Finally got my '73 RR home, a few leak questions

[manic_mopar]

Hey everyone, I finally got my road runner out here to houston from miami, and i'm ready to start tackling some (hopefully) easy issues.

The oil pan has been leaking ever since we had the 440 rebuilt and stroked. It is not a significant leak, and it doesn't do it when the engine is off. It's not at the back of the pan, it seems to be somewhere towards the front of the car. Is the oil pan relatively easy to remove with the engine in the car? From what i could roughly find online, it seems i'll need to rotate the crank to get the front weights up, and drop some steering linkage and finagle the thing down? It has a windage tray.

Next, the master cylinder is leaking from the cap. We are using a refurb unit from Autozone or Advance auto about 8 months ago, but the car sat and did nothing since then. It worked great as far as i know, but it is now leaking from the cap between the cap seal and the bowl. It only seemed to be doing it from the front smaller reservoir. I bought another refurb unit and swapped the cap/seal and the swingarm that snaps it down, and it slowed the leak to a barely dribble, but i want it all gone. It only does it when the pedal is pressed of course. I may just get the new one i bought put in there and hope for the best.


Any input on these will be much appreciated. I'll have a ton more questions as i get further into this car! thanks

 

[Sonny Sikes]

For a later model 2 bolt master have one of these made

 

[Basket case]

pin hole in the pan?
and check the surface of the master where the lid gasket rests, I read where a lot of people have trouble with remans leaking.

 

[manic_mopar]

Thats an interesting adapter plate. Ill have to take a look at that.

Ill check to see if the surface of the bowl is true or not. I was wondering about that myself. Maybe there is a low spot. Thanks yall

 

[YY1]

Those adapters come up occasionally on ebay.

Price can vary quite a bit. $15 to over $50.

Some Mopar resto sites sell them as well.

Might have to adjust push rod length.

 

[YY1]

...you can also make one out of a bad M/C, the metal to make one probably costs more than the core you'll get, and it already has most of the holes drilled in exactly the correct spots.

 

[manic_mopar]

Ok thanks guys. Theres a great metal fab shop here that could make that adapter for me easily. Im going to try this other reman i have this weekend and see if it leaks. If so, ill look into this adapter yall are talking about. Is there a particular master cyl people use?

For those with non-leaky oil pans, do you use two actual gaskets for the windage tray and pan, or do you go the sealant route and put your own bead of stuff down? A combination of the two?

Thanks!

 

[Basket case]

mine has two gaskets. I used to work with a diesel mechanic, and when he overhauled an engine, he used weatherstripping glue on the pan. he said it was a bitch to get off, but he never had one leak.

 

[oldbee]

On the oil pan-did you try giving every bolt another 1/4 turn or so. Cheap thing to try first. I've always used the "hi-tack" stuff from Napa.

 

[Mogre]

You need 2 gaskets with a windage tray. A sealant always helps.

 

[Dennis H]

Agree. Do a few heat cycle then gently snug. Same with the drain plug.

On the oil pan-did you try giving every bolt another 1/4 turn or so. Cheap thing to try first. I've always used the "hi-tack" stuff from Napa.

 

[manic_mopar]

Thanks for all the info guys. Im going to figure out how to get the pan out next week and get some new gaskets and sealant and give it another go. I did try pulling up a little on the nuts but she still leaks. Oh well!

 

[runner74]

Dude

That's a sweet looking Runner. Congrats. I have a 74 just dropped the pan. Plan on a lot of time but it sounds worse than it really is. There are posts on here and don't forget to check out for "A" bodies if you don't find it here, as they are very similar. You will need a tie rod puller, pull the two on the Passenger side, one on drivers, swing the center link toward the front. Jack engine near tranny. I put a short peice of two-by under the front passenger side between the k-member and small flat surface on the block for safety. then the pan comes right out by rotating slightly counter clockwise. Recommend the Summit windage tray with pre-molded gaskets when re-installing. Good luck.

 

[manic_mopar]

Hey runner74, thanks for the info and the compliments! I thought i replied to this a while ago but apparently not! I got the pan off just now, still have to get the windage tray off the block. I think it got bent during the separation process so ill go ahead and order a new one.

I bought some felpro rubbercoated steel core gaskets to replace. Should i still put some sealant on these gaskets or should they be good on their own?

That summit tray you said with the pre-done gaskets, hows it holding up? Did you put sealant on that too?

Thanks yall. Getting 1 step closer to fewer leaks (i hope)

 

[runner74]

I put just a slight amount of RED RTV (used a clean rigid piece of slim cardboard to apply ) on the pan only to fill in the slight imperfections on the original pan and let it dry. And of course a little on the front corners where the pan meets the timing cover and no leaks.

 

[rgp266]

Ummmmm.....Did you check for an over full reservoir?

Bob

 

[manic_mopar]

Ummmmm.....Did you check for an over full reservoir?

Bob

No i didnt. I dont think (nor am i sure) that was the issue. It was leaking shortly after we got the motor rebuilt and it has progressively gotten worse over the years. I am going to do a test with the oil oan down to see exactly how much oil sits in the pan before it reaches the seams.