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Front ride height, '70 Charger 500 318 a/c?

Triplegreen500

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I just finished a front end rebuild on my Charger. New bushings all around, greaseable lower control arm pivots, adjustable strut bars, upgraded 1.03" torsion bars. Survivor car, factory 318, 904, 14" wheels, 4 drums, factory air car. Curious what a good ride height would be for the front end? I put it on the ground (nothing went SNAP when I did - a good start!) and have it leveled up at 26" to the fender lip above the hub. Bounced it a couple times and it seems to be staying put. For now. Stance looks good, not a nose-dive (it still has stock rear springs and shocks). I didn't measure the rear...if it weren't so damned cold out I'd go do that...but looking at it, it has a slight nose-down stance right now but nothing major.

What are folks running for their fender lip height, out of curiosity? Or is there another measuring point I should use?

Also...how should one adjust the adjustable strut bars? Suspension at full droop? Ride height? I got the adjustables because I had one boogered stock bar, and it was easier to order the adjustables along with everything else from PST...but honestly I need to research how to adjust them, what adjustment accomplishes what as far as ride and handling, etc....

Right now I'm just glad it's back on the ground again. Been sidetracked by a couple motorcycle projects, so the poor thing was sitting on jackstands for a LONG time!
 
Scroll down to post number 4 for factory info. Ride height is a suspension/chassis measurement.
Fender lips and bumpers etc... are not a specification, they are for personal looks. You won't find those numbers in an alignment spec book.
What is your ride height?
 
This again?
Only a select few will take the time to do the factory method. Measuring from the body takes less than a minute to check all 4 wheel well heights.
I'll lay it out for you in clearer terms.....
I take measurements where I want to. I don't care what the factory did. The way that I do it is not to meet any factory number. It is done as a means of record for my own notes. See, later when I make changes, I can go back and quickly refer to what I wrote down so I can see if it raised or lowered the car. Weight reduction or gain, hit a pothole, whatever might affect it.
You think the fenders and aprons have shifted around so much that my subsequent measurements are pointless?
Wrong. I'm not driving a car that is worn out or rusted.
Measuring for comparative purposes is my motivation. If the fenders and aprons move any, it would be evident in the body gaps.
Yeah, some of the reason that I choose a ride height is for appearance but it is also for handling. A lower car will handle better as long as the suspension still has travel.
 
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