Flowkooler waterpump with 16 fins.... good choice ?

[lynchroad]

I remember reading somewhere that liquid flowing too fast through the rad doesn't get a chance to cool it down adequately.
Try the 8 blade as ma mopar engineered. Good luck.

I second that

 

[brasil]

... next Monday I will install a MA MOPAR pump... will keep you informed

Greetings Juergen


P.S should I go back to a "standart Thermostat " also ? 180°F Stock ...?? Now I have a Milodon HighflowThermostat installed

 

[62MAX]

I second that

The six blade A/C pump moves water slower than the eight blade.!!

 

[A383Wing]

only if you use it with non-ac pulleys....if you use the AC pump with AC pulleys, it is designed to move the water same speed as an eight blade pump turned slower by the correct pulleys. This is why you cannot swap pumps.

 

[brasil]

....I changed the pulleys because I took off the A/C ... but the difference is only marginal hmmm.... the pump that came with the car had 8 blades... but is is a A/C car... so a 6 blade pump is correct for an A/C car ..right ?

Greetings Juergen

 

[A383Wing]

6 blade smaller diameter pump with large crank pulley & small pump pulley for AC car

8 blade larger diameter pump with crank & pump pulley's about the same size for non-AC car

 

[brasil]

Today I checked my pulleys.... it looks like the one on the crank is a litte smaler than the pulley on the waterpump... the Ratio is 0.95: 1
looks like a NON A/C set up... I still have the A/C set up... with the bigger crank and the smaller Waterpump pulley.. but the 8 Blade waterpump I have has a 3.88 inch diameter impeller.. ( should be to small ?? ) The flowkooler pump is much bigger ( impeller diameter ) but this impeller has 16 blades... to much ?? Hopefully my brother will bring a better "choice " on Monday....

@ A 383 WIng... do you know the impeller diameter of those two waterpumps you discribed above ?? Could be very helpful for me...

 

[Dennis H]

Sorry if you have read my rant before. Here goes. Green coolant (only), 180 superstat from Napa, shroud, Copper (Ma knew), Mancin Billet Housing (overpriced, but it seals), 26 inch 4 row, clutch fan. I use Royal Purple Ice too. Get a digital laser temperature gun to, to be sure of actual temp. Good luck. I think the electric fans and alu-minium is bullshit. That's just my opinion. 210 is not out of control. Timing advice here is good, and I use a one inch spacer under the carb to help with the crap ethynol here. It vaporizes and reduces gas mileage.

 

[62MAX]

Sorry if you have read my rant before. Here goes. Green coolant (only), 180 superstat from Napa, shroud, Copper (Ma knew), Mancin Billet Housing (overpriced, but it seals), 26 inch 4 row, clutch fan. I use Royal Purple Ice too. Get a digital laser temperature gun to, to be sure of actual temp. Good luck. I think the electric fans and alu-minium is bullshit. That's just my opinion. 210 is not out of control. Timing advice here is good, and I use a one inch spacer under the carb to help with the crap ethynol here. It vaporizes and reduces gas mileage.

Common sense !!!!

 

[brasil]

Problem SOLVED !

I changed the pulleys....back to the OEM A/C set up..... 180 °F even after 15 minutes @ idle !! WOW ... I am happy now..

Greeings Juergen

 

[Budnicks]

Sorry if you have read my rant before. Here goes. Green coolant (only), 180 superstat from Napa, shroud, Copper (Ma knew), Mancin Billet Housing (overpriced, but it seals), 26 inch 4 row, clutch fan. I use Royal Purple Ice too. Get a digital laser temperature gun to, to be sure of actual temp. Good luck. I think the electric fans and alu-minium is bullshit. That's just my opinion. 210 is not out of control. Timing advice here is good, and I use a one inch spacer under the carb to help with the crap ethynol here. It vaporizes and reduces gas mileage.

LOL... Opinions will vary vastly I'm sure :iamwithstupid: , I don't agree 100% "but you along the correct lines IMHFO anyway", depends on what type of build it is, not every build falls into that Ma Knew category, many things that they did were because of the bean counters/accountants profit margins & trying to keep build costs down & then not always, "the best thing" for the cars...

- - - Updated - - -

Problem SOLVED !

I changed the pulleys....back to the OEM A/C set up..... 180 °F even after 15 minutes @ idle !! WOW ... I am happy now..

Greeings Juergen

Great to hear your happy & it's fixed...

 

[coloradodave]

P.S 2 when I rev the engine ...lets say up to 1200 rpm I can feel that the FANBLADE makes a lot of work..there is a significant flow infront of the radiator....... so we are back to the waterpump issue.... I think....

Did you mean the flow BEHIND the radiator (engine side)? Or the SUCTION in FRONT of the radiator (grill side)?
Since you had both an 8 blade and a 16 blade pump and the results didn't change, I think you can look elsewhere. As has been said, if the radiator cools well going down the road, then air movement through the radiator at idle/low speed is the problem. FIRST, just for giggles, put that Milodon thermostat in water and check the temperature of the water when the thermostat starts to open. I just returned the same thermostat to Summit (180*) that didn't start to open until 195-200* and then vacillated open/closed at over 200*. I would try removing the shroud and replacing your fan with a Mopar 7 blade fan with either a clutch or spacer so that it sits within an inch of the radiator core. Doubt whether getting rid of the overflow tank will solve the problem as cars have used this technology for a lot of years to expell air from the cooling system, thereby reducing corrosion to the internal parts. On my own car, the difference between a 17" 6 blade stainless flex fan and the 18" Mopar 7 blade fan was significant. Good luck and keep us in the loop.

 

[brasil]

....the Thermostat works welll it opens @180°F.. but the change back to the OEM Pulley SET UP made the big difference....
Right now I am using a 6 Blade 19,25 " race FAN ( fixed...but not the FLEX one... ) Temp. seems to be o.k. all way around 180-190 ° F
but the Fan makes alot of noise... so I will try to install a Flex a Lite 5555 Fan clutch ( ist the thermal one... HD Fan clutches are 0.3 " to high and don´t fit ... ) in combination with a 7 blade Fan out of .... a Chevy
I have a 6 Blade Flex a lite laying around ..and a 5 Blade Mopar Fan ( but this one is only 18 " wide )

Greetings Juergen

P.S @ coloradodave why should I get rid of my fan shroud ? Isn´t that part not a good choice ?

 

[Budnicks]

....
Greetings Juergen

P.S @ coloradodave why should I get rid of my fan shroud ? Isn´t that part not a good choice ?

I'm not sure why he said that... Maybe because the 18" fan won't fit, with the shroud intended for a 17" fan, IMHFO I would say keep the 17" size fan, but get a better one, that moves more cfm/air, better blade design & keep the shroud, it make sure the air is pulled thru the radiator core & not everywhere around it... Or get a shroud that fits the 18" fan, if you choose to go that route... Also make sure your hood seal to the rad./core-support seal is good seal too, so the air is forced thru the radiator instead of, all around it also.... good luck

 

[brasil]

my fan shroud has a 20 " opening.. currently I have a19" fixed fan installed... two hours ago I picked up a 18" 7 Blade Fan (clutch type ) from a Chevy... tomorrow I will give him a try....

Greetings Juergen

 

[Budnicks]

my fan shroud has a 20 " opening.. currently I have a19" fixed fan installed... two hours ago I picked up a 18" 7 Blade Fan (clutch type ) from a Chevy... tomorrow I will give him a try....

Greetings Juergen

Remember the fan grows in diameter as it's spun, the engine moves or torques to one side too, need some extra clearance there, some steel blades won't grow much thou... I didn't know the original fan shroud had that big of an 20" opening... That's good info to know...

 

[coloradodave]

Brasil: The reason I suggested that you take off the shroud was purely as a test. As you said, your fan was 1 1/2" from the radiator core and moving it closer with a spacer or clutch would set the fan INSIDE the shroud. Not a good option. If moving it closer had cured the problem, then you could have looked for a shallower shroud. As it is, the pulleys look to have solved your problem, so kudos to A383Wing for providing the possible solution. Don't you love it when all these ideas actually eventually produce the fix?

 

[brasil]

Hello Dave..

yes I love it, when things come together and work well !! The Idea from A383Wing was good.... but there is still one question in the room...

My brother bought a new waterpump a week ago in Phoenix AZ... From Duralast for a 440 BB with AIR and this pump has 8 Blades not 6 ! The "old one that was installed in my car... had 8 Blades too.. ( the car is from California.. Palm Desert ) seems to be a hot place
.. So I am wondering about the 8 blades...because A383 WIng said 6Blades is AIR 8 Blades NON AIR

Greetings Juergen

 

[62MAX]

The one size fits all is the reason most parts stores list one pump for both applications,6 blade cores aren't just out there anymore and 8 is what you get.Here it the 6/8 blade application ,last line if you can read uit.

View attachment 135779

 

[brasil]

....that is a very helpful book ! I have only the 1966 manual...unfortunatly the 440 is not covered only the 383.
Acccording to the book a 6 blade pump would be right... The Diameter is also bigger ( blades)... So I think the Flowkooler pump is a better choice than 8 (small ) blade replacement pump

Greeetings Juergen