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Fuel filter keeps running dry, car stalls

When it runs dry at the filter, have you tried removing the gas cap and seeing if there is vacuum at the tank?
I agree, sounds like the engine runs until the fuel pump can no longer overcome the vacuum it is creating. Try running a vented cap or even a rag stuffed into the filler pipe in place of the cap or even no cap for that matter. If it doesn't stall out in the same amount of time, venting is your problem.
 
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First, thanks for all the input! Quite useful! This morning I cranked the car dead cold. Started fine. Fuel filter was flowing full. Once I got to Operating temp, filter started to drop. There was only about a table spoon left in it, but it ran fine (maybe that’s all it needs?). Maybe I’ll install a narrower filter?
Taking advice above, I disconnected the feed line and connected a hose into a gas can. Same flow. No improvement at all. So no issues with lines or tank to rear of car I guess. Checked vent lines by rotating them and fuel ran out.
Changes I made last night:
1. Changed timing from 5 initial/25 total (settings per electronic ignition conversion kit’s instructions) to 15/35 as it should be. Starting much easier now.
2. Added 1/4” thick rubber gasket under carb. Going to order a 1/2” wood spacer from summit later...
3. Replaced huge stock snorkel air cleaner to open 14” round type. Don’t what that did but figured more air maybe less heat around carb? Who knows. The huge snorkel would get really hot though!
4. Noticed that my dual feed 3/8” brass tee and 3/8” fuel lines were all laying on the hot intake so I went back to single feed, with line running along fender then over heater hoses to carb For less heat in line.

I let the car idle 30 minutes and temp never went over 180. Was running 195 yesterday. Cut car off and immediately started after. Wouldn’t do that yesterday. One start was all I got until it cooled and sat.

Observations: I installed the new air gap and carb in November (55 was the high here in Florida thru January).
My issues didn’t show up til temp was over 75 (should have been a hint, I know).

Will have to brave a test drive later. 8 year old and I had to be pushed out of a busy intersection yesterday. Scarred her for life ( me too a little ). Not cool or fun.

I am concerned about summer heat, vapor lock and fuel boiling. We’ll see.

I’ll be back if I die in another intersection.
 
usually vapor lock occurs when the fuel boils out of hot fuel lines on top of the cars motor or after the fuel enters the carb and it boils out, after a cars motor is shut down and sits with the hot motor. I would be checking the fuel pressure from the fuel pump to the carb!!! Do you have a vacuum gauge (if not borrow one), they usually have a fuel pressure tester at the bottom, check the picture I included at the bottom of the page. Connect it to the fuel line when your motor is cold and check it, then when it is hot (seeing that it happens when the motor gets hot) and crank the key for 20 seconds or so and see what the fuel pressure is. If it is low it could be the pump, but you said you replaced the pump, only other thing it could be is the sock on the fuel sender unit is bad or you have a bad gas cap or blocked vent line. Mechanical fuel pumps only make 5 or 6 Lbs of pressure unless you are using a high flow pump. It sounds like you have a problem between the gas tank and fuel pump as other guys have said.
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I agree with PP1RT,check for hose collapsing
internally.
Rubber type reinforced lines can deteriorate on
the inside & close up.
 
How do you tie in a return line at the pump/carb? Is it a fitting and where would it go?

My car has a fuel filter with 3 connections, the 3rd connector has a small orifice inside that allows air and a part of the excess fuel to return to tank.
There should be a return line connection on the fuel tank to hook up to.
I have the Carter pump (high volume) and that does not have any other connection for return.
 
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