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Front Suspension Limiters

1stBxMopar

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Just took the front suspension limiters out from under my control arms, it increased travel from 1.5" to 4.5"
Hopefully this puts alot more weight transfer on the slicks at launch, what do ya think..LOL
 
Have you been back to the track since? and how much did it affect the launch? and 60ft
 
What's the setup on the car and what does it run? I tried limiters, ladder bar adjustments and chased my tail and all it needed was different front shocks. 90/10's were too loose and went with a 70/30
 
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Cool Chris.I never get my car that high.Wowzers man.It would be nice though

Cam, you dont win races going that high. i have tamed it down since. 1.28-1.29 60 foots now from 1.25-1.26 with crazy wheelies. much more manageable now.
 

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I'm just wondering how much of a difference another 3" of front travel will make, the front needed to be looser. Stock front with 90/10 calverts, ladder bars with strange single adjustable rears, ET 9.95-10.05 131MPH 60ft was 1.38-1.44 2850lbs. Really think this car should be 60ft at low 1.3s problem is not in the back, the front was way to tight, just wondering what the extra suspension travel will do without the limiters... anybody want to guess how much improvement before I go back to the track?
 
I'm just wondering how much of a difference another 3" of front travel will make, the front needed to be looser. Stock front with 90/10 calverts, ladder bars with strange single adjustable rears, ET 9.95-10.05 131MPH 60ft was 1.38-1.44 2850lbs. Really think this car should be 60ft at low 1.3s problem is not in the back, the front was way to tight, just wondering what the extra suspension travel will do without the limiters... anybody want to guess how much improvement before I go back to the track?

im betting 1.36-1.37 for ya 1st time out
are you using a transbrake and what do you have your rear shocks set at?
which track are you going to will be the determining facter also.
Mine change from island to lebanon valley drastically.
 

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I'm sure many of you probably already know this, but the limiters are to keep down unnecessary rearward & upwards movement to get the car moving forward or up & out of the beams quicker for less red-lights & quicker reaction times & 60ft times also... think about how much time & effort it takes to move the car "up before it moves forward", a suspension adjustment to get a better instant center of gravity or the proper bar angles (ladder bar or 4 link bar angles) or pinion angles is probably in order if you need to loosen the limiters too much to make weight transfer properly (or possibly just down on or not enough power or improperly tuned, need more gear, fuel shot, more converter or something) & "get the car moving forward, that's the ultimate goal" not up, unless it's just Super Stock leaf springs or other stock type of suspension applications... Slicks, sidewall design, air pressure & the proper compound for your style & weight of car, can also be a big difference in making the car work properly... It's about getting the proper wheel speed & traction with the best overall set up to get your car moving forward... I know there are many types & weights of cars & styles of suspensions to deal with, I just wanted to put that out there...
 
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Here is some old school info for you guys that should still be good today. As many of you know back in the day when both Dick Landy and Sox & Martin were factory sponsored racers they would put on car clinics at the local Dodge and Plymouth dealers in locations close to where they were racing at any given time. The factory sales rep would call these local dealers and ask if the dealership would like to have them and the dealerships would call their customers to attend.
These guys would freely give tips of how they modified their cars for better performance.

Landy was also interviewed by Hotrod Magazine back in the late 60s/early 70s in an article called "Blueprint for a Trick Chassis" here is what he had to say about some of the things you guys are discussing.

"We race Super Stock Dodges and it isn't necessary to do much to the chassis. If you try to do too much it hurts you E.T. Don't raise the front of the car, it should be left at stock height. The whole car should rise on take off not just the front end. Most of the adjustments to make the car rise are done on the rear springs but we do a few tricks to the front suspension to loosen it up. 6 cylinder torsion bars, Sway bar brackets are cut with a hacksaw to allowed to spread a little to relieve the clamp pressure on the rubber bushing and then weld them back together. It lets the rod turn easier so the front of the car comes up faster on take off.
When the front of the car drops after a burn out or when I have to get off of the throttle, the front end can bottom out, so we use the larger C body snubbers on the lower control arms.
We don't want the front of the car rising any more than the rear. Most wheelies are from jerking the front end into the air because the front suspension runs out of travel. That kind of wheelie is the worst thing you can do. It sends a shock load through the whole chassis and ruins traction. You want to PUSH the front end into the air not JERK it off the ground. Notice how long it takes for front end to come back to earth. When the front end is pushed into a wheelie it settles slowly with the front tires just brushing the strip, held up by the acceleration."
 
Cam, you dont win races going that high. i have tamed it down since. 1.28-1.29 60 foots now from 1.25-1.26 with crazy wheelies. much more manageable now.

Just out of curoisty,What are you launching at?And you must have a trans brake,Right?
 
Good post

Here is some old school info for you guys that should still be good today. As many of you know back in the day when both Dick Landy and Sox & Martin were factory sponsored racers they would put on car clinics at the local Dodge and Plymouth dealers in locations close to where they were racing at any given time. The factory sales rep would call these local dealers and ask if the dealership would like to have them and the dealerships would call their customers to attend.
These guys would freely give tips of how they modified their cars for better performance.

Landy was also interviewed by Hotrod Magazine back in the late 60s/early 70s in an article called "Blueprint for a Trick Chassis" here is what he had to say about some of the things you guys are discussing.

"We race Super Stock Dodges and it isn't necessary to do much to the chassis. If you try to do too much it hurts you E.T. Don't raise the front of the car, it should be left at stock height. The whole car should rise on take off not just the front end. Most of the adjustments to make the car rise are done on the rear springs but we do a few tricks to the front suspension to loosen it up. 6 cylinder torsion bars, Sway bar brackets are cut with a hacksaw to allowed to spread a little to relieve the clamp pressure on the rubber bushing and then weld them back together. It lets the rod turn easier so the front of the car comes up faster on take off.
When the front of the car drops after a burn out or when I have to get off of the throttle, the front end can bottom out, so we use the larger C body snubbers on the lower control arms.
We don't want the front of the car rising any more than the rear. Most wheelies are from jerking the front end into the air because the front suspension runs out of travel. That kind of wheelie is the worst thing you can do. It sends a shock load through the whole chassis and ruins traction. You want to PUSH the front end into the air not JERK it off the ground. Notice how long it takes for front end to come back to earth. When the front end is pushed into a wheelie it settles slowly with the front tires just brushing the strip, held up by the acceleration."

That's a cool old statement from an old trusted winning Racer that can still be applied to most leaf spring suspension cars today...
 
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Just out of curoisty,What are you launching at?And you must have a trans brake,Right?


no transbrake, only footbraking. leaving at 2500 rpms. both the 65 blue dodge and the 65 blue hemi belvedere make over 850 lbs. torque.
I come up on the converter just a little, then all hell breaks loose.:headbang:
 
No transbrake, footbraking to 2500 rpm, rear shocks set at 6
 
Hey Chris, just remember the only reason your 60' was better with the big wheelies is because the car was trppin the lights up and not out......
 
Worked good for me.60ft 1.55 quarter 10.67 at 127 mph.I'm happy with the set up

That sixty is a bit shy. To give you an idea my car in E/SA will go in the mid 10.50s and the sixty is about 1.38 - 1.40 . Youll never sixty with a stocker as our cars have lighter parts, but at that ET id guess you should sixty between 1.45 - 1.48 The best thing you can do to pick up ET at the 60 and 330 is buy some aluminum for the tranny.

Mark Lelchook
F/SA National Record holder
 
A lot of good info posted here. Wheelstands do unload the car when it comes back down. But they are cool and I love them. The best advice I ever got was from a local racer who had been around forever and had seen it all. He told me to "Listen" to my car and keep a record of very run and change I made. Make passes, only change a couple of things at a time so you don't get lost. Every car and every track is different. This old dude made a good living bracket racing.
 
I felt like I just went to school...Great info..I can't wait for the day when I get mine on the track and get to fool around with all the stuff I just read about this morning. Thanks for sharing guys. I am printing this stuff and hanging on to it for the future.. Moose
 
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