First Time Changing Rear Main Seal

[boboh1]

Well this weekend is my first time changing a rear main seal ever. Engine still in the car. Seen some videos but they cover Ford and Chevy. I know to install the side with the lip towards the front of the engine and to have each half a bit off center. I just am not sure about the side seal installation. Any other tips I should be aware of during this process? Thanks.

 

[davek]

side seal? engine?

 

[boboh1]

The two strips that seal each side of the end cap. Some say toss those and put silicon sealant in there instead or use them with a bit of sealer

 

[Go mango]

Well this weekend is my first time changing a rear main seal ever. Engine still in the car. Seen some videos but they cover Ford and Chevy. I know to install the side with the lip towards the front of the engine and to have each half a bit off center. I just am not sure about the side seal installation. Any other tips I should be aware of during this process? Thanks.

Boboh, check out Nick's Garage on You Tube. He did a nice show a couple months ago of his process of the RMS. And he builds great engines.

 

[boboh1]

Thanks. I’ll check him out.

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

side seal? engine?

Big block it appears. 2 fiber seals

 

[radical rob]

Biggest pain is getting the oil pan off. Z sometimes need to take the center link of steering out as well as raise the engine slightly to get to the front oil pan bolts

 

[rickseeman]

Some rear seals now-a-days don't even give you side seals. They just expect you to silicone it back together. It won't be an easy job under there. Be sure to get everything clean so the sealant will stick.

 

[boboh1]

Is it recommended to use the side seals or just gob the silicone sealer in there instead?

 

[hunt2elk]

And you may have to turn the crank to get the pan off.

 

[RemCharger]

Is it recommended to use the side seals or just gob the silicone sealer in there instead?

Just silicone.

 

[rickseeman]

If you haven't already read this for support...
The Official Rear Main Seal replacement thread

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

And you may have to turn the crank to get the pan off.

I’ve never had to do that in my 68-70 b bodys but to each there own

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Just silicone.

For me a little diesel fuel ( makes the fiber seal slide one in at a time and boom done but that’s me per instructions I’ve read

 

[RemCharger]

For me a little diesel fuel ( makes the fiber seal slide one in at a time and boom done but that’s me per instructions I’ve read

Technology has come a long way. But again, to each their own.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Boboh, check out Nick's Garage on You Tube. He did a nice show a couple months ago of his process of the RMS. And he builds great engines.

And that seal he replaced still leaked lol but I do like his show on you tube.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Me personally I’d order a fast fish retainer and use a 2 piece seal. I don’t like the fast fish seal for in engine seal replacement, it’s too pliable. The fast fish doesn’t use side seals. I’d also use permatex The right stuff black. If you put it back together correctly and this doesn’t fix your leak then it’s rope seal time.

 

[dvw]

Several things to look for. First make sure the two pan bolt holes haven't broken thru by someone who installed bolts that are to long. If so seal them with Teflon thread sealer. You may have to loosen the rear 4 main caps to allow the crank to drop a little in order to press the upper half of the seal out. I use a dull small screwdriver to push the upper seal out of the groove. Round the tip with sandpaper so there are no sharp edges on the blade. Install the upper half of the seal before retorquing the main caps. If so seal them with Teflon thread sealer. RTV in the side seals work great. However every area of the block has to be free of oil. This is tough when doing it in the car. Wipe a thin layer of RTV on the block sides themselves. If the RTV sticks, it's clean. If it rolls off and stays on you finger it is not. Fill the side cavities in the retainer before installing it. Fill the retainer bolt holes with RTV. Sometimes the gasket and pan will not completly cover the retainer holes causing a leak. Make sure the bolt hole areas of the pan are not dimpled inward towards the block side of the pan. They can be dimpled outward slightly with the ball end of a hammer on a wood block. Glue the gasket to the block with weatherstip adhesive. Let it dry then you wont have to fumble holding it. A 1/8" bead of RTV on the pan will suffice to iron out and imperfections. DO NOT over tighten the pan bolys. a 1/4" drive rathet will supply more that enough torque. Continue to go around and resnug the bolts. They will get loose as teh gasket compresses. You may have to do them 3-4 times. It may only take a 1/4 turn or so each time. Once they stay snug you're done.
Doug

 

[Geoff 2]

Use silicon instead of side seals.

 

[boboh1]

Thanks for the suggestions. My kit came with a type of rubber side seals but it looks like sealer instead. Got the pan off but that is as far I got so far.