full or partial rebuild

[ksurfer2]

Some history....last year I purchased a 69 RR with a 440 in it. From the markings on the block, it is a 73 motor. There is an aluminum edelbrock intake with a 6bbl set up on it. The car runs strong, compression tests show consistency between the cylinders at about 165 psi. I do not know the history of the motor or any of the specs. I would like to take the car to the strip eventually just to have some fun. My ultimate goal is to have the car in the mid to high 12's without nitrous, keeping the 6bbl and stock exhaust manifolds (I want to keep the car as stock appearing as possible). Current set up includes a torqueflight 727 and a dana 60 with 4.10 gears.

Is it feasible to do new aluminum heads and cam swap without touching the bottom end? This I could do over a weekend in my garage. Or am I better off just pulling the motor and having it rebuilt from the bottom up?

Ultimately, I would like to keep my budget under $10,000.

Advise and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[oldbee]

If you have no knowlege of last rebuild, then IMHO do the whole thing.

 

[Lets Roll]

IMHO. First I would take it to the strip with some slicks like it is and see where you are. You could always spray some time on if the motor is solid enough. Why tear down a strong motor? You know its not original why not build another 440 while you run this one. 440 blocks are pretty cheap here in Florida.

 

[zyzzyx]

Well, If ou decide to do heads, you need to look at the piston tops. This can be done through the spark plug hole
with a smart phone or tablet and a cheap E-bay endoscope. This will give you an Idea what's in there.
But the most H.P. gain with the heads are getting rid of the stock exhaust manifolds and going with a highly
rated set of headers. If you have 10k to spend, I'd take it apart in the fall and really know what you have!
get a pair of Trick-Flow 240's!

 

[BSB67]

Some history....last year I purchased a 69 RR with a 440 in it. From the markings on the block, it is a 73 motor. There is an aluminum edelbrock intake with a 6bbl set up on it. The car runs strong, compression tests show consistency between the cylinders at about 165 psi. I do not know the history of the motor or any of the specs. I would like to take the car to the strip eventually just to have some fun. My ultimate goal is to have the car in the mid to high 12's without nitrous, keeping the 6bbl and stock exhaust manifolds (I want to keep the car as stock appearing as possible). Current set up includes a torqueflight 727 and a dana 60 with 4.10 gears.

Is it feasible to do new aluminum heads and cam swap without touching the bottom end? This I could do over a weekend in my garage. Or am I better off just pulling the motor and having it rebuilt from the bottom up?

Ultimately, I would like to keep my budget under $10,000.

Advise and suggestions are greatly appreciated.View attachment 613146

I would suggest that you take what you have now to the track and see what you get. It could be high 12s now. If you know what it will do now, and have a specific target, the advice you get will be that much better.

A decent 440 short block (which it sounds like you might already have) good factory heads, in a B body on street tires can go high 12s with manifolds. You might not need to get into the short block at all.

 

[moper]

I agree with the others - first see what you really have with a track day. The 165psi tells me it might be bone stock, but just in case see what it will do. Next step is to see what's in it for a camshaft. Heads might be a step, but you have to know what you have first by either racing it, or taking it all apart. Racing's easier but less accurate...lol.

 

[ksurfer2]

i have thought about taking it to the track, but since I don't know the history of the engine, I am worried about the motor coming apart at the high rpm's it will see with the 4.10's. It feels like a strong motor, oil pressure is excellent, but the last thing I want to do is make a mess of the track and then come home on a flatbed. I do have an 1/8 mile track that is closer than the 1/4 mile track. I may go there and see what happens.

 

[wyrmrider]

check the vibration dampner and see if it's a 6 pack dampner (and crank and rods and pistons)
do some research
did 73 6 packs still have the 2.061 compression height (and heavy) "six pack pistons"
personally with even compression (group is 165 low for a 6 pack?)
go have some fun with what you have
post up your head casting number

I'd grab another block and build a stroker
why? much lighter pistons and rods it will rev
Yes you could swap heads if you keep the stock rockers and current pushrods (check and see if someone put roller rockers in and report)
setting up roller rockers and getting custom pushrods would kill your time frame
you have no idea if the cam has been changed and what the pistons really are (but if dampner is six pack then the rods have to be the heavy ones)
spend some time tuning your advance curve and the 6 pack (better now than later) no changes till you have a good grip on the tuning
get enough experience to be able to say where in your rpm range you need more torque
If you do a cam change it's best to check valve train geometry- don't just slam one in
But one of the first things to do is check your timing chain
you know- the coming home on the trailer syndrome
you can do a dial indicator lift check and do you have the HP springs with the dampner- all clues

you can always short shift it at the track-
let it shift automatically
does it have a reprogramming kit, trans cooler
all things to do b4 touching the motor
also get it to hook up, chassis braces, u joint hoops, pinion snubber
if you do U joints use genuine Dana Spicer (deep case hardened not electro BS)
6 packs had premium valves