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fuel gauge voltage limiter

You don't put it in the gauge, just on the back of the housing for all the gauges as shown. You only need to open up the fuel gauge if you need to repair the bimetal strip or other.
I know, but I have to open up the fuel gauge to disconnect the limiter inside the gauge, no?
 
https://www.rt-eng.com/images/e/e7/InternalLimiterFixUsingIVR3.pdf These instructions are saying to make sure the points for the limiter should be bent back ensuring they don't touch anymore. If you did this upgrade without having to do this, I think I will do it your way.
Also check your resistance of the fuel gauge to see if it is in working order. Should measure about 20 ohms. Even if you do get a good reading, the wire insulation could still be burned, but I would try this first before you take it apart.

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If you need your fuel gauge rebuilt, I know a guy that does this. Has the correct wire.
 
I have a new wiring harness for my 1966 charger. I am removing the instrument cluster to access the harness and clean things up. I have read that the fuel gauge has an internal voltage limiter that should be replaced. A solid-state limiter from RTE seems to be the best choice. To install the RTE limiter do you need to open the fuel gauge to disable the original limiter?
What’s the thing on the bottom? This is the fuel gauge for my 67 Charger.

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Yes.. You will need to open up the fuel gauge and disable the internal mechanical regulator. This video may be helpful..

This video is good. I checked my fuel gauge today. The oil and temp gauge are at 20 ohms. The fuel gauge is at 1 ohm. Its showing continuity, but not the 20 it should have.
 
This video is good. I checked my fuel gauge today. The oil and temp gauge are at 20 ohms. The fuel gauge is at 1 ohm. Its showing continuity, but not the 20 it should have.
Most likely needs a rebuild unless you can find a good one somewhere. I would have Todd do a rebuild.
 
I'm finding the RTE 3 limiter stops flashing when I hook it up to the 5-volt side of the fuel gauge.
There is a small LED that will flash when the limiter is operating properly. If the LED is off all the time, it may mean that one or more of the gauges is shorted to ground. The limiter is short circuit protected, and once the short is removed, then the limiter will resume operation. So I am guessing that your nichrome wire needs replacing.
 
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There is a small LED that will flash when the limiter is operating properly. If the LED is off all the time, it may mean that one or more of the gauges is shorted to ground. The limiter is short circuit protected, and once the short is removed, then the limiter will resume operation. So I am guessing that your nichrome wire needs replacing.
I found the problem. One of the studs for the gauge was grounding on the bezel. I was able to get the gauge to read full when I bench tested it.
 
Awesome, hopefully you will be one of the lucky ones with a working fuel gauge.
Looks like I might have traded my fuel gauge working for one of the headlight doors not working. I changed the headlight switch and was testing the headlights when one of the motors stopped working. :BangHead:
 
All part of the fun of our cars.
Yeah, I know. It goes with the hobby. 20 years ago, my daily driver was a 70 Charger. It was always breaking down for one thing or another. I would curse and scream I'm getting rid of this car, but as soon as I fixed it and it was up and running again, all was good. I had to change an electric fuel pump in the parking lot of where I worked at the time.
 
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