• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Fuel system update on 67 Coronet 440cid

Geoff2. Thanks for the fuel pressure vs float level chart. The AVS2 carbs have stock needle and seat, so I will be adjusting my PSI to the 5.5, adjust float level based on chart and go from there.

lewtot184...what did you use to create the 0.040" orifice in the 1/4" return line? Any pics of the insert?
1765285503160.png


Anyone have a preference for fuel sending unit mfg'r? I'm leaning towards Spectra. I'm going to drop the tank and get pickup and float adjusted best I can then compensate with the meter.
 
The fitting in right photo is combined with a 1/8"-1/4" pipe bushing that connects to the fuel log. 1/8" tubing is connected to the right photo fitting and from there connected to 1/4" return line. I used the factory pick up set up at the tank. Soldered a piece of 1/4" tubing in the pick up flange. Pretty simple. The .040" return orifice is a trail and error number; nothing wrote in stone.

I used a spare block with cam, fuel pump and push rod installed and drove the cam to do flow and pressure testing. Tested several pumps for pressure and timed free flow. Definitely not a scientific experiment but gave me a lot of info to run on. Keep it simple. Don't blow a bunch of money on this. Take a que from what the factory did.

20251209_105357.jpg


20251209_105148.jpg
 
So looks like you took the 1/4 compression fitting and soldered up the opening then drilled to taste.
Perfect! Thanks:thumbsup:
 
Something else i did was tie a pressure gauge on a windshield wiper arm and go out and do some test runs to verify my changes. Kinda hillbilly but it worked ...lol!
 
I had a different system
Electric Mallory 140 pump 1/2 inch line to the carb
but I got tired of the fuel gauge never reading right
So I redesigned everything
I went with a Tanks Inc. EFI Tank and in-tank fuel pump and the floatless sender
This system is so much quieter!
1/2 inch line to the regulator, 3/8 lines to the fuel log, 3/8 return line
(a bit of over kill perhaps but room to expand)
Advantages of this system were:
1: much quieter
2: working fuel gauge
3: improved filling (better tank vent)
4. better fit under car (no big pump mounted underneath)

This more than feeds my 500 HP 11 sec car

tank lines.jpg


IMG_20220128_131914588.jpg


DSC01025 (Large).JPG
 
lewtot184. For 1967 the only sending unit avail is 3/8 w/ no return, so I'll have to mod the sending for my 5/16 return.
I saw your photos showing the return. How did you attach it...brass fitting or solder tube to unit flange, and with large iron or bienzymatic?
1765373217406.png
 
lewtot184. For 1967 the only sending unit avail is 3/8 w/ no return, so I'll have to mod the sending for my 5/16 return.
I saw your photos showing the return. How did you attach it...brass fitting or solder tube to unit flange, and with large iron or bienzymatic?
View attachment 1960489
I put a hole in the sending unit a little smaller than the piece of 1/4" stainless steel tubing i intended to use. I swaged the hole out to fit the tubing and provide some flange area for the solder. I did use a small propane torch. My pick up used 5/16" tube and i replaced that with 3/8" stainless tube and soldered it in. You can use a bulk head fitting but you need to make sure it doesn't leak.

If it were me i'd leave the 3/8" tube in the pick up and run 3/8" tubing up to the mechanical pump.
 
I put a hole in the sending unit a little smaller than the piece of 1/4" stainless steel tubing i intended to use. I swaged the hole out to fit the tubing and provide some flange area for the solder. I did use a small propane torch. My pick up used 5/16" tube and i replaced that with 3/8" stainless tube and soldered it in. You can use a bulk head fitting but you need to make sure it doesn't leak.

If it were me i'd leave the 3/8" tube in the pick up and run 3/8" tubing up to the mechanical pump.
Ok that makes sense. I'm replacing the current 5/16" sender with 3/8", elec pump to new 3/8" line to fuel log, out thru orifice (size?) to 5/16" return line soldered to sender...no bulk head fitting if I can avoid it.
 
Last edited:
The fitting in right photo is combined with a 1/8"-1/4" pipe bushing that connects to the fuel log. 1/8" tubing is connected to the right photo fitting and from there connected to 1/4" return line. I used the factory pick up set up at the tank. Soldered a piece of 1/4" tubing in the pick up flange. Pretty simple. The .040" return orifice is a trail and error number; nothing wrote in stone.

I used a spare block with cam, fuel pump and push rod installed and drove the cam to do flow and pressure testing. Tested several pumps for pressure and timed free flow. Definitely not a scientific experiment but gave me a lot of info to run on. Keep it simple. Don't blow a bunch of money on this. Take a que from what the factory did.

View attachment 1960178

View attachment 1960179
Hi lewtot184,

After much debate, I decided to build a fuel rail similar to the one you built for the dual Edelbrocks on the CH28 manifold using my existing 5/16 line as a return with bleed. I was going to use AN fittings but turned out to be complicated to incorporate the bleed plus to many fittings.

One question I have is where did you get the chrome fuel rail with the correct spacing for the carb inlets?

Thanks,
Dave
1766577606818.png
 
Last edited:
Back
Top