front suspension cross arm

[Canyon707]

I have my 68 roadrunner with a 511 and a pan that barly clears the cross arm that turns the wheels. I am not sure what it's called but, I wonder if there is a way to lower if from the pan. the reason is my diaper is tight, really tight. I could use another 1/2 inch of clearance. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

[mopar 3 B]

Big hammer

 

[bearman]

I know a couple of guys that added a 1/4 plate to each side of the motor mount. That will raise the engine up 1/2 inch on both sides. Just a thought

 

[Fran Blacker]

It called a drag link.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'm with 3B on this one....break out the "persuader". I think you can also add some drag-link to oil pan clearance by tightening the torsion bar springs & raising the front end of the car....but I vote for big hammer if you like your current ride height.

 

[Bill Monk]

I'm with 3B on this one....break out the "persuader". I think you can also add some drag-link to oil pan clearance by tightening the torsion bar springs & raising the front end of the car....but I vote for big hammer if you like your current ride height.

I would check your ride height, it might be as simple as cranking the torsion bars a little

 

[Canyon707]

I know a couple of guys that added a 1/4 plate to each side of the motor mount. That will raise the engine up 1/2 inch on both sides. Just a thought

 

[Canyon707]

good thought although I use a plate.

 

[451Mopar]

I don't think ride height will make a difference? The drag link is between the steering arm and idler arm on the K-member.
I don't know of a steering arm or idler arm with more drop that may work for clearance, but mess with the bump-steer of the suspension.
Using the plate to raise the engine may be the best option, or maybe a dry sump oiling system?

 

[wyrmrider]

not a drag link
DRAG link goes from steering box across to other side steering arm late cars do not have one- usually beam axle
the long rod cuts down on bump steer
moog calls a "center link"

 

[Canyon707]

not a drag link
DRAG link goes from steering box across to other side steering arm late cars do not have one- usually beam axle
the long rod cuts down on bump steer
moog calls a "center link"

I will contact them Monday thanks

 

[PurpleBeeper]

not a drag link
DRAG link goes from steering box across to other side steering arm late cars do not have one- usually beam axle
the long rod cuts down on bump steer
moog calls a "center link"

Gotcha.... center link, not drag link. I think I've used those words interchangeably (and wrong) for years.....like "engine" & "motor"

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I don't think ride height will make a difference? The drag link is between the steering arm and idler arm on the K-member.
I don't know of a steering arm or idler arm with more drop that may work for clearance, but mess with the bump-steer of the suspension.
Using the plate to raise the engine may be the best option, or maybe a dry sump oiling system?

You know, I think the ride height may help "a little". The torsion bars are connected to the lower control arms where the torsion bar adjustment bolt is & the chassis rides on the top of those bolts (sort of, if I'm thinking of this correctly). The idler arm/pitman arm/center link are connected to the chassis. The lower control arms don't move (basically) since they are held to the ground by the ground (via tire/wheel/lower ball joint/etc), so I'll call them basically in a fixed position.

When you crank on the torsion bar adjustment (ride height) bolts, you are forcing the chassis further away from the lower control arms (up)........wait a minute

OK, I'm wrong...... chassis goes up & center link goes up with it (via attachment at idler arm/pitman arm).... increasing ride height won't help center link/oil pan clearance since engine is ALSO attached to chassis.

So.....451mopar has the right idea....you need an idler arm/pitman arm combination that drops the center link down further OR move the oil pan up....like a dent or alter your elephant ear motor plates, or a different pan. Yep, 451mopar is right on with this one.

 

[mopar 3 B]

What pan are you using anyway that this is a problem?

 

[dvw]

Tightening the torsion bars doesn't move the center link away from the pan. The steering box and idler arm which locate the link are mounted to the K frame. Your motor is mounted on a plate. Fab 4 spacers that go between the K-frame and the front frame rails. Space the K-frame down. What ever thickness spacers you install will be the amount of clearance you gain. Check with the wheel straight and turned lock to lock. The center link height moves up/down throughout its travel.
Doug

 

[mopar 3 B]

Tightening the torsion bars doesn't move the center link away from the pan. The steering box and idler arm which locate the link are mounted to the K frame. Your motor is mounted on a plate. Fab 4 spacers that go between the K-frame and the front frame rails. Space the K-frame down. What ever thickness spacers you install will be the amount of clearance you gain. Check with the wheel straight and turned lock to lock. The center link height moves up/down throughout its travel.
Doug

What good will that do without spacers to raise the engine. Also lowering the k frame will mess up caster and camber faster than adjusting ride height.

 

[dvw]

What good will that do without spacers to raise the engine. Also lowering the k frame will mess up caster and camber faster than adjusting ride height.

Post #8 Quote; good thought although I use a plate.

I'm assuming with a plate the engine is not attached to the K-frame. This is a common practice. I've done the alignments myself afterward using spacers as thick as 1". In this case there is already clearance at the pan/centerlink. My bet is 1/4" spacer is plenty. This would effect the alignment very little. When using thick spacers if caster becomes an issue FMJ spindles can be used which are 3/8" taller.
Doug

 

[WileE]

Although technically not a drag link, people commonly refer to the center link as a drag link, difference is the idler arm connection/tie rods on a center link. NEVER bang,bend, or heat a center link, that will affect geometry & metallurgy. Adjusting ride height will make no difference, the related gap is between the link and the pan. Shim the mounts for a little clearance, as well as a slight bend on the pan. You can mark the pan where the link crosses, use a slightly larger diameter pipe to "curve" the pan upward SLIGHTLY (just a smooth bend, nothing drastic). Should give you a better gap. Been there, done that.

 

[Canyon707]

What pan are you using anyway that this is a problem?

7 quart the arm clears the pan but when I have the diaper on its really tighter than I want it to be

 

[Canyon707]

I spoke with a company called rareparts and they can build one. I would like to find this part to send it off to them if you know of anyone that might have one please let me know.