Fitech 6

[Eric Pearson]

Would any of you smarter than me People that has tuned a Fitech 6 pack be willing to share their experience with me, mine is running very rich and when I accelerate it knocks and the works ok, I’ve played with the timing and no real difference. Any help is greatly appreciated here’s some pics of the settings that came from the factory

 

[Rebelrouser]

I have experience with a fitech single 4 barrel boosted application. First does the fitech control the timing? Mine does. Second main thing I would look at is on the parameters you will see desired air fuel ratio and you will see actual air fuel ratio, they should be close. Then you need to look at the self learn, how much the computer is adding or subtracting fuel. For example if the computer is trying to subtract a lot of fuel using the self-learning then you need to go in and set the base injectors leaner, several ways to do that.

 

[Eric Pearson]

Thank you for the advice

 

[matthon]

Have you set the initial parameters, such as engine displacement, hp, timing control yes/no?

Set the IAC?

Verify the O2 sensor is good, I keep a spare.
Even a new one can be bad and lead to chasing your tail.

Check for error codes.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Have you set the initial parameters, such as engine displacement, hp, timing control yes/no?

Set the IAC?

Verify the O2 sensor is good, I keep a spare.
Even a new one can be bad and lead to chasing your tail.

Check for error codes.

I had 2 02 sensors go bad in 2 of the first gen Snipers.. And when they do it dumps fuel to the engine thinking its running lean.

 

[451Mopar]

Is it rich just when starting and warming up? That is the displays shown.
I have a 4-bbl FiTech, not 6 pack.
Makes sure you don't have and exhaust leaks, the O2 is good, using unleaded fuel and running with mufflers or long exhaust tubes so the O2 dosen't see extra air in the exhaust.
What cam selection did you make when setting up the base tune? I think the more radical cam you select, the richer the base tune will be?
If your using a FiTech supplied distributor, might not need to check the distributor pickup compensation?
Once I got it running a bit, I made a duplicate tune file and set all the ignition timing to 30 degrees like a locked out distributor. I think there is a setting that will do the same thing, but I wanted to verfy through the timing tables.
Then double checked the ignition timing with a dial back timing light to make sure the engine was actually 30 degrees advanced. I checked at several RPMs and there was slight change in timing (I was using a lean burn distributor), so I made a change in the hand held for the dist pickup compensation. I don't recall the exact term, and re-checked the timing until it stayed at 30 degrees throughout the rpm range.
Once I had the compensation number, I loaded the original tune back and updated that tune with the new coil pickup compensation number

 

[6PKRTSE]

We install and dyno hundreds of engines every year with all of the so called bolt EFI kits (electronic carburetors). From Holley, MSD, FAST, and others including Fitech. Fitech's cheap, chinese electronics seem to be the worst. For my buddy's six pack kit, we threw everything provided electronics wise from Fitech in the trash and built all of our own harnesses with are our weatherpack connectors and store bought TPS, O2's and EGT's and used a laptop top to tune it. No issues since and he has been driving it for years now.

 

[Don selleck]

I agree^^^, I had the fitech 6 pack looks cool, super hard to tune. IAC must be below 10 with the linkage disconnected. I set mine like a gun scope sighting it in. twice as far initially then halfway back. finally got it running, started up great, ran pretty good never seemed to have the punch it should have, best thing you could do and save yourself alot of time throw it up on the shelf for wall art and put a carburetor or a Holley sniper set up on it, good luck.

 

[matthon]

I have the dual quad FiTech.
Everything is GM based, O2 is Bosch.

With the throttle body linkage hooked up, I set the IAC with the front tb, then secured the rear where it matched, aka wasn't pulling/pushing the front tb.
Checked the IAC #, repeat if necessary.

Make sure it has it's own clean power, power wires to distributor/coil are shielded, and everything is grounded.
I installed a ground hub next to the battery, and positive and ground hubs under the dash.

Lastly, call FiTech. They have been very helpful with any issue/question I have had.

I wish they would send as much documentation/information as possible with their efi, but it's easy to obtain what you need if you call.

If you have timing control, at least when I switched to it, MSD had virtually zero info included with their distributor, and there was even less, accurate, complete info online.