Does the front end alignment need to be redone if you change your ride height with the torsion bars?
Front end alignment
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Technically yes. Ride height is the first setting in an alignment. How much are you changing it?
I'm thinking about 3 in. The Superstar springs raced the back about 5 in. Way too much rake for a four-door
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Pffft.
If you ask a certified Mopar tech, he always says yes.
If you mapped the alignment over the full range of travel, you'd see that unless your height changes a LOT, there isn't much difference.
I've adjusted the torsion bars in my Charger back and forth a bit and have noticed zero difference in how the car feels but this has always been between 3/4" to 1 1/4" of rise or fall.
Look at the chart above. The common A body steering knuckle has very little toe change with an inch from the ZERO mark. Caster gets better when you lower the car and camber gets more negative...two factors that are a good thing for handling and stability.
If you ask a certified Mopar tech, he always says yes.
If you mapped the alignment over the full range of travel, you'd see that unless your height changes a LOT, there isn't much difference.
I've adjusted the torsion bars in my Charger back and forth a bit and have noticed zero difference in how the car feels but this has always been between 3/4" to 1 1/4" of rise or fall.
Look at the chart above. The common A body steering knuckle has very little toe change with an inch from the ZERO mark. Caster gets better when you lower the car and camber gets more negative...two factors that are a good thing for handling and stability.
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Uhh....
Seriously....
Getting any caster once the front end is raised that high is impossible without aftermarket control arms. There isn't enough adjustment in the alignment cams to compensate for that much of a difference. Again, look at the chart above and see. The ZERO mark is static ride height. The negative numbers are dive/compression and the positive numbers are for rise/extension.
Something is way off then. You sure don't want to raise the front end 3 inches to make up for the weird rear end height.
Seriously....
Getting any caster once the front end is raised that high is impossible without aftermarket control arms. There isn't enough adjustment in the alignment cams to compensate for that much of a difference. Again, look at the chart above and see. The ZERO mark is static ride height. The negative numbers are dive/compression and the positive numbers are for rise/extension.
Is that an unusual amount of lift from Superstar springs?
That chart is that total toe or toe per side?
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Why would a chart only show one side? Every printout I've ever seen included total toe.
That chart was formulated by Bill O'Rielly, the guy that also built those "AlterK Tion coil over front end kits. He was asked by Mopar Muscle to map the alignment numbers for an article that was printed sometime before 2007. I have the reprint here. He made it a point to also chart the later knuckle used on the Aspen/Volare/LeBaron, all the 1976-89 RWD cars. The later unit, also known as the B spindle had far more toe gain and loss than the A unit. See below:
Too small to read?
The 73-76 A knuckle:
The later "B" unit:
*The B knuckle toe setting widens .127 of an inch as the front end rises 2 1/4".
*It narrows by .072 under full compression.
*It also goes almost 1.7 degrees NEGative camber in 2 1/4" compression but look at the odd curve during extension/rise...
That chart was formulated by Bill O'Rielly, the guy that also built those "AlterK Tion coil over front end kits. He was asked by Mopar Muscle to map the alignment numbers for an article that was printed sometime before 2007. I have the reprint here. He made it a point to also chart the later knuckle used on the Aspen/Volare/LeBaron, all the 1976-89 RWD cars. The later unit, also known as the B spindle had far more toe gain and loss than the A unit. See below:
Too small to read?
The 73-76 A knuckle:
The later "B" unit:
*The B knuckle toe setting widens .127 of an inch as the front end rises 2 1/4".
*It narrows by .072 under full compression.
*It also goes almost 1.7 degrees NEGative camber in 2 1/4" compression but look at the odd curve during extension/rise...
I'm a part timer at this stage of life , but do alignments everyday when at work. maybe some models are less effected than others but to make a general statement, ride height dramatically effects toe settings, even small amounts of height change.
Why I asked it, the top of the chart says spindle. Spindle as in singular.
Gus chiggins
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I guess you are using radial tires ? The old specs, are usually for bias ply tires. It's just me, but I would change out those springs, raising the rear five inches is a bit much, your car though, I won't tell anybody what to do with it, I'll suggest some things at the risk of fratricide
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Gus chiggins
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PurpleBeeper
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In my experience, yes, SS springs raise the back of the car A BUNCH if you use the stock location hole in the front shackles. If you use the other hole, the rear end of the car comes back down to normal BUT, your pinion angle is way off (nose up pinion) requiring you to replace the rear spring perches to correct the pinion angle
Initially the rear is 5” higher, but the springs will settle a bit over time.
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5" higher from what? I'd be working on getting the rear lower. The rake changes the front end alignment also.
What do you mean by replace the rear spring purchase? The front spring Mount is stocked so only has one bolt hole, are you talking aftermarket front mount?
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