FlowKooler or Milodon water pumps

Heating, Cooling & AC

  1. RJRENTON

    RJRENTON FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Bigmanjbmopar..
    Not to belabor the point or be facious, the science is Thermodynamics. In addition to your stated conditions, can you be more specific re the following items: size of the radiator, its construction (copper or aluminum), number of fins per inch (air side), water pump sheave drive ratio (pump RPM vs crankshaft RPM), ideal average water pump RPM to deliver best volume. Necessary to try and determine flowing velocity in the engine and radiator.
    Your "mechanical" gauge is a vapor pressure type (likely) with bulb inserted in the coolant stream. When the bulb is heated by the coolant, the internal vapor expands driving the guage pointer higher. In essence it is a pressure gauge calibrated to read temperature. I would believe its readings compared to the dash temp gauge, which is a volt meter driven by a thermister immersed in the coolant, whose resistance changes with respect to temperature changes. If it original, its accuracy is marginal at best.
    As far as the thermostat goes...once its opening point is achieved, there is nothing more it can do....the radiator must be capable of handling the heat load presented. IF the coolant temps continue to incresse, several factors must be considered: its size, the circulating velocity and GPM, the ambient air temperature .... trying to cool hot coolant (200°F) with 100°F air is difficult. Its called the approach temperature and is a function of radiator surface area, coolant specific heat characteristics and air side volume and temperature. The greater the temperature difference the more heat is exchanged. Is your temperature readings (185° - 210°F) acceptable? My RS23V0A GTX exhibits similar readings under similar conditions and I'm OK with those readings. These may or may not be acceptable to you....only you can make the choice of what is acceptable to you. Just my opinion of course.
    Bob Renton
     
  2. Houle #382

    Houle #382 Well-Known Member

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    We have had some extremely hot 90 degree days with high humidity and mine never gets above 185 never ! Most of the time she's running around 175 then if I get into traffic she will creep up to 180/185 but as soon as I start moving she drops right back down I have the 22 inch direct fit Cold Case radiator 2 row 1 1/4 tubes with a modified 180 stat. Factory shroud with a 7 blade clutch fan. 10.5 to 1 compression. I'm running 70% distilled water 30 percent antifreeze, factory water pump and NO Electric fans don't need them. Timing is around 10 degrees initial and 35 total. When it's cooler out side low to mid 70's she won't even make it to 170 degrees.
     
  3. bigmanjbmopar

    bigmanjbmopar Newb with a view

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    Is your engine stock or modified?


     
  4. Houle #382

    Houle #382 Well-Known Member

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    Stock block, ported X heads, ported Edelbrock Performer RPM intake with a Edelbrock 650 AVS-2 carb, Hughes Engine cam kit 518 lift 224 duration
     
  5. bigmanjbmopar

    bigmanjbmopar Newb with a view

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    Well since this is all in experimentmode i think i will change the stat to a 180° i bought both 160 & 180 Mildon stats just for this reason. Could be the 160 is just too soon and the radiator is on the edge of not being able to handle it all.it will be 99 this weekend so more testing will be done first then swap stats.

    This engine does not like more than 200 for some reason it will struggle to restart



    So pretty much stock running what you have in a stock block Is fine.

    When you stroke out and bore is when the mods require a different approach i had a clutch fan and the stock 2 row with 3/4" tubes when i first did the engine swap and it wouldnt stay below 220. And the clutch fan put so much of a load it was ridiculous. From there we started with an aluminum rad then clutch fan and shroud no good then flex fan still no good on hot 90+ days so better pump and housing and we started to see 180 more then went with the twin electric fans and seemed ok but still would get to 230 on 100 days then switched to Evans coolant and was great until 100 days then the 230 temps again. Then distilled water and purple ice which is pretty good but then at idle we got to 225 and this is where we are at needed the flowkooler to keep the at idle temps down which it does well. Now to find that perfect balance i will switch back to a 180 stat but a high flow instead of a stock stant.
     
  6. Houle #382

    Houle #382 Well-Known Member

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    I purchased from Summit a FlowKooler Robertshaw High performance Stat. Summit # BRA-330-180 then I modified it by drilling 3- 3/16 holes equally spaced and this stat works perfect. I had a 160 degree stat and Chris from Cold Case said that wouldn't work and I had to go to at least a 180. Glad I did, as I stated as hot as it's been even sitting in traffic she just makes it up to 185 then drops right back down to 175 once I start moving.
     
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    • RJRENTON

      RJRENTON FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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