: going to be your cheapest route but is not the best way to go due to potential road damage and wear over time. Also you MUST have beads on every hard line you connect to and use EFI rated clamps. The advantage is that they are easy to run and work with in addition to repair should you need to.
        • Stainless steel line back to front: can be pretty costly unless you buy the Amazon cheap stuff but then you don't know what you are getting. You will need a pile of fittings to go with this line in order to connect it all.
        • Nylon braided EFI line back to front" easier to work with over stainless steel, generally uses a "push lock" style fitting and you can hose clamp it to some degree.
        • DIY steel line back to front with soft line (of your choice) to connect the tank, fuel filter, regulator and fuel rails: this is relatively economical but does require good benders and a beading machine or device (Earls has some single cheapish ones that do work). You will still need soft lines but they will be minimal. If done right will look pretty "stock".
        • Pre-bent steel lines: same as the DIY route except that the lines are most bent for your car already and they will look very tidy. I don't think anyone makes them for an EFI application specifically but you can alter them if need be to suit the build.
        Some people like Stainless Steel lines both for their looks and for their durability. I find them a bit hard to work with and to me the price is not worth the result.

        Many people use Nicopp metal lines because they are very easy to bend and work with (can bend by hand). The only real downside is that if they take a hard hit from say road debris it is possible that they could be crushed. You will still need to put a bead in the ends for the soft lines.

        Personally I buy 3/8 steel line and bend my own and then use Fragola series 8000 push lock fittings as well as hard line adapters (where needed). However I have a lift and trying to bend lines and fit them on the ground (on jack stands) would be a challenge, not impossible just a challenge.
         
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        • 451Mopar

          451Mopar Well-Known Member

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          Not cheap, but the stainless 3/8" fuel line is $68 each.
          https://www.sstubes.com/products/rgl6802ss-68-69-mopar-b-body-3-8-intermediate-fuel-line-stainless

          Nickel Copper line is good and easy to work with. 25' costs $54. That should be good for both supply and return.
          https://www.amazon.com/Roll-Copper-Nickel-Fuel-Transmission/dp/B015YGREXU

          As mentioned, don't use aluminum for many reasons like very soft, won't like alcohol in fuel, work hardens and cracks.

          The most expensive way to do the fuel system is to re-do it several times like me.
           
        • __Larsson____

          __Larsson____ Well-Known Member

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          Thanks for the tips guys! So i will not go for the aluminium then XD My first thought was to use original style steel pipe, but it seems to be harder to find here in just a few days, i was planning on fix this next weekend but that might be hard.
           
        • andyf

          andyf Well-Known Member

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          Why not use your existing fuel line? A 5/16 steel line will work just fine since you'll have 60 psi of pressure. Depending on where you put the regulator you might not need a return line. Holley sells a muscle car EFI fuel pump and regulator combo that fits in the gas tank. With that setup you don't need a return line since the regulator is in the tank. You just have a single high pressure line up to the throttle body and the factory 5/16 steel line works just fine for that.
          https://www.holley.com/products/fue...uel_pumps/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-314
           
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          • CH6R8GR

            CH6R8GR Member

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            I went with stainless 3/8 feed & return lines installed in the factory location with some added clips to hold it all in place. I have an efi ready fuel tank with both feed and return ports with NPT threads. A few NPT to an adapters at the pump. An hose ends/braided line from there to the factory style stainless. Attached used the ferrule style hardline adapter which doesn’t require flaring. Just use of a hardline cutting tool to remove excess length or stock flare. A few pictures of my progress so far

            1A094CC4-B127-4B41-8651-52F7EC234D3B.jpeg A6B09A63-CAA9-40F2-A2FF-8E40D28C3F0D.jpeg 8729DC3B-FFB1-4A04-B262-1F4E3A5AA1EA.jpeg 8F39CCD0-06E2-4D32-B43F-2CB3704211FF.jpeg
             
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            • threewood

              threewood FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              3/8" steel feed line, 3/8" Al return line. -6an fittings on both ends, ptfe braided hose.
               
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              • ChargerST

                ChargerST Well-Known Member

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                a good read before you make a decision: https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-t...erks-responses-to-your-fuel-system-questions/
                 
              • hunt2elk

                hunt2elk FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                I'm personally not into efi on these old rides, but I sure do like your car :thumbsup:.
                 
              • __Larsson____

                __Larsson____ Well-Known Member

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                Where have you mounted the role over valve you 68-70 B-bodie owners?
                 
              • 69 GeeTeeX

                69 GeeTeeX Well-Known Member

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                I’ve made a simple bracket to mount the vent valve on rear shock brace using existing holes under the trunk floor brace. Done a few Holley Sniper systems this way.
                 
              • Wietse

                Wietse Well-Known Member

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                That is what i had done.
                Just make sure you are using braided hoses that is flexible on the engine side to avoid any tension on the hose if the engine tilts/moves.
                I used proper heat wrap as well where the fuel line gets anywhere near the exhaust, might be something to add to your shopping chart.
                 
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